Killing Brush Before Corn and Beans

[MilkweedManiac]

The ground is finally dry enough to brush hog around here and I'm trying to get a plan together.

My goal is to plant on NEW ground this spring. Problem is, it hasn't been prepped yet, so I realize that puts me at a disadvantage. Ideally this would have been done in the previous fall, I realize.

I have cut down tons of invasive Autumn Olive to ground level and brushed Tordon on the stumps.

However, there is much blackberry and MF Rose that is about to be brush hogged and I know it will be doing it's best to come back to life throughout the summer.

Here is what I plan to do, and I'd love some feedback on any mistakes I may be making as I am new to this process -

Brush hog all of the weeds and brush

Allow minor regrowth

Spray with Glyphosate 41 and 2,4-D

Use a no-till drill to plant 1 acre of soybeans

Use a seeder to plant 1.5 acres of corn


Is there a (safe to use prior to crop planting) brush killer herbicide I can spike the Gly and 2,4-d with that will help with the woody stem issues?

Thanks.

 

[yoderjac]

My personal guess is that you are too aggressive. If it were me, I'd spend a couple years controlling brush before trying to plant row crops. 24D has a ground residual effect. I would consider waiting a couple weeks after spraying the 24D and then plant buckwheat. I'd plant a cover crop with a Winter Rye base for fall. I'd then reevaluate the field next spring and see if it is ready for row crops. When I hear "stumps" I'm a little leery using a no-till drill. I'd probably surface broadcast. Each place is different, but I'd consider this.

By the way, I'm told that deer love autumn olive when it is young. I know a guy that once removing the major bushes, just bushhogs a couple times a year. They autumn olive keep popping up from seed and the deer love it. He makes sure he bushhogs it before it can produce berries. They are the big danger. Birds love them and poop them everywhere. I certainly would not plant autumn olive, but his approach for controlling it seems beneficial to deer and eventually the seed bank will be exhausted.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[FarmerDan]

I'm with Jack. My opinion is your plan will probably fail. Glyphosate and 2,4-D are good for control of plants with shallow root systems. The vegetation you are wