Shooting House Ideas before building

[yoderjac]

I want to build an elevated box but I want it to be more oriented to archery hunting. Anybody have recommendations for that. I was thinking more vertical openings and maybe an octagonal shape to be able to better shoot multiple directions.

I'm now using a crossbow, but when I was using my compound, I found you don' t really need vertical windows. All of my windows are just horizontal openings with solid push out shading. Keep in mind, heat is an issue for our archery season, rarely cold. My box blinds are built for upward draft with no insulation. For a compound bow, there are two keys to using horizontal windows, blind elevation, and window height. With the push out solid windows which are hinged on top, you can, with caution get close to the window. With the blind elevated, there is not a huge angle difference between a 15 and 30 yard shot. I find that even a 6x6 box blind is big enough that deer don't get too close. I really don't worry much about shots under 15 yards as that rarely occur. Windows high enough for a compound may be too high to comfortably sit and shoot a crossbow or firearm. I also but curtains inside my windows, I run PVC above and below the window and put in multiple sections of camo netting (duck blind stuff) around the upper and lower PVC so you can slide each section left and right. I leave gaps in between for shooting, but I like to hid behind the curtains. I typically sit slouched so I can't see out the windows. I have to straighten up to see out. I do this periodically to check things out. That way I don't have to control my movements when I'm below the windows.

I will say, I see more mature bucks in bow range from an open stand than I do from a box blind. They seem to skirt them at 40-60 yards and I don't find this with an open stand. I do shoot does regularly from my box blinds. I only have a few with windows the right height for a compound as that has become a diminishing concern.

There are some pick on the building something forum here with picks for ideas on construction.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[356]

PatinPA, I have a narrow crossbow that works great out of the regular vertical windows. You might give a later summer 30 yard burn around the blind a try.

 

[yoderjac]

PatinPA, I have a narrow crossbow that works great out of the regular vertical windows. You might give a later summer 30 yard burn around the blind a try.

To be clear, when I say horizontal windows, I'm talking about across the entire side of a blind. I think @PatinPA is more concerned with a compound bow where horizontal windows may not have enough room for very close to 30 yard shots. The problem with vertical bows is that unless you are close to the window, with the sighting plane well above the arrow path, it is each to hit a window seal. It is possible to design an elevated blind so that you can get close enough to the window that both the sighting plane and arrow path go out the window, but you really need to think about it as you design the stand. One trick is to build the platform first and then mock up windows with 2x4s and shoot through them before you construct the enclosure and put the windows in. That way you know both the sighting plane and arrow path make it out.

By the way, similar, but not as severe, issues can occur with a cross bow. I put a 3" screw in the bottom of my stirrup. (it is integrated into the brace and does not stick out). This lets me put the screw on the window shelf. Without it, the arrow can hit the shelf at some angles. I'm actually considering putting a shelf inside and slightly higher so I can rest the crossbow inside the blind and not hit the window shelf. I'm still contemplating this approach.

 

[TenPoint]

I would use a bunch of vertical windows if it’s strictly a vertical bow blind. Otherwise make it like a 6x6 red neck with horizontal on the sides and vertical in the corners. No need to over complicate it.

 

[Booner21]

I would use a bunch of vertical windows if it’s strictly a vertical bow blind. Otherwise make it like a 6x6 red neck with horizontal on the sides and vertical in the corners. No need to over complicate it.

I agree look at the redneck 5x6 design if you elevate it at all trust me you will want the vertices. It also allows you to stand and shoot vs sitting if you prefer.


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[Jillbo]

What's your osage project? I can get you as many seeds at you want. Have you ever heard of Che trees?

Not much of a project, but I do want to try collect some hedge apples & harvest the seeds to grow our own. I haven’t heard of Che trees but googled & they sound interesting but prob would need to be well protected in our locale. Do you grow your own?

 

[buckdeer1]

Isn't that the truth cat,Kansas has a few hedge apples.You can make a mash out of soaking them and plant or quarter them and plant,they did both back when they got tax breaks to plant them for wind control from what I was told by old timers.I like theoriginaldeerblindwindows.com windows.

 

[Catscratch]

Not much of a project, but I do want to try collect some hedge apples & harvest the seeds to grow our own. I haven’t heard of Che trees but googled & they sound interesting but prob would need to be well protected in our locale. Do you grow your own?

Well if you ever need seed let me or buckdeer know. Shouldn't be a problem!
I like the Che a lot. So do the deer! Of all the apple, crab, pears, oak, etc that I've planted the only tree that deer will push a cage over for is Che. They love to browse it. I like the berries pretty well. My plan was since Che is grafted to Osage roots to get a few purchased trees started then use them to convert a bunch of my native osage into che. Suppose I should get started on learning how to graft at some point...

 

[Catscratch]

Isn't that the truth cat,Kansas has a few hedge apples.You can make a mash out of soaking them and plant or quarter them and plant,they did both back when they got tax breaks to plant them for wind control from what I was told by old timers.I like theoriginaldeerblindwindows.com windows.

I've spread them just by throwing hedge apples in places I wanted some quick brush. Pretty easy to give a handful of kids a bunch of them in the area you want trees and walk away. Won't be 10 minutes before they've thrown those apples all over the place. Never made the slurry but have read about it.

