No turnip bulbs

[bueller]

That is why I like Vivant in the Mix. Big Leaves and you still get a nice white tuber the size of a big carrot for the deer to chew on.

I may have to give those a shot sometime.

 

[wiscwhip]

Some of the leaves look like the Pasja turnips I've ordered from Welters in the past. No bulb from these hybrids. I will not be planting them again. I like my bulbs, and plain ole PTT fit my preference the best.

This is what we found as well bueller. Even after trying many different brassicas from Appin to Barkant to Green Globe to T-Raptor and Vivant, I don't think I even remember all the different types we tried. We always went back to the old standby's of PPT's, DER, and GHR. That said, all the types we tried grew well enough and the deer devoured them all, so we figured why bother hunting down odd varieties when the cheap coop standby's did the same job.

 

[tooln]

Is your ground that low that it holds water or that compacted? Maybe radish's would help loosen the ground up for better drainage.

 

[BJE80]

Is your ground that low that it holds water or that compacted? Maybe radish's would help loosen the ground up for better drainage.

Its neither. Its the soils and very level topography. For miles around. I'm actually at the top of the gradual slope on our road where we don't need a culvert. Its just the thickest heaviest clay you can imagine where the water just doesn't go through it. The soil is not compacted and it doesn't really need loosening up. No wonder its all hay fields in our area.

 

[BJE80]

Do you know if they are fat clays (CH) or lean clays (CL) BJE? Do you know what the NRCS soil description is?

MaB

MaB—Magnor silt loam, 0 to 4 percent
slopes
This deep, nearly level and gently sloping,
somewhat poorly drained soil is in concave areas on
broad ground moraines. Most areas are irregular in
shape and range from about 20 to 2,500 acres in size.
Typically, the surface layer is very dark grayish
brown silt loam about 10 inches thick. The next layer is
about 14 inches thick. It is mottled. It is pale brown and
strong brown silt loam in the upper part and yellowish
red and pinkish gray sandy loam in the lower part. The
subsoil is yellowish red and reddish brown, mottled
sandy loam about 26 inches thick. The substratum to a
depth of about 60 inches is dark reddish brown
gravelly sandy loam. In some places the subsoil and
substratum are loam, sandy clay loam, or clay loam. In
other places the upper part of the soil is loam or sandy
loam. In some areas the slope is less than 1 or more
than 6 percent.
Included with this soil in mapping are small areas of
the poorly drained and very poorly drained Cable soils,
the moderately well drained Freeon soils, and the well
drained Amery soils. Cable soils are in drainageways
and depressions. Amery and Freeon soils are on the
convex tops and sides of knolls. Also included are
areas of Magnor soils that have cobbles and stones in
the surface layer, that have pockets or strata of gravel,
sand, or loamy sand in the substratum, or that have
bedrock at a depth of 40 to 60 inches. Included soils
make up about 5 to 15 percent of individual mapped
areas.
Permeability is moderate in the silty upper part of
this Magnor soil and extremely slow to slow in the
loamy subsoil and substratum. Surface runoff is
medium or slow. Available water capacity is moderate.
The organic matter content in the surface layer also is
moderate. During wet periods a seasonal high water
table is at a depth of 1 to 3 feet.
Many areas of this soil are used as cropland. Some
are used as woodland. A few are used for pasture.
This soil is suited to corn and small grain and to
grasses and legumes for rotational hay and pasture. If
this soil is cultivated, water erosion is a slight hazard.
Cover crops and conservation tillage practices, such
as chisel planting, that leave a protective amount of
crop residue on the surface help to prevent excessive
soil loss. Excess water also is a problem. It limits the
choice of crops or results in crop damage during most
years. The wetness also delays field preparation,
planting, or harvest. Land smoothing, surface drains,
and diversions help to remove this water.
This soil is suited to permanent pasture and
hayland. Proper stocking rates, pasture renovation,
rotational grazing, and timely deferment of grazing
help to keep the pasture in good condition.
This soil is suited to trees. Because of the wetness,
the trees should be planted by hand or machine on
prepared ridges. Planting vigorous nursery stock helps
to overcome seedling mortality. Harvesting is
frequently limited to periods when the soil is frozen.
Harvesting by clear-cut or area-selection methods
helps to prevent windthrow of the remaining trees.
Competing vegetation interferes with natural
regeneration following harvest. It can be controlled by
applying suitable herbicides or by mechanical removal.
This soil is suited to the development of openland
and woodland wildlife habitat. The vegetation that
provides food and cover can be planted or can
naturally regenerate.
Because of the wetness and the restricted
permeability, this soil is poorly suited to septic tank
absorption fields. In some areas the effluent can be
pumped to an absorption field in better suited soils
that are higher on the landscape.
Because of the wetness, this soil is poorly suited to
dwellings. Building dwellings without basements on fill
material, which raises the level of the site, and
constructing basements above the level of wetness
help to overcome this limitation. The wetness also can
be overcome by installing a subsurface drainage
system that has a dependable outlet, such as a gravity
outlet.
This soil is poorly suited to local roads and streets
because of the wetness and frost action. The wetness
can be overcome by using fill material to raise the
roadbed above the wetness level or lowering the
seasonal water table by installing a subsurface
drainage system. The potential for frost action can be
overcome by installing a subsurface drainage system
in the roadbed or by replacing the upper part of the
soil with coarse textured base material, such as sand
or gravel.
The land capability classification is IIe. The
woodland ordination symbol is 3W.

