Multi-Species Cover Crop Plots In The North

farmlegend

Yearling... With promise
For the past two seasons, I have planted two plots, nine acres total, with multi-species cover crop blends, in Hillsdale County, Michigan. My mixes have 8-12 different seeds, and were all planted via no-till drill in the spring. Seeds included soybeans, sorghum, buckwheat, sunflowers, cowpeas, millet, sunn hemp, MR clover, oats, radishes, and a couple others. These plots were planted on what was quite degraded rowcrop ground that had the daylights tilled out of it for decades. My objective with these plots is to restore the dirt and to attract deer to them into November and December to facilitate volume doe harvest.

I’ve enjoyed growing these plots but have some questions going forward.

Much of what I have read about this subject suggests planting a spring plot, then terminating it and planting a fall plot, so as to enhance nutrient cycling.

Drawing on my 25 years of doing food plots on my farm, planting spring and fall cover crops on the same plots is problematic on my ground. For one thing, I am growing season constrained, averaging about 142 frost free days per year. For another, I have heavy dirt, and in most years cannot plant spring plots until early June. They’re just coming into their own in mid-August, which is generally the latest recommended planting date for peas, brassicas, etc., and I hate the idea of terminating my soybeans then, since they are a powerful late hunting season deer draw. For a third, recommended fall cover crop blends include species that my deer are not fond of, like rape, turnips, and winter peas (I have very fussy deer). Even seeds that do produce desirable fall/winter deer food (cereal grains) are best not planted until Labor Day, at the earliest, as they can get tall/stemmy/unpalatable if you have good September growing conditions.

Assuming my spring mix has adequate carbon-producing plants in it, to balance out the legumes – does anyone see a problem with one spring cover crop planting?

Another thing I should mention, before I forget – the most powerful late November and December deer draw I have is spring planted soybeans. And I want soybeans that produce abundant beans and pods, something that a lot of so-called “forage” soybeans don’t do. No need for the soys to be RR, since nothing else in the mix is.

Another thing – I’ve been “top dressing” chunks of my cover crop plots by broadcasting winter wheat in early September, and this has gotten utilized significantly by the deer.


Any discussion and comments are appreciated.
 
Read posts by @Foggy47 and @Wild Thing (and others) on this. That far north I would just plant one time a year and not do summer crop. Some plant some brassicas early then a month later seed rye and clover. Some will plant some sorghum and such for a little vertical cover but the growingdeertv double rotation just doesn’t seem to work up there.

Now me down south, I would have bare dirt from June-October without a summer crop. Ha
 
Read posts by @Foggy47 and @Wild Thing (and others) on this. That far north I would just plant one time a year and not do summer crop. Some plant some brassicas early then a month later seed rye and clover. Some will plant some sorghum and such for a little vertical cover but the growingdeertv double rotation just doesn’t seem to work up there.

Now me down south, I would have bare dirt from June-October without a summer crop. Ha
Thanks for the comment omicron.

My problem with the late planting is that I do want my deer to be attracted to the stuff. The only fall plots that work well for me for attracting deer are cereal grains, and they only work if I plant them into September - any earlier, and they lose their palatability, while September is too late to plant those green manure plants my deer have no interest in eating. I gots to have me soybeans in the mix, which means a May-June planting.
 
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Thanks for the comment omicron.

My problem with the late planting is that I do want my deer to be attracted to the stuff. The only fall plots that work well for me are cereal grains, and they only work if I plant them into September - any earlier, and they lose their palatability, while September is too late to plant those green manure plants my deer have no interest in eating. I gots to have me soybeans in the mix, which means a May-June planting.
Then plant soybeans in May-June with drill, then in September overseed with spreader with rye.

That said, have an open mind when asking questions IMO. If you read a lot here, you will see most of these scenarios have been tried over and over and over, and people post their results. Part of the fun is trying things on your own, I understand that. However, if you have what you want already picked out then asking the question is not always gonna give you the answers you want.

Welcome to the board!
 
I appreciate it and apologize if I gave the impression that I had this figured out. With this hobby, I don't, and I get surprised by something every darn year!

I do like the concept of lots of seeds, lots of different plants, lots of biomass, and have enjoyed playing with this the last two seasons. This past year, I seeded one of those nine acres with Greencover's Milpa mix, and that was awesome! Pumpkins, all kinds of gourds, melons, squash, okra, turnips, and literally dozens of other plants. Planning on doing some more Milpa next spring.
 
I appreciate it and apologize if I gave the impression that I had this figured out. With this hobby, I don't, and I get surprised by something every darn year!

