Newbie help

Christopher3

Yearling... With promise
I am fairly new to yearly deer hunting and prior to 5 years ago I had hunted deer two, maybe three times in my early teens (in the late 70’s) and about a half dozen times from 2007 to 2016 in my early to mid-40’s. With that being said, I offer my apologies ahead of time for the length of this post but being new, I want to try and give as much possible pertinent information as possible to help with my questions although it may well be overkill. (I have watched so many videos and read so many articles, many having conflicting information that I now feel like I have mental constipation.)

5 Years ago, I was granted permission to hunt a friend’s 40-acre plot that was sitting idle just north of Lake Mille Lacs (MN) in the state forest. It is a land locked parcel consisting of a mix of high and low, and about 95% hardwoods with a smattering of scattered conifer. To the west of me is a 40-acre parcel along the road. They have a large building close to the road and each year they plant a 1-acre radish plot directly behind the building and my access trail/easement runs 10 acres long down along the southern edge of their property to mine. The same people own the 40-acre plot south of me and they use their parcels only for hunting. To my east is over 600 acres of state forest and north of me is another 80 acres of state forest. Off my Northwest corner where 4 parcels meet, there is an 80-acre parcel along the road that is about 40 acres of ag (usually alfalfa), 5 acres of yard and 35 acres of woods.

On my property there are two shallow creeks on the property ranging from 2 to 8 feet across and they run about 6 inches to a foot deep most of the year and about two plus feet after the winter thaw. The south creek runs from the Southeast side to the Southwest side where it turns north and dumps into a slew that continues to the Northwest corner where it opens back up. The north creek runs through the center and also dumps on the Northeast corner. Both come together in an upper beaver pond on my property (I killed the 4 beavers living in it last year and drained about 1/2 to2/3rds of the pond) and a lower beaver pond which is mostly on state land (and seems to still have 1 beaver).

About 100 yards across my 1st creek, there is a semi-bowled area within an inverted U shaped ridge line that is roughly about 200 yards long and ranges from about 30-60 feet wide that had obviously been logged at one time and was filled with a few lager trees and a lot of tiny stick like trees that you could hardly walk through, most were 1-3 inches in diameter and 6-12 feet tall. It has a short ridge line to the West that boarders the slew, as well as higher ridge lines to the North and to the East. It had 5 trails going to/through it when I found it. I thought it should be a good area and cleared out enough of the stick like trees to have shooting lanes and a way to drag a deer out should I get one and hung a ladder stand. The 2nd season I cleared out a little more and put in a 16’ enclosed tripod. By the 3rd season, I thought it would eventually make a good area for a food plot. I cleared out an area (all by hand with a chainsaw and pruning clippers) that was about 40 x 30 and tried planting a small plot of winter peas. They didn’t take (mostly due to my method of planting- the birds got all the peas), disappointed and not wanting to ruin my chances to hunt it, I spread out a bag of Imperial Whitetail Clover. It grew sparsely but I think that was mostly due to the amount of canopy still existing at that time. Season 4 I got it cleared to about 85-100 feet long and 35-40 feet wide. I bought a soil PH tester from Mossy Oak (thinking it was a good brand that sold good stuff- as it turns out it was junk and even in vinegar it still registers 6.5-7 PH – so I have yet to get a soil sample) and the clover was fuller but still somewhat spotty. Sadly, I had an accident and fell 40 feet and broke both my wrists and hands and did not get to hunt. Last year (season 5) I planted a seed blend from a local seed company close to me as it was far less expensive than the bags of food plot blends at the sporting goods stores. Its’ make up consisted of:

Dwarf Essex Rape seed 25%

Ladino Clover 20%

Medium Red Clover 20%

Vernal Alfalfa 15%

Frosty Berseem Clover 10%

Aslike Clover 5%

Forage Chicory 5%



It filled in most of the bare spots but I am pretty sure I overseeded and most of the rape didn’t seem to pop up but the clover and some of the alfalfa and chicory did. Since we welcomed a child in the middle of deer season, I only got to hunt opening weekend (and it was 70 degrees here in MN-so no luck). It has filled in rather nicely (see progression of pics) but still has a few bare spots where leaves had piled up and killed off the clover or prevented growth. I went up this spring and raked out all the leaves and removed the last of the fallen trees and when I checked my trail cameras, I had more pictures of deer last year than all the previous 5 seasons but didn’t seem to get as many deer in the clover in deer season from late fall or winter as I did in the spring to early fall but this may have been from my friend hunting there and continually walking all over the property and not sitting in a stand or blind rather than deer moving off the property. So, now to my questions.



  • Should I leave the clover alone this year as it is and see if it fills in even more on its own?
  • Should I rake the plot and get some more of the seed mix from the local seed company and broadcast some additional seed to fill it in even more?
  • Since I cannot lime until next spring when I will be able to use an ATV, should I spray it with some Antler King product like Plot Max, Jolt or Clover Fuel?
  • Should/can I add in some Winter Rye with the established clover in late August to early September to fill the small bare spots, adding some variety and possibly get more action in the late fall and winter?
  • With 40 acres, should I expand the size of my current food plot from its current size of roughly 85-100 long by 35-40 wide to about 200 feet long (next year) or leave it at its current size and add a few small kill plots instead (or both)?
  • Being it is mid-June and temps are in the 90’s (and we have officially entered drought conditions), should I chance mowing the clover now, wait until end of summer or can I just leave it?
  • Should I dig down farther and drain the beaver pond completely, then burn the old dam or leave it and make sure no new beaver move into it?
Any help would be really appreciated.
 

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Looks like you have too much shade over the plot so grow will be limited but right now that shade might be a blessing with this heat and drought we're going through. You need a bigger plot for the sake of getting enough light to grow something. Welcome to the forums. Best group of outdoorsman you'll find right here. Your clover came on strong until the leaves filled in the way it looks? Clover is great for deer and does awesome with some chicory mixed in with it 50/50 mix is pretty common but I seed about 3 to 1 chicory to clover so the plot lasts longer before the clover completely takes over the plot. Clover and chicory both like a little or a lot of abuse. really. I take my disc and lightly go through the clover and after that it seems to thrive! Food plotting is an addiction for many. What's wrong with that? trial and error and ask these guys a lot of questions.
 
For future reference maybe just one question at a time might get more responses and go ahead and search through the hundreds of pages of information already posted right here on this forum.
 
Like mentioned you need more sunlight. Let your clover go to seed this year and mow it off around the 20th of August.

Your idea of spreading winter rye is good. It will provide that late fall early winter food source your looking for. Cover the entire plot not just the bare spots.

Spread the seed before mowing off the clover this fall.

Let it go to seed the following year and cut it off. That should help the clover fill in nicely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks like you have too much shade over the plot so grow will be limited but right now that shade might be a blessing with this heat and drought we're going through. You need a bigger plot for the sake of getting enough light to grow something. Welcome to the forums. Best group of outdoorsman you'll find right here. Your clover came on strong until the leaves filled in the way it looks? Clover is great for deer and does awesome with some chicory mixed in with it 50/50 mix is pretty common but I seed about 3 to 1 chicory to clover so the plot lasts longer before the clover completely takes over the plot. Clover and chicory both like a little or a lot of abuse. really. I take my disc and lightly go through the clover and after that it seems to thrive! Food plotting is an addiction for many. What's wrong with that? trial and error and ask these guys a lot of questions.
Looks like you have too much shade over the plot so grow will be limited but right now that shade might be a blessing with this heat and drought we're going through. You need a bigger plot for the sake of getting enough light to grow something. Welcome to the forums. Best group of outdoorsman you'll find right here. Your clover came on strong until the leaves filled in the way it looks? Clover is great for deer and does awesome with some chicory mixed in with it 50/50 mix is pretty common but I seed about 3 to 1 chicory to clover so the plot lasts longer before the clover completely takes over the plot. Clover and chicory both like a little or a lot of abuse. really. I take my disc and lightly go through the clover and after that it seems to thrive! Food plotting is an addiction for many. What's wrong with that? trial and error and ask these guys a lot of questions.
Jasker007, thanks for the reply. The first 8 plot pictures with a lot of shade are progressions pictures of how it looked in the first two season I had it, the last with two shadows is how how it looks now. There are only two trees left in the plot area now that I intend to remove this year. Based solely on the last picture, do you think there is too much shade and that I need to take more of the trees at the edge out yet as well?

And I do apologize for the amount of questions. I started reading several of the other posts as well before I posted mine. Part of the issue is I feel I have read too much and am feeling confused and just wanted a little personal direction. Thanks again nd have a great weekend.
 
Like mentioned you need more sunlight. Let your clover go to seed this year and mow it off around the 20th of August.

Your idea of spreading winter rye is good. It will provide that late fall early winter food source your looking for. Cover the entire plot not just the bare spots.

Spread the seed before mowing off the clover this fall.

Let it go to seed the following year and cut it off. That should help the clover fill in nicely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
S.T. Fantastic, thank you for the reply. The first 8 plot pictures with a lot of shade are progressions pictures of how it looked in the first two season I had it, the last with two shadows is how how it looks now. There are only two trees left in the plot area now that I intend to remove this year but it seems to be in sun most of the day. Based solely on the last picture, do you think there is too much shade and that I need to take more of the trees at the edge out yet as well?

And thank you for confirming my want of adding Winter Rye. I did want to seed the entire plot and not just the bare spots. My want was to not only cover the the bare spots but to add to the mix of the entire plot and to its overall attractiveness this year. Have a great weekend.
 
I’d still feather the edges a bit. Maybe cut the taller trees down back about 10-15 yrds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jasker007, thanks for the reply. The first 8 plot pictures with a lot of shade are progressions pictures of how it looked in the first two season I had it, the last with two shadows is how how it looks now. There are only two trees left in the plot area now that I intend to remove this year. Based solely on the last picture, do you think there is too much shade and that I need to take more of the trees at the edge out yet as well?

