Shooting House Ideas before building

Thanks, I might have to give them a try. Are they the tinted ones or clear? I like the idea of a tinted window to conceal movement.
We remodeled an old shooting house that had garbage windows & put in deer view tinted. Very nice set up.

We are actually looking at camo window films for the backs of pickup trucks to cut & out & use on the outside of shooting house windows. Wonder if anyone else has tried that & has an opinion on how it works.
 
I agree 5x6 or 6x6 is big enough for 3 people and allows for 1 person to cover otherwise you will have a lot of blind spots. Make it octagon with corner vertical bow windows. Ours are modeled off of rednecks first we’re built using osb when it was cheap last we are using exterior plywood, I would go with plywood if doing now. We have deer view single hung hinge that are gray glass . If only doing a few would probably get their framed ones. We paint the inside black and honestly insulation adds a lot of cost a small heater will run you out of there as it is in uninsulated. Also use black fabric to cover back windows to prevent getting silhouetted. Just being out of the elements makes a huge difference. Also if building base use elevator brackets for 4x4 if that is what you are doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
8x8 bc we are together a lot of the times & will soon have grandkids coming with us. We also want to be able to have “sleep overs” in order to not be loud walking in with kids. Room for spotting scope set up to give them more to do as well.
We had windchills in single digits during landowner special season so we want to be prepared.

Windchill is non existent in the blinds I have hunted with my boys in the single digits and never even turned on the heater he is 6. You will be amazed how warm you are in them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I agree 5x6 or 6x6 is big enough for 3 people and allows for 1 person to cover otherwise you will have a lot of blind spots. Make it octagon with corner vertical bow windows. Ours are modeled off of rednecks first we’re built using osb when it was cheap last we are using exterior plywood, I would go with plywood if doing now. We have deer view single hung hinge that are gray glass . If only doing a few would probably get their framed ones. We paint the inside black and honestly insulation adds a lot of cost a small heater will run you out of there as it is in uninsulated. Also use black fabric to cover back windows to prevent getting silhouetted. Just being out of the elements makes a huge difference. Also if building base use elevator brackets for 4x4 if that is what you are doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Octagonal shape is definitely in the running stylistically size is approximate due to two 4x8 plywood sheets being an east size to build in from.
Have used the tinted deer view before, vertical bow & horizontal rifle & was very happy.
Like the blackout curtains behind to prevent silhouetting, thanks for that nugget! I am going to investigate more on the truck window films to cut glass glare & look for any shadowing but blackout curtains prob cheaper & easier.
 
Windchill is non existent in the blinds I have hunted with my boys in the single digits and never even turned on the heater he is 6. You will be amazed how warm you are in them.


Sent from my iPhone
I’ve hunted out of a few shooting houses but am usually spot & stalk, however this property needs a shooting house. None of the shooting houses I’ve been in are what I would consider comfortable. I’m not a princess but my time of hiking in 2 miles off trail end to bow hunt elk in the snow at 8500’ is behind me. Give me a little comfort & let my heater be 😂
 
If you are looking for windows, check out Deer View Windows. I have used them and they work well.

 
Can a box be made scentless? Maybe sealed up with a chimney that carries scent way up and above? I could honestly see a little fireplace in a blind working well in that a lot of people burn wood in the winter, smoke covers scent well, and it's a smell deer aren't inherently afraid of.
 
Can a box be made scentless? Maybe sealed up with a chimney that carries scent way up and above? I could honestly see a little fireplace in a blind working well in that a lot of people burn wood in the winter, smoke covers scent well, and it's a smell deer aren't inherently afraid of.

While smoke might not be inherently afraid of smoke, I'd be worried that smoke coming out of a chimney on rare occasions might signal something is up to the deer.
 
While smoke might not be inherently afraid of smoke, I'd be worried that smoke coming out of a chimney on rare occasions might signal something is up to the deer.
Very well may be true. I know guys that smoke their clothes and believe it is as good of a cover scent as you can get. They say it doesn't seem to matter that they smell like smoke in odd places and at odd times. I traditionally go as scent free as possible but have no illusions that my efforts are likely in vain. I've hunted box blinds in the past but mostly ground hunt with my bow so the box idea's aren't well thought out for me just yet.
 