 

[OakSeeds]

I used only bolts and screws to put mine together; everything sits on a steel frame that doesn't give an inch. You definitely want 3/4 inch treated plywood for the floor; I used Thompson water seal for the underneath side and covered it with aluminum coil stock. On a couple of houses we have used 7/16, 4 x 8 Zip system OSB wall sheathing for exterior walls. It's good stuff and reasonable.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Huber-7-16-In-4-Ft-x-8-Ft-Zip-OSB-Wall-Sheathing-777198/202089190
2 coats of oil based paint and it should be good to go for 10-12 years. Find guys who hang vinyl siding and they can give you enough scraps to side it (lots of browns and greens or greys now days).
Paint tip .... go to local Sherwin Williams and ask about mis-matched paint; they usually have plenty. Ask for dark color and have them load it with black. At $5 / gallon it's a steal.
The houses have a steel roof with a 30-year membrane under it. House will be standing long after I am gone.
Attached are some photos showing construction phases.

 

[j-bird]

Comfy seats are a must for a day long nap....I mean hunt. These are passenger seats out of a semi-truck. Lumbar support, the one has arm rests....nice and comfy! We just mount them on a small base with larger rubber caster wheels to roll around the blind.


And if you really want to have people look at you funny.....put that blind on wheels! This one we built on top of a gravity cart. I can pull it into different locations with my truck. A little- top heavy but not too bad. My son calls it "the battle wagon" because of the dark green paint! If you don't need as much height you can set the floor down into the wagon as well. The long up-right had an american flag on it for a long time....because "merica!" The boards to the ground serve as a stabilizer and they do a real good job as well. We do pick it up off the ground and put it on blocks so we don't have to worry about flat tires and the like knocking it off level. You can see where the tree rats are trying to eat it along the bottom edge.... If I ever get tossed out of the house...I don't have to go far!

 

[Jillbo]

Well if you ever need seed let me or buckdeer know. Shouldn't be a problem!
I like the Che a lot. So do the deer! Of all the apple, crab, pears, oak, etc that I've planted the only tree that deer will push a cage over for is Che. They love to browse it. I like the berries pretty well. My plan was since Che is grafted to Osage roots to get a few purchased trees started then use them to convert a bunch of my native osage into che. Suppose I should get started on learning how to graft at some point...

Che is now in our plan! Thanks Catscratch for the info!

 

[Jillbo]

To be clear, when I say horizontal windows, I'm talking about across the entire side of a blind. I think @PatinPA is more concerned with a compound bow where horizontal windows may not have enough room for very close to 30 yard shots. The problem with vertical bows is that unless you are close to the window, with the sighting plane well above the arrow path, it is each to hit a window seal. It is possible to design an elevated blind so that you can get close enough to the window that both the sighting plane and arrow path go out the window, but you really need to think about it as you design the stand. One trick is to build the platform first and then mock up windows with 2x4s and shoot through them before you construct the enclosure and put the windows in. That way you know both the sighting plane and arrow path make it out.

By the way, similar, but not as severe, issues can occur with a cross bow. I put a 3" screw in the bottom of my stirrup. (it is integrated into the brace and does not stick out). This lets me put the screw on the window shelf. Without it, the arrow can hit the shelf at some angles. I'm actually considering putting a shelf inside and slightly higher so I can rest the crossbow inside the blind and not hit the window shelf. I'm still contemplating this approach.

Good ideas! Was going to also bring my range finder up on a ladder before we start building to check angles & distances for our compounds as well as sight-lines for rifles. (with shoulder issue, crossbow might be in the future-excellent idea with the 3" screw)

 

[Gravel Road]

Well if you ever need seed let me or buckdeer know. Shouldn't be a problem!
I like the Che a lot. So do the deer! Of all the apple, crab, pears, oak, etc that I've planted the only tree that deer will push a cage over for is Che. They love to browse it. I like the berries pretty well. My plan was since Che is grafted to Osage roots to get a few purchased trees started then use them to convert a bunch of my native osage into che. Suppose I should get started on learning how to graft at some point...

I need to get off my butt and get some Che. I love grafting pears onto invasive callery, so Che to Hedge shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the reminder!!

 

[Fair oak]

I built a small hexagon box blind. I’ve sat in square blinds and couldn’t stand the blind spots. There’s very little blind spots in the hexagon shape. Like I said, mine is small. 4’ x 5’ approximately. Comfortable for 1 person hunting with a rifle or crossbow but tricky drawing a bow back. Could easily make one bigger though.

 

[bigboreblr]

Find what your going to sit on before you build. IT's a small enclosure, you rarely need to insulate much. However, buy a sheet of foam board or two and insulate the floor. Your feet will get cold. Put it undeneath and cover with a layer of plywood to keep critters out. Buy a couple foot long piece of pipe and make a roof vent in you expect deer to be close. Even not, your scent will go over the deer heads if you end up upwind of the field your overlooking.

Make a small ground blind in the general area and brush up your trail going there. I also make a blind for my ATV. Somewhere you can park it with a brush pile around you.

 

[willy]

Jillbo,

I was bored a bit this morning so I looked at deer blind build ideas for my upcoming build and found this. It may be what youre looking for. It's looking like end of Feb or early march will be time to take a look at blinds.

 

[Victor Van Meter]

I know elevated blinds are all the rage now, but they don't have to be.
If elevated, I would also recommend vertical windows.
Also if elevated, no matter how much you think it weighs or how little of a chance you think it will be blown over, you must anchor it to the ground. I learned the hard way. I still have no idea when or how the wind blew hard enough to blow mine over, it went over none-the-less.

 

[buckdeer1]

I like The original deer blind windows brand windows as they have glass.The ones with the other material ripped out in mine

 

[Tree Spud]

I like The original deer blind windows brand windows as they have glass.The ones with the other material ripped out in mine

I have them in blinds for past 1 years and they have held up well.