And I do apologize for the amount of questions. I started reading several of the other posts as well before I posted mine. Part of the issue is I feel I have read too much and am feeling confused and just wanted a little personal direction. Thanks again nd have a great weekend.
Welcome!!!

Keep reading and dont be in a hurry

"Know thy Land" first and take your time

Your avatar says you are in Minnesota

I would pay attention to what works for the fellas on the forum in your ecoregion

bill
 
For future reference maybe just one question at a time might get more responses and go ahead and search through the hundreds of pages of information already posted right here on this forum.

Amen!
 
MAN I love to have your math and aging process
say in 1979 you were 13?(you said early teens in 70's so going as low on the TEEN yrs as I can and last yr of the 70's)
and now its 2021,
and your still in your 40's DARN that awesome!
as my math adds differently I guess!@
as it makes you in your 50's not 40's LOL

NO bash, here as it doesn;t matter at all, being honest,
so kinda of just joking here, but math is math!
I gather we wish maybe we were younger than we are at times!
 
You will know more as time goes on as far as how big of a plot you need. If you plant it and everything is wiped out and looking like a carpet 1" tall you need a bigger plot or a different planting. Some things that the deer like will require a few acres so they don't wipe it out(beans or peas). I'm not too far from you---i'm on the south side of mille lacs lake about 3 miles with 115 acres that also borders management land. For me clover and chicory is the backbone with winter rye getting broadcast over everything probably 3 out of 5 years. Rye gives the deer something green to eat after everything else is frozen out and brown. Oats and or winter peas are great in the fall but usually not doing much during rifle season but great during bow season. In the fall i try not to mow and just go for tonnage to last longer into the colder months.
 
When the oaks are dropping I see very few deer in my plots.
 
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A great source full of good logic for food plots can be found here. LICKCREEK was way ahead of his time and pioneered his own mix and shared his success with all of us. RIP. Follow his method and you will improve your deer health and your hunting property.
 
MAN I love to have your math and aging process
say in 1979 you were 13?(you said early teens in 70's so going as low on the TEEN yrs as I can and last yr of the 70's)
and now its 2021,,
and your still in your 40's DARN that awesome!
as my math adds differently I guess!@
as it makes you in your 50's not 40's LOL

NO bash, here as it doesn;t matter at all, being honest,
so kinda of just joking here, but math is math!
I gather we wish maybe we were younger than we are at times!

If I read his post correctly he said he was mid-40's in 2007-2016 when he last hunted.

But to your point, yes. I'd love to be 25 again. Then again I was speaking to a guy in his 70's last week and told him I was 51 and he told me he'd give $100,000 to be 51 again.
 
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I agree with some of the above, especially take things slow. Find out what the deer patterns are. Find where they are trailing, and when, which direction they are coming from.
Clover and winter rye you can’t go wrong, get a soil sample and amend the soil as needed. Remember you are doing food plots, not living off the land, so it won’t need to be perfect. After a few years, you can start experimenting with other crops to find out what the deer like.
If I was to do a 15 year rewind, I would not plant any apple trees in my food plots. Apple trees are nice, but they are a pain, and too many non productive years from them, and if you have bear, they are dicks to your apple trees.
 
If I was to do a 15 year rewind, I would not plant any apple trees in my food plots. Apple trees are nice, but they are a pain, and too many non productive years from them, and if you have bear, they are dicks to your apple trees.

Couldn't agree more. Went nuts with apples when I first bought my place in 2001. Between the borers, bears, and moose...apples are just way more of a pain than they are worth...at least in my neck of the woods.
 
IMO clover and rye are the key foodplot elements for those up north and small acreage. Even more so for those who struggle to get much more than a 1/4 to 1/2 an acre open to plant scattered about the property

In regards to a later comment on bears. Yup changed my views that do not want to plant any fruit or nut trees that tout being quick or early bearing types. Fancy hybrids or dwarfing rootstock that put out a crop in only a few years after planting are gonna be shredded at best or broke off and dead in most cases once they get on the bear radar. Kinda sucks to wait but better off having a tree get some size for 10 yrs before fruiting/acorns to being dead 5 or 6 yrs after planting and too small to survive the thrashing or trunk busted off. Glad my first ten years started off with no bears around but now they make annual pilgrimages during munchy prime time.
 
food plot 1.jpg

Your plot is similar to mine. I've had a really tough time establishing clover. I have a very thin topsoil layer and I think it gets too dry in the summertime. Last year I planted this with rye with some daikon radish mixed in. I was actually pretty happy with it. The radish produced very few bulbs which I was expecting but the tops got fairly big and rye will grow about anywhere you throw it.

This year I plan to do a mix of oats and rye and I got some purple top turnip from a local seed store that I'm going to mix in. My plot seems to actually grow better on the shaded side. I think because of the thin top soil that dries out easily.
 
"...but this may have been from my friend hunting there and continually walking all over the property and not sitting in a stand or blind rather than deer moving off the property...."

Until you take care of this, you don't even need a food plot.
 
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