Multi-year mixed food plots?

Bowsnbucks

5 year old buck +
Has anyone out there established multi-year (duration) mixed food plots for deer? If so, what seed varieties did you use, and WHEN did you overseed newer varieties into established plot crops?

Seed mixes that grow well together & seed rates?? We know about clover with rye nurse crops.

Anything like crimson clover, radishes, rye, ladino clover, peas, - - - - that sort of mix. We're trying to establish a cost efficient, labor efficient plot .......... if that explains one of our goals at camp.

OPEN to any & all suggestions, seeding rates, etc.
 
I have a single 1.5 acre plot, which is also my fruit tree orchard. On a perennial basis it contains white clover(ladino), alfalfa, and red clover. I just broadcast crimson clover and buckwheat into it a week ago, and mowed everything down on top of it. August 1st I will broadcast winter rye, turnips, and radishes, and mow down over it.

I don't spray or try to terminate any crops. I don't have any equipment other than a lawn mower and a spreader. My plot doesn't look anywhere near perfect, but deer don't seem to care. The plot gets as much traffic as the soybean field across the road.

In early years I had infestations of ragweed, lambsquarter, pigweed, and marestail. I let them grow. Now, even with zillions of seeds of each, I can't find a single plant of any of them. I do have weeds, just ones that behave more like native wildflowers.

I've never used lime or chemical fertilizers. I have added mineral rock dust, and use my own homemade liquid fertilizer, which is made from weeds.

Very inexpensive and doesn't require much time. It will never be perfect, but works for me.
 
Has anyone out there established multi-year (duration) mixed food plots for deer? If so, what seed varieties did you use, and WHEN did you overseed newer varieties into established plot crops?

Seed mixes that grow well together & seed rates?? We know about clover with rye nurse crops.

Anything like crimson clover, radishes, rye, ladino clover, peas, - - - - that sort of mix. We're trying to establish a cost efficient, labor efficient plot .......... if that explains one of our goals at camp.

OPEN to any & all suggestions, seeding rates, etc.

Well, Crimson is an annual clover. It does act as a reseeding annual in my area but not every place. At most you get 2 years out of it. Radishes and most peas are annuals. Clover mixed with chicory can be a good perennial food plot. I've never used it but perennial peanuts may be an option in the south.

This is not a perennial mix, but you could use a variation of it to get some efficiency with planting once a year if it works in your area. We plant a mix of WR, CC, and PTT/GHR for fall. The WR is the early season attractant and PTT covers the late season with CC and GHR covering a broader time period in the season.

Now, we are trying to do QDM, so we are planting for our summer stress period. I'm planting Buckwheat and Sunn Hemp for that and they like warm soil so I'm just getting ready to plant. The winter rye covered the early spring and as it starts to become rank, the crimson clover takes off again in the spring to cover until I'm ready to plant.

If you are not planting for summer, you could just let the WR head out. In the north, where summer stress is not a big issue, the WR heads will provides some food value during the summer and with keep weeds at bay. If you wait until the seed heads are well ripe for your fall plant, you could seed CC/GHR/PTT again and then mow the WR for a volunteer crop.

If you wanted a little more coverage, you could replace the Crimson with Medium Red clover. It is a short-lived perennial. It provides more coverage than crimson for me. I use crimson because I replant for summer anyway.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Browns by “multi year mixed food plots” do you mean perennial plots or planting annuals in rotations, like spring and fall annual blends over multiple years?
 
Has anyone out there established multi-year (duration) mixed food plots for deer? If so, what seed varieties did you use, and WHEN did you overseed newer varieties into established plot crops?

Seed mixes that grow well together & seed rates?? We know about clover with rye nurse crops.

Anything like crimson clover, radishes, rye, ladino clover, peas, - - - - that sort of mix. We're trying to establish a cost efficient, labor efficient plot .......... if that explains one of our goals at camp.

OPEN to any & all suggestions, seeding rates, etc.
I know you need some info now. I'd also set aside some time to try to understand why things are done, when, and how to see the signs. The reason I say that, is that things don't often go as planned, and you've got to make some adjustments on the fly. I know you mentioned not having a farming background. That's not all bad. You don't have to un-learn anything. If you're a reader, I'd recommend getting Dale Stricklers book:


For the money, that is everything known in advanced regenerative agriculture up to about 2021, in a very easy to read style, with tons of pictures. The information is starting to consolidate and is coming from great writers like Dale. You'll catch up very quickly after reading that book. I sent Dale an email after I read it and told him he should be charging $200 for it, because it's an end to end degree in biological agronomy. Kids can spend four years at ag school and not learn what's all in that book.
 
