omicron1792
5 year old buck +
Yep. You can tank mix it with no problem.
Don Higgins blend or CIR Switch
- Thread starter roymunson
- Start date
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
I had heard that too OMI.....but I asked a bit about this.....and "my expert" (Roger Sampson) told me to make a separate application. In my case it's not a big deal.....so that is the way I am going at present. .........but may dive deeper into the "logic" on applying in a mix.
You were right on another issue.....and seem to know your herbicides.....but.....I'm a bit like Ronald Regan. Trust....but verify. lol
omicron1792
5 year old buck +
Part of the fun.
Experts often have to say the most cautious of answers to cover themselves. I’m sure all herbicides would do better if applied individually.
That said, these two do fine combined.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
^ THIS is the type of information that persists in the "food plot media" and is easy to transfer this practice with the new RC Switch products and kill your efforts according to John Komp and Roger Samson (and a few others). The "old" ways of herbicide prepping your land for switch are changing with these faster germinating RC Switch Varieties.
No offense intended. ^That WAS the way to do it when using OTHER varieties of switch......not with newer varieties.
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I’m reading the same stuff Foggy is.
The RC sounds much easier to establish. No need to stratify like CIR. It germinates faster so if you can get to a point where you can get a warm soil temp, have smoked the cool season grasses the RC can be planted and comes out of the ground quicker. Set your drill up like you are planting alfalfa and let it rip in June July even august.
So if you can plant it much later than CIR and if you can do that and then get rain you are going to be in very good shape. They are talking about planting this in the summer and getting great results first year as long as you have soil moisture.
What gets guys in trouble is with CIR you often had to frost seed had all spring to spray because it just sat in the ground. The RC jumps as soon as you get moisture and soil temp. Like sweet corn maybe.
I have a south facing hillside that has some CIR in brome. I’m going to do a round of gly and simazyne and another round of gly and put down another 6# per acre of RC Bigrock. Not going to burn it unless I have to, going to try to drag my seeder right through it. At least thats the plan for right now.
The RC sounds much easier to establish. No need to stratify like CIR. It germinates faster so if you can get to a point where you can get a warm soil temp, have smoked the cool season grasses the RC can be planted and comes out of the ground quicker. Set your drill up like you are planting alfalfa and let it rip in June July even august.
So if you can plant it much later than CIR and if you can do that and then get rain you are going to be in very good shape. They are talking about planting this in the summer and getting great results first year as long as you have soil moisture.
What gets guys in trouble is with CIR you often had to frost seed had all spring to spray because it just sat in the ground. The RC jumps as soon as you get moisture and soil temp. Like sweet corn maybe.
I have a south facing hillside that has some CIR in brome. I’m going to do a round of gly and simazyne and another round of gly and put down another 6# per acre of RC Bigrock. Not going to burn it unless I have to, going to try to drag my seeder right through it. At least thats the plan for right now.
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Foggy47
5 year old buck +
I spent quite a bit of time on that very issue. I had read to apply simazine first....very early in Spring. <---....from what I now believe.....that may be a wasted effort.
I've come to beleive this is a better means for new ground: (when using RC Switch varieties)
1. Flail Mow the area to reduce the residue (and for me....to get a visual of where I will spray and drill my seeds)
2. Spray with a mix of glyphosate / 2-4D and NIS. (first green-up)
3. Two (or more) weeks later spray with Glyphosate again - Just before drilling the switch.
4. Drill RC Tecumseh Seeds
5. Apply Simazine soon after drilling.
Doing it this way provides longer protection from weeds emerging after you drill seed. May get another month of pre-emergent effects.
I've read about spot spraying and or mowing later during the first year....but I am not sure on a plan yet. May depend on what weeds come and what stage my switch is in at the time. Quinclorac (sp) needs more research.....but may be my friend.
