Looking forward to it, thanks.
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First of all, I do think burning of NWSGs from time to time is a good thing. However, as you pointed out, it can be a tremendous job, and I would add that there is always an element of risk of the fire getting out of control. At my location, I’m not willing to take the risk.
The timing of the mowing is extremely critical for several reasons. It needs to be in the spring, but the window of opportunity is short. If you mow too late, you take the risk of killing fawns. You don’t want to mow too early, because the mowing helps to stun undesirable, cool season and woody plants growing in your NWSGs. You want them to be growing well and thriving before you knock the soup out of them. This also helps to open the canopy to give the NWSGs sunlight at just the right time when they want to start growing.
The timing would vary by areas of the country, but for me, sometime just before May 15 seems about right. By that time blackberry briers are flowering and have put out a lot of energy into the blooms. You won’t kill them by mowing, but you certainly stun them hard and keep them from fruiting that year.
Cool season grasses like Fescue and Orchard Grass are also growing well at that time. The seed head is forming but the seed are not viable. You set them back nicely by mowing then, and very soon your warm season NWSGs will be shooting out over the top of them and shading them very well before they can get tall again. The cool season grasses won’t die, but they stay in a state of despair because they never get to seed and stay shaded for a high percentage of the year.
After the mowing you just back off for a few days and let everything start growing. Don’t forget that now is also the perfect time to shoot coyotes just before fawn drop. You can see them well in the newly mowed fields, and it takes them a few days to adjust to the cover not being there.
After a few weeks, I like to take field glasses and watch the fields from a high location looking for things coming back that I don’t like (poke weeds, thistles, Ironweeds, sweetgum sprouts, etc.). You won’t hurt the NWSGs by driving in them when they are young, so I just drive my truck with 25 gallon sprayers in the back and do a drive by shooting of anything I want to get rid of. I mostly do this and have it done by June 15, but even after that, I might walk out in a field occasionally with a hand sprayer or a shovel if I see a thistle or something I couldn’t resist spraying.
I don’t have Johnson Grass and glad. It looks a lot like NWSGs but you can train yourself to spot it. Over the years I have spotted and killed an occasional plant. It heads out quicker than the other NWSGs so that is one way to watch for it. It also has a lighter color. My neighbors have it but the thick cedar fence rows keep the roots from coming on my place.
After a few years of this the job becomes less and less. Most nuisance plants begin to be less abundant. The one exception for me is blackberry. After 8 years of spot spraying I finally had to break down and boom spray them last year. It was an incredible success. They are gone this year, and I have the best NWSG stand yet. In the areas I killed the briers, there is a flush of good forbs such as Blackeyed Susan, Partridge Pea, Ticktreefoil, Tickseed Sunflower, ragweed, etc. coming back. There were also some pokeweeds, but I took about an hour and did a drive by shooting of them. They are so tall you can hit them in the tops and not hurt the other good stuff coming up below them. 24D will do the job and not hurt NWSGs. I’m not saying it got rid of the blackberry for good, but I do feel it will be a long time before I have to deal with them again.
This routine gives me a tall and thriving stand of NWSGs by the fall hunting season and helps to keep undesirable plants from taking over the fields.
I have also occasionally done some disking and spot spraying really early when NWSGs were dormant, but that is not something I do much. It is kind of like fine tuning a few spots.
One good thing is that most desirable forbs are late germinating, and the spring work that you do doesn’t hurt them at all. The spraying for blackberry last year had nearly zero effect on my Partridge Pea, BES, Ticktreefoil, ragweed, Bidens, etc…. All that stuff was strong after the spraying last year, and really strong this year.
Don’t mow NWSGs too close. A couple of poorly timed mowings too close can destroy a nice NWSG stand. I wouldn’t recommend going below 7 inches.
Mowing in the late fall is not a good idea. I do mow some shooting lanes but I keep the mower very high – maybe over a foot. I also alternate from year to year where the shooting lanes are. In the fall, the NWSGs are storing up nutrition for the winter. Mowing high doesn’t kill them, but it doesn’t do them any good.
I really like NWSGs and think they make great fall and winter cover, but they are no better than any other good tall cover. I love the beauty of them, and so far have been willing to do the work it takes to keep them going and healthy. Probably the greatest advantage of them is having good cover but still keeping the field a field. Trees are good cover too, but if trees get too big, you don’t have a field anymore.
I hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.