I always have a plot of clover and chicory and can throw in oats or rye if you feel like it. Mowing is all I do to maintain it and if you rough up the ground a little in the spring the clover seems to thrive on the abuse but it's not something you have to do. Start off planting about 70% chicory and that gives you a few more years before the clover eventually takes the plot over. The two go together as good as anything I've ever tried.
 
Depending on your location and what you can get to over winter I would:

Plant a fall mix of: An awnless winter cereal (I like barley) mixed with a winter pea (at a fairly heavy rate). I would plant no more than 1# of tillage radishes and 1# of PTT. Then I would also plant a high quality white/red clover mix with a a heavy rate of chicory (I like Oasis).

The cereal and peas if left will be a deer magnet by mid summer. The deer will strip the mature grain heads and eat every last pea pod in about a weeks time once they reach the proper maturity. I would mow the plot off about two weeks ahead of your bow season and have a lush clover/chicory plot for bow season.
 
A perennial clover and in the fall broadcast wheat and some form of brassica. No need to complicate it.

As far as rates, 50-75lbs of wheat and just a pound or two of a brassica.

Good luck.
 
I know you need some info now. I'd also set aside some time to try to understand why things are done, when, and how to see the signs. The reason I say that, is that things don't often go as planned, and you've got to make some adjustments on the fly. I know you mentioned not having a farming background. That's not all bad. You don't have to un-learn anything. If you're a reader, I'd recommend getting Dale Stricklers book:


For the money, that is everything known in advanced regenerative agriculture up to about 2021, in a very easy to read style, with tons of pictures. The information is starting to consolidate and is coming from great writers like Dale. You'll catch up very quickly after reading that book. I sent Dale an email after I read it and told him he should be charging $200 for it, because it's an end to end degree in biological agronomy. Kids can spend four years at ag school and not learn what's all in that book.

Just downloaded to my Kindle from Amazon

Thanks,SD

bill
 
Browns by “multi year mixed food plots” do you mean perennial plots or planting annuals in rotations, like spring and fall annual blends over multiple years?
BOTH perennial and annual crops. I'm aware that some clovers are perennial and others are annual, or 2 to 3 year crops before fading out. I was wondering if a MIX of annual AND perennial crop seeds could be planted and annually overseeded in the fall - or spring - to keep year-round food available without having to spray & cultivate. I'm looking for such a plot mix / maintenance schedule to save labor & money on tractor gas, sprays, and maybe some fertilizer as well if managed wisely. It would be nice to build better soil health by NOT cultivating as much as we have in past years, so any advice on plot mixes that can be overseeded as annual crops fade out would be most helpful.

We have a plot of alfalfa and 2 varieties of red clover (Starfire & Marathon) as a multi-year plot that should last about 5 years, and a plot of perennial white clovers (Alice and Ladino) with some chicory that should last 5 years to 7 years if we keep the grasses sprayed in that one. I see pics and posts of guys on here that plant plots of mixed crops and varieties that they seem to keep "updating" with new overseedings / mowings / rollings. It would be great to have such a mixed plot that we can just keep overseeding into as the seasons dictate - such as rye, winter wheat, and brassicas in the fall - maybe some buckwheat or oats in the spring. If doing that can build better soil .......... and save cultivating time / gas .......... that would be a win-win.

Our camp is in northcentral Pa. mountains on an old farmstead, zone 5 & 6 border. 85 to 88 degrees summer high temps. - - - and minus 10 is about the coldest we ever see there.
Well, Crimson is an annual clover. It does act as a reseeding annual in my area but not every place. At most you get 2 years out of it. Radishes and most peas are annuals. Clover mixed with chicory can be a good perennial food plot. I've never used it but perennial peanuts may be an option in the south.

This is not a perennial mix, but you could use a variation of it to get some efficiency with planting once a year if it works in your area. We plant a mix of WR, CC, and PTT/GHR for fall. The WR is the early season attractant and PTT covers the late season with CC and GHR covering a broader time period in the season.