I do like the concept of lots of seeds, lots of different plants, lots of biomass, and have enjoyed playing with this the last two seasons. This past year, I seeded one of those nine acres with Greencover's Milpa mix, and that was awesome! Pumpkins, all kinds of gourds, melons, squash, okra, turnips, and literally dozens of other plants. Planning on doing some more Milpa next spring.
I might be a little late to this conversation....so I am uncertain of Farmlegend's location. What I do for the "summer draw" is to keep considerable clover always going. In my area clover is as good as soybeans for summer food. What I have learned is that I need to terminate part of that clover in August in order to get some brassica to grow....then everything gets rye drilled or broadcast in late August / early September.

In spring the first thing to turn green is that rye.....and clover is just weeks behind. The deer around my area really are on that rye when spring breaks. I let the clover and rye grow into July before terminating the rye. It provides good fawning cover through June and the clover thrives with the rye too. Rinse and repeat.
 
You can split a field into pieces and rotate what you do.

Hedgerows also make deer more comfortsble during daylight too, if you split a large field up.

Dont need to use the drill. Csn btoadcast rye into soybeans. My brother in law hires pilots to air seed ihto his farmland.

Spread rye seoptember time, or in the spring.

Can do the sane with spring oats, red clover, even peas can be spread. Even one member used bird seed mix in their drill. Another member combined the drill with a roundup spayer in 1 pass.

I got heavy soil at my home. No way I can do the throw n mow more than 3 years. Learning this this year.
 
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I appreciate it and apologize if I gave the impression that I had this figured out. With this hobby, I don't, and I get surprised by something every darn year!

I do like the concept of lots of seeds, lots of different plants, lots of biomass, and have enjoyed playing with this the last two seasons. This past year, I seeded one of those nine acres with Greencover's Milpa mix, and that was awesome! Pumpkins, all kinds of gourds, melons, squash, okra, turnips, and literally dozens of other plants. Planning on doing some more Milpa next spring.
Dude. You didn’t do anything! We have all been where you are. Enjoy!
 
I might be a little late to this conversation....so I am uncertain of Farmlegend's location. What I do for the "summer draw" is to keep considerable clover always going. In my area clover is as good as soybeans for summer food. What I have learned is that I need to terminate part of that clover in August in order to get some brassica to grow....then everything gets rye drilled or broadcast in late August / early September.

In spring the first thing to turn green is that rye.....and clover is just weeks behind. The deer around my area really are on that rye when spring breaks. I let the clover and rye grow into July before terminating the rye. It provides good fawning cover through June and the clover thrives with the rye too. Rinse and repeat.
I'm in Hillsdale County, Michigan, right near where Ohio/Indiana/Michigan come together. My growing season is a good bit shorter than it is 60 miles east or 90 miles west of me. Clover is really my bread and butter plot, and I have it in several other locations on my farm. My fave is Alice White, which I get from Welter. Winter hardy, eaten by deer pretty much year round, and I've found it more competitive with those nasty coolseason grasses than ladino (which is also always hanging around in my clover patches); I like to sow a variety of clover seeds, including some alsike and medium red. Like to use Crimson as a companion to oats/peas planted in mid-August.
 
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I really like your blend. I agree with the one and done plot for the year. I think you've got some unique opportunity with the size of your plot operation. Here's a few things I'd consider for your mix:

*Add a short season squash or pumpkin to your mix. You can get some 85 day squash, and for not much money when thinking cost per acre. Here's 5lbs for $9/ac. Prolly get you around 10,000 seeds. Do your homework though. Make sure you get a variety that is small enough to go through your drill. Spend the money on heirloom, in the event you get lucky and get some volunteers the following year, you don't have to worry about the genetics degrading. High end curcubit output is 40,000 lbs/ac in a pure and intensely managed stand. If you get 5% of that, you'll have 18,000 pounds of squash out there, and it's an excellent late season draw in winter country. Just be sure to accidentally step on some to introduce them to it. 18,000 pounds would feed 42 deer for 60 days on squash alone.


*Beings you've got acres, I'd also add about 3 lbs/ac of a grazing corn. Grazing corn is dirt cheap. It's not a bin buster. The cobs are smaller and skinnier. The plants are also shorter and not like steel fence posts. You will still be able to see into it, you'll maybe only get 5-20 bushels per acre at that rate, but it'll round out your blend nicely and help pump carbon to your beans. But hey, if you have 90 bushels of corn on the cob in your 9 acres, that's gonna feed 42 deer for 16 days on corn alone.


*If you ain't got flax, get it. Prolly get that at a grocery store. 1 lb/ac is plenty. I keep a 50 lb bag at the cabin. If I'm ever spreading seed, I'm always adding flax. It never gets in the way.

*Japanese millet is another cheap one, and has actually been getting eaten before clover and cereals at my place. 1 lb/ac is also plenty in a blend.
 

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I have also stopped focusing on 2 full season crops. Too many variables for 2nd crop such as lack of rain. What i plant in the spring, will be my primary crop.