 

[BJE80]

During wet periods a seasonal high water
table is at a depth of 1 to 3 feet.

Excess water also is a problem. It limits the
choice of crops or results in crop damage during most
years. The wetness also delays field preparation,
planting, or harvest. Land smoothing, surface drains,
and diversions help to remove this water.


Because of the wetness and the restricted
permeability, this soil is poorly suited to septic tank
absorption fields.

Because of the wetness, this soil is poorly suited to
dwellings. Building dwellings without basements on fill
material, which raises the level of the site, and
constructing basements above the level of wetness
help to overcome this limitation. The wetness also can
be overcome by installing a subsurface drainage
system that has a dependable outlet, such as a gravity
outlet.

This soil is poorly suited to local roads and streets
because of the wetness and frost action



Notice a pattern for those of you that didn't want to read it all?

 

[dipper]

I planted same time and I have few bulbs, as well. Wayyyyy too early to worry, u know u gotta get some leaves before u get any bulb. Chill, it's fine

 

[BJE80]

Sounds like the exact opposite of the central sands. Neither are forgiving.

I believe with more sun with larger plots and ditching the plot in low areas I might be able to mitigate much of the risk.

 

[wiscwhip]

About 6" of composted manure on top of our sand and you might have had a fighting chance of making a difference.

 

[*Hawaii5joe*]

I think it's a little heavy on seed. I cut way back on what I typically put down and it sure makes a difference.

 

[dipper]

Badger, just step it out. If it's not square, subtract what isn't.
I plant my brassicas with an earth way spreader. If your not concerned you are seeding too light-you are seeding to heavy. If that makes sense.
I seem to get a lot of purslane move in, but brassicas shade them out because the purslane is short.

 

[Terrific_tom]

I use Google planimeter to measure my plots, usually pretty accurate. I still have a tendency to put down too much seed though :oops:

I also use Google planimeter and have found it works very well for odd shaped plots.

 

[tooln]

There are tons of apps that you can load to your phone to find the area of your plot. Just open the app, and walk the perimeter.

 

[BJE80]

There are tons of apps that you can load to your phone to find the area of your plot. Just open the app, and walk the perimeter.

do you need cell service for a lot of those? I don't get very good service at my land.

 

[BJE80]

Checked on the plots over the weekend and they looked much much better. They have a nice shade of dark green. Thank goodness it dried out. Problem is we got 2" of rain over the past few days so there will be standing water again.

This appears to be the turnips. Pretty typical what I saw. (SORRY UP UPSIDE DOWN)

Deer seem to like them. :)

 

[dipper]

Do u have pictures like that every day? Or how common are pics? I've got groups like that and if the plot isn't fenced, the deer just mow.

 

[BJE80]

Do u have pictures like that every day? Or how common are pics? I've got groups like that and if the plot isn't fenced, the deer just mow.

Cams just started picking up now. Seems they are in there 2 out of every 3 days. Usually for about 10 min and then they move on to head for the big Ag.

It was the same last year and the plots were fine. They don't hang around long and browse for long periods of time.

 

[bueller]

Nice looking brassicas. I know I asked before, but are you sure you didn't plant a forage type like pasja?

 

[dipper]

My brassicas plot that isn't fenced is only 2"s. Fenced stuff is 10".
My baby brothers a navy seal and he's gonna be around next week. He's never bow hunted but I have that crossbow, so I'm gonna bee if he can hit anything

 

[BJE80]

Nice looking brassicas. I know I asked before, but are you sure you didn't plant a forage type like pasja?

This is what I planted. I did not think the higher leaf would hurt my bulbs. As I said. Back to PTT for me. Oh well

BARKANT FORAGE TURNIPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $3.50
An improved variety of turnips that has a distinctive tankard
shaped bulb and high leaf to stem ratio. Barkant turnips are
an early maturing turnip that provide very high concentrations
of protein and yields in the leaf. 60-90 day maturity.