Now, we are trying to do QDM, so we are planting for our summer stress period. I'm planting Buckwheat and Sunn Hemp for that and they like warm soil so I'm just getting ready to plant. The winter rye covered the early spring and as it starts to become rank, the crimson clover takes off again in the spring to cover until I'm ready to plant.

If you are not planting for summer, you could just let the WR head out. In the north, where summer stress is not a big issue, the WR heads will provides some food value during the summer and with keep weeds at bay. If you wait until the seed heads are well ripe for your fall plant, you could seed CC/GHR/PTT again and then mow the WR for a volunteer crop.

If you wanted a little more coverage, you could replace the Crimson with Medium Red clover. It is a short-lived perennial. It provides more coverage than crimson for me. I use crimson because I replant for summer anyway.
Jack -

We planted crimson clover a few years ago and it didn't re-seed up here in the mountains. It grew great for that spring and summer, but it crapped out that winter. No crime - it added some N and OM to the soil. I'd plant CC again, but not expect it to re-seed itself. CC is a good plot addition, IMO.

I like your advice on letting the rye head-out, then seeding CC/GHR/PTT into it - then mowing it for a fall plot. The taller rye could be fawn cover for a while until we mow it.

What we don't know - as a group of members - is what crop varieties can be mixed that will "get along" and not smother each other, or out-compete the other varieties. Also - WHEN the best times / dates are to overseed variety "X" into established varieties "A, B, & C". I've done tons of reading online and in some publications - but often one source says plant "A, B, & C" in a mixed plot - and another source says don't plant "A with C", or seed "A" will drown out seed "C". So I wonder how to get the desired results without a failure - and wasting time and money on a plot.

To ALL - - -

Let me pose a situation to you guys - one that we'd very likely begin with.

We'd plant 2 varieties of red or white clover with a nurse crop of WR, and some chicory, from mid-August to Labor Day. This allows enough time for rye to get some growth so as to be a good food source by October and into winter. When would you gents mow the rye in the spring to release the clover?? How tall should we let the rye get?? How much clover seed, chicory, and rye in a 1-acre plot to get optimum results??

Assuming we mow the rye at some point, what crops could we over-seed into the clover / chicory the following August / Labor Day that would grow well with the clover & chicory??

What's a good seed mix with peas (AWP, iron clay peas, field peas) that give the peas some support to climb on??
 
For selecting crops, I like mixing grasses/grains and legumes. The former adds carbon to the soil and the latter adds nitrogen, the components of compost...OM. As for choosing specific crops within these categories it is more about seeding rates than which crops smother others. There may some other considerations like mixing a lattice crop like sorghum or corn with a climbing crop like climbing beans or peas, but those are secondary. Rates are going to vary based on soils, planting techniques, and such. Here is a good starting point for the mixes I've been using for fall.

Winter Rye 80-100 lbs/ac
Crimson Clover (or medium red in your case) 8-10 lbs/ac
Purple Top Turnips 1 lb/ac
Ground Hog Radish (daikon) 3 lbs/acre

All broadcast T&M rates. These work well for me. Keeping brassica light in a mix like this keeps it from dominating and shading out others. You don't have to worry about the WR or Clover being a problem for the turnips or GHR. You can mix other grains with this mix but keep the total grains at 80-100 lbs. I find it more efficient to just use WR and I get no real benefit from adding other grains here.

Personally, I keep perennial clover separate. It is much more efficient. You can mix it with Chicory (a low tannin content variety) if you like and of course use a nurse crop of WR when you plant it. Once established, I just mow perennial clover right before the season. It lasts many years.



Thanks,

Jack
 
I have a 10 year project I call the lunchables lawn. The parking lot and yard of my hunting camp has several clovers, plantain, crabgrass, dandelion, birds foot trefoil. It gets mowed 3-4 times a year. Lightly fertilized and lined each year too.

Saw your post about your mold board plow. If your soil is very low in organic material, or is shallow. I think there is benefit to building a few years of good soil and then turning it in. This moves the layer of good soil deeper. If you got decent looking soil 6 inches or so down, probably wont benefit.

Also, getting the soil ph good down to a deeper depth with lime is much faster by plowing it in.

I got places I food plot with 2 inches of good soil up top, then solid sand. Logging disturbs the ground,moves this layer around. Ruts get filled, other spots get washed away.

Taking your samples carefully cam be helpful. Also, spend 20 minutes digging up spots and seeing the soil. Stuff cam be quite different even at 20ft apart.
 