Why not over seed with WR (winter rye) in early Sept? Great fall draw, cold hardy, suppresses weeds, and will provide OM and early spring food following spring.
 
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You can split a field into pieces and rotate what you do.

This is what I would do. I would rotate yearly instead of twice yearly.

Take a field and divide it in two. On half of it, plant a blend. The blend should include crops to cycle various nutrients, as well as diverse root structures to improve the soil. This gives the plants a full year to cycle nutrients and produce biomass both above and below ground.

On the other half, plant your soybeans. Broadcast wheat or rye into the standing beans in September or whenever works best for you. This will give you a plot that already works for you and maximizes the food your deer prefer.

Then rotate the plantings the flowing year.
 
Love reading about your guys efforts and wish I could spend more time at the western Kentucky farm (from central Florida) working on my plots.

Finally talked my farmer into planting some of my upper plots, and was pleased with the results of his turnip plantings. The deer started working the turnip greens early, and are still going at them today.

However I have two potential plots (image below) in the flooding creek hardwood bottoms he won’t mess with. About 3 acres on a gas line, and another +/-2 acres under a big power line. They both “usually” flood multiple times a year. I’ve had limited success with Japanese millet and even got a small patch of Domain ”Mother Load“ to grow on a higher portion this (drier) year.

I drilled a little winter wheat last Sunday, even though I fully expect it to get flooded out before spring. The farmer was planting a partial cover crop on the growing acres, and offered me some left over seed, so I did it.

Is there anything you guys would recommend that could tolerate the flooding?

IMG_0399.jpeg
 
Alsike clover will tolerate wet areas. Not sure how many food crop plants would survive. I know duck hunters will plant corn and then flood the field. Millet is supposed to be able to grow in shallow water.
 
For me living "up north" a corn and bean rotation is a staple and will get planted every year. I do overseed my soybean plots with rye and clover in the fall. Double cropping is more than possible but options are limited.

I want to plant 100#/acre of buckwheat this spring into one of my plots. This past fall I planted a mix of winter peas, brassica, clover, sunflower, oats, and rye. My plan is to plant into the standing rye in early June. I may or may not crimp or chemically terminate the rye. I'd like to just sling the seed and walk away but fall planting would be problematic for me.

mid to late August will get the same mix I planted this past fall and overseeded with cereal late September. Not sure what others think about it but I consider that to be double cropping. My deer do like buckwheat so it isn't just a cover crop.
 
I really like your blend. I agree with the one and done plot for the year. I think you've got some unique opportunity with the size of your plot operation. Here's a few things I'd consider for your mix:

*Add a short season squash or pumpkin to your mix. You can get some 85 day squash, and for not much money when thinking cost per acre. Here's 5lbs for $9/ac. Prolly get you around 10,000 seeds. Do your homework though. Make sure you get a variety that is small enough to go through your drill. Spend the money on heirloom, in the event you get lucky and get some volunteers the following year, you don't have to worry about the genetics degrading. High end curcubit output is 40,000 lbs/ac in a pure and intensely managed stand. If you get 5% of that, you'll have 18,000 pounds of squash out there, and it's an excellent late season draw in winter country. Just be sure to accidentally step on some to introduce them to it. 18,000 pounds would feed 42 deer for 60 days on squash alone.


*Beings you've got acres, I'd also add about 3 lbs/ac of a grazing corn. Grazing corn is dirt cheap. It's not a bin buster. The cobs are smaller and skinnier. The plants are also shorter and not like steel fence posts. You will still be able to see into it, you'll maybe only get 5-20 bushels per acre at that rate, but it'll round out your blend nicely and help pump carbon to your beans. But hey, if you have 90 bushels of corn on the cob in your 9 acres, that's gonna feed 42 deer for 16 days on corn alone.


*If you ain't got flax, get it. Prolly get that at a grocery store. 1 lb/ac is plenty. I keep a 50 lb bag at the cabin. If I'm ever spreading seed, I'm always adding flax. It never gets in the way.

*Japanese millet is another cheap one, and has actually been getting eaten before clover and cereals at my place. 1 lb/ac is also plenty in a blend.
Will absolutely throw some flax and squash in there and look for some grazing corn. That's the cool thing about these kind of plots - the more the merrier! Thanks!
 
Alsike clover will tolerate wet areas. Not sure how many food crop plants would survive. I know duck hunters will plant corn and then flood the field. Millet is supposed to be able to grow in shallow water.
Cosign. Alsike clover tolerates seasonal wetness, and even flooding, better than any food plot plant I know. One small end of my cover crop zone is usually underwater until June, and it's loaded up alsike . Frostseeded it onto snow-covered ice. I always have a bag of it around for wet spots, throwing it into a broadcast mix with other clovers and whatever.
 
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