Can a box be made scentless? Maybe sealed up with a chimney that carries scent way up and above? I could honestly see a little fireplace in a blind working well in that a lot of people burn wood in the winter, smoke covers scent well, and it's a smell deer aren't inherently afraid of.
I have always wanted to try a wood burner in a blind. Problem is I don't really hunt out of my blinds often enough to justify the effort. I think it would work great though. I've used fires with active rolling smoke to cover my scent before with success.
 
The concern I have with wood stoves is the lack of control of heat. I had an ice house with a wood stove, it sucked. You get there, its cold, you light it, it takes awhile, smoke billowing, all windows and doors open, once it is going, you are either hot, or cold, very little time spent with "ideal" temp. You add wood because you get cold, 30 minutes later, you turn the flue off, and have the windows open. Then when you leave, you have to worry about a hot wood stove burning when you arent there.

I use propane heat now when needed, the advantage, easily lit, easily able to adjust temp, and when you walk away, just shut it off. The downside is condensation with ventless heaters. Below 30 I usually have the heater on some setting between pilot light, and high depending on temp, and if the sun is out. Above 30, and no wind, no heat. I usually sit with at least 1 window open, depending on wind direction, and where I suspect the deer to come from. My deer are not trained to come in and leave on trails. They just wander aimlessly, coming from usually the least suspected area, but I try to guess.

I burn wood to heat my house, the wood boiler is about 75 yards from my apple orchard, trust me, deer dont mind smoke. Years ago when we would spend 10+ days hunting here with no electricity, or running water, we would have a camp fire at nights, and smoke our clothes, and ourselves to mask our scent. It seemed to work. We did still go into town and shower, but it was like every 3 days whether we needed it or not. lol
 
Thanks for the input guys. I honestly doubt I would use a box blind much as I really prefer to be on the ground with no obstructions to hearing, no line of sight blockages, the ability to move locations or do a stalk if needed, etc. I just feel stifled in a stand. BUT, it might be kind of nice to have one available on those rare occasions that it's really nasty out and my drive is a little low.
 
Jillbo, If you have osage on your property, depending on how tall you want your blind, you can use them for your base posts and cross beams. You'll save a bunch of money and will have a superior product. We just put up two this summer with osage and they are 10 and 11 feet tall at base.

Metal roof with overhang is a must

I recommend making awnings for each window as it keeps the sun from blasting through and keeps the inside dark. It also keep moisture from normal precipitation episodes from getting to windows, they are the weak spot in your wall for moisture leaks.

For the first time this year with a blind build we used vinyl windows we got off of craigslist or the equivalent. They really help make it air tight however no matter how careful you are they still make noise. I am going to make slider windows that will attach to the vinyl windows. These are virtually sound free. I'll be able to close the vinyl window when not hunting and this will help keep the windows a lot cleaner than my other sliders that are exposed to the elements all year.

Sliders can be made out of synthetic decking that has that middle side section cut out. This allows the plexi to slide effortlessly and quietly.

I'm in se NE and if your in the neighborhood after seasons are over I could show you the various blinds I've built and what works better than other ideas. I've reworked the original windows of first blinds I built to now be the synthetic deck sliding type with brush type window sealing strips.
 
If you are looking for windows, check out Deer View Windows. I have used them and they work well.

Yes I’ve used them before- great niche market & solid products.
 
Jillbo, If you have osage on your property, depending on how tall you want your blind, you can use them for your base posts and cross beams. You'll save a bunch of money and will have a superior product. We just put up two this summer with osage and they are 10 and 11 feet tall at base.

Metal roof with overhang is a must

I recommend making awnings for each window as it keeps the sun from blasting through and keeps the inside dark. It also keep moisture from normal precipitation episodes from getting to windows, they are the weak spot in your wall for moisture leaks.

For the first time this year with a blind build we used vinyl windows we got off of craigslist or the equivalent. They really help make it air tight however no matter how careful you are they still make noise. I am going to make slider windows that will attach to the vinyl windows. These are virtually sound free. I'll be able to close the vinyl window when not hunting and this will help keep the windows a lot cleaner than my other sliders that are exposed to the elements all year.

Sliders can be made out of synthetic decking that has that middle side section cut out. This allows the plexi to slide effortlessly and quietly.