So I am in a similar boat as you because I want to start plotting without spraying 2-3 times a summer. I have a couple ideas I am going to try based a lot on what others have done here.

1) Establish a perennial clover/chicory plot and you can use various methods to incorporate fall blends of annuals (brassicas mid summer or rye and peas late summer). You can overseed the clover after stunting it's growth by mowing short, light gly application, or light tillage/discing. If you had a drill you could also drill the fall blend in, but I don't have that equipment. A friend of mine just tills strips in his clover then broadcasts a fall blend mixed with clover again and the clover will fill the strip back in next spring.

2) Plant a blend that includes heavy rate of rye in late summer. Example: Rye, peas, clovers, radish. The rye grows back and suppresses weeds during the summer. You can let the rye stand until you plant your fall mix again the next year (for me either brassicas mid summer or a rye blend again late summer). You can plant using throw and mow methods or potentially spraying and broadcasting if you need to terminate the plot. If you want a summer plot you just plant that earlier but you may need to spray to kill the rye in the spring. Or you can use a perennial clover planted with the rye and that will provide summer forage.
 
For a plot of grain rye, and you let it grow to the anthesis stage (pollen-bearing) - should over-seeding of radishes / turnips be done FIRST - BEFORE rolling the rye down - for better seed/soil contact & mulching/moisture retention purposes??
 
For a plot of grain rye, and you let it grow to the anthesis stage (pollen-bearing) - should over-seeding of radishes / turnips be done FIRST - BEFORE rolling the rye down - for better seed/soil contact & mulching/moisture retention purposes??

A complication is if you're not wanting the rye to go to seed.. probably have to terminate before planting your fall radish/turnip plot.

It seems like it would make sense for seed to soil contact to do it like you say but I would want radishes and turnips getting a jump and not competing with the reseeded rye and i could see rye seeded in July/early august not being overly palatable by hunting season.
 
A complication is if you're not wanting the rye to go to seed.. probably have to terminate before planting your fall radish/turnip plot.

It seems like it would make sense for seed to soil contact to do it like you say but I would want radishes and turnips getting a jump and not competing with the reseeded rye and i could see rye seeded in July/early august not being overly palatable by hunting season.
So spray the rye with gly first - then over-seed the radishes & turnips?? Or mow the rye down first??
 
So spray the rye with gly first - then over-seed the radishes & turnips?? Or mow the rye down first??
That's what makes sense to me as long as you don't have any issue with spraying.
 
So spray the rye with gly first - then over-seed the radishes & turnips?? Or mow the rye down first??

I've done it a number of ways. What I like is to broadcast my seed while WR is standing. I then hook up the cultipacker and knock down the WR. This lays the WR down pretty well for me. This approach puts the seed on the ground and then covers with WR. I will then spray (or not depending on the field). The WR laying down covers the seed well. If the cultipacker did not break the stalk of the WR, the herbicided kills it. The desiccating WR helps hold in moisture and sort of acts as a mulch. I've done this with both glyphosate and liberty with no discernable impact on germination rates.

If this happens to be a field that I'm not going to plant for summer and I'm planting for fall, the WR seed is mature and viable. In this case, I still broadcast my fall blend first. I'll then mow. I think mowing helps distribute the volunteer WR seed. I'll then cultipack. I rarely spray for a fall plant. In my area, summer weeds are competition for warm season annuals. I've been using buckwheat and Sunn hemp as my warm season annual mix and both compete well with weeds, but depending on conditions, I will spray to advantage them. For a fall plant, summer weeds are nearing the end of their growing cycle and typically are not a problem fo rme.

Best of luck,

Jack
 
Spraying keeps the weeds in control. Rye germinates very easily. Wheat and oats not as much. If you wants brassica to coexist, self reseeding may be difficult. Rye works great, but can choke out other stuff. Wheat might be a better choice if you want other crops to coexist year after year. Spring planted hairy vetch is something to look at. Winter peas is another good fall. Green cover sells about anything you can grow.

Looking back might be better than looking forward. Pre tractor days of maintaining hay fields.

Also, bang for buck and time, shrubs. Willows dogwoods crabapples.

A coworker only does fallow. Only mows once or twice a year. Every few years discs it up as soon as its dry enough in the spring. Deer gobble up what's in there. Try a spot.
 
Top