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Foggy47
5 year old buck +
Was just doing some surfing to find the numbers of seeds per pound of the different RC switch varieties (four at this point). As such, I found my way onto the Deer Creek website as they sell RC Bigrock. They had a relatively long page written on how to establish switch......and this method is a case in point of showing the wrong way to plant RC Bigrock these days. Instead it is the old cave in rock practice or native sg methods. I find that kinda bad coming from a seed vendor.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
You can thank Omi for persisting on that issue with me....lol. Thanks Omi.
Just confirming the impressive growth of RC big rock in the first year. I first planted it two years ago on a spot that we had just leveled. So it was basically bare dirt. I hit it with gly just to get any straggler weeds and then drilled in June. By August, it was 4 feet tall. I was amazed. And pleased!
The next year, we did have some thistles we needed to handle, but pretty minor. Mowed half and spot-sprayed the rest
Last year, I planted too late (Late July, IIRC). We got no rain late summer, or I think it would have been fine. The seed that was drilled into last year’s clover came out fine (2ft tall). The seed we drilled into burned down brome was about 6” tall. I’ll see what early greenup looks like to decide if the CSGs are coming back to decide to treat or not.
Another forum that I’m on, a well respected habitat guy says he’s had success doing a burn down with Gly drilling and then an application of Duracor.
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The next year, we did have some thistles we needed to handle, but pretty minor. Mowed half and spot-sprayed the rest
Last year, I planted too late (Late July, IIRC). We got no rain late summer, or I think it would have been fine. The seed that was drilled into last year’s clover came out fine (2ft tall). The seed we drilled into burned down brome was about 6” tall. I’ll see what early greenup looks like to decide if the CSGs are coming back to decide to treat or not.
Another forum that I’m on, a well respected habitat guy says he’s had success doing a burn down with Gly drilling and then an application of Duracor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
A few years back....I learned that if I really wanted to kill established white clover dead.....then it's gonna take 2 qts of Glyphosate AND 2-4d to get the job done. Wait two weeks or more...and do a second dose of Glyphosate before planting takes care of any escapee's. Clover can be quite persistent on my property. The 2-4d seems to really help.
Tho I have wondered how clover and switch might co-operate when planted together. (I believe the perennial clover would win that fight). If so......then what about "pockets" of clover seeded into the established switch.....for the win??
Seems edge and bedding "pockets" all all the rage now.
Tho I have wondered how clover and switch might co-operate when planted together. (I believe the perennial clover would win that fight). If so......then what about "pockets" of clover seeded into the established switch.....for the win??
Seems edge and bedding "pockets" all all the rage now.
omicron1792
5 year old buck +
Once established it could be a win. But the switch gets so tall and thick the clover won’t thrive amongst it.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
Yeah....I agree on that. But, what about nuking (and / or mowing) some pockets in the switch after say year two when the switch is established......and then broadcast some clover in there (along with some forbs?) to make the clover pockets viable. Maybe just a 30 foot radius? Could be good bedding areas.
Wonder who may have tried something similar?
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T-Max
5 year old buck +
I checked with a guy on another forum who was mentioned earlier. He has probably planted more switch than most folks. He told me to mix simazine and gly and spray away for what it is worth.
Brian662
5 year old buck +
It really depends on a variety of factors. Images of the area or description on why it hasn't thickened up will help.
Very unlikely without great seed to soil contact you'd see any major improvement from that amount of seed. Think about a mature seed head on a switchgrass plant and how many seeds one head will produce annually...if the stand doesn't thicken up on its own, you'll have to help it in other ways than more seed most likely.
Mortenson
5 year old buck +
He's also the one who told me that although it's not the best strategy, it's not a bad strategy to frost seed the Big Rock. And considering I couldn't be happier with how it turned out, I'll be frost seeding more of it again this year. I bought my seed from him this year. Throw some biz to a guy who's generous with his time and info.I checked with a guy on another forum who was mentioned earlier. He has probably planted more switch than most folks. He told me to mix simazine and gly and spray away for what it is worth.
T-Max
5 year old buck +
It doesn't hurt that his prices are the lowest I have found...
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