I'm in se NE and if your in the neighborhood after seasons are over I could show you the various blinds I've built and what works better than other ideas. I've reworked the original windows of first blinds I built to now be the synthetic deck sliding type with brush type window sealing strips.
Willy- that would be awesome! We love the “double slider window” idea too.
Sadly, the few Osage we have, we won’t want to use, that’s a future propagation project.
My Mr was at Milford for building so he’s more “solid bones” & I’m more the “ special features” but we wanted some input bc these forums have been a plethora of great information & expertise on so many topics. We’ll hit you up come February & take you up on your offer. We are in Gage county.
 
Jillbo, that sounds great. I'm located in se cass county
 
Willy- that would be awesome! We love the “double slider window” idea too.
Sadly, the few Osage we have, we won’t want to use, that’s a future propagation project.
My Mr was at Milford for building so he’s more “solid bones” & I’m more the “ special features” but we wanted some input bc these forums have been a plethora of great information & expertise on so many topics. We’ll hit you up come February & take you up on your offer. We are in Gage county.
What's your osage project? I can get you as many seeds at you want. Have you ever heard of Che trees?
 
Just some things I have had concerns/issues with.

#1 - cover the outside in metal. Wood of any kind...even painted... gets chewed on here by the tree rats.
#2 - depending on how you make your roof. The gaps from corrugated metal against a flat surface can be filled with steel wool. This allows some air to escape, while not letting even small bugs in or being chewed by mice.
#3 - horizontal sliding windows. I use 24" tall x 48" wide horizontal sliding windows in my blinds for like $70 each. They seal fairly well, but if you get ice in the slide track that is outside - only one side of the window opens then. Also single pane glass will hold frost that you may have to contend with.
#4 - make lots of shelves. Gotta have place for your stuff and you don't want it to be narrow ledges or on the floor. Things fall or get kicked at the worst times and then the deer is standing there...staring at you!
#5 - silicone and expanding foam are your friends and can help makeup for any lack of carpentry skills you may have.
#6 - I personally prefer a trap door entrance vs a regular door. I feel the blind seals better and you get better overall visibility out of the blind. I also feel like I can get into the blind without the deer seeing me easier as I can use materials around the base to hide me.
#7 - build the blind in a "modular" fashion....so you can build the majority of it where everything is level and the like and THEN you can take it out and put the pieces together to the final install.
#8 - if possible - make it mobile. I have one on top of a gravity wagon. If I want to move it to a different spot for next year....I simply hook it to the truck and pull it where I want to go. I know some folks simply use a small trailer or even running gear from hay wagons as well.
#9 - don't go any higher than you really need to. These sort of blinds tend to stick out like a turd in a punch bowl as it is, but if you want to brush it in or have to work on it later....the extra height that you may not need works against you.
#10 carpeting - on the floor, on the walls, on the ceiling if you can figure out how....will all help deaden any noise in side and prevent that "echo" of a hollow box.
#11 - try to make all your handles, latches, and the like large - so you can operates them properly with gloves on. Nothing is more frustrating than being at the blind ready to enter and the stupid little latch wont open for you! You want something that you almost shouldn't need fingers to operate.
#12 - make provisions for drainage on landings and stairs. That rain or the like can freeze and make things difficult to say the least.
#13 - make doors enter inward....ever have a couple of inches of snow on the platform you are standing on and have the door have to open out towards you and plow all the snow out of the way in the process? It sucks!
 
I just spent several days at Deer Camp. "Condo 1" is 8 x 8 and is a wonderful space. Great windows and views. So far, four deer harvested in four days. Stand two is 6 x 6. It has "topper windows" and great steps and no-so step angles. Four deer out of that one as well. Here are some thoughts that might help.

Light tint on windows. I could not see in, but looking out was no problem, even in low light. Avoid dark tint.
Quality steps that are easy to climb should be a priority. A landing and handrails is really nice.
36" door that makes getting chairs and supplies in. The door should open out and not bang on anything.
Built in "red light" for early mornings.
The 20# propane tanks will operate the Buddy heaters for a full season. No issues with weather in the teens.
Windows that open on both ends or flip up are great. The "topper window" blind did not allow both sides of the windows to open, which was a real problem.
Storage shelfs, a gun rack and spent shell holders. This is a great way to memorialize harvested deer from year to year.

3A2F5D40-7322-4C69-B2EF-553D8722EBC1.jpeg
 
I want to build an elevated box but I want it to be more oriented to archery hunting. Anybody have recommendations for that. I was thinking more vertical openings and maybe an octagonal shape to be able to better shoot multiple directions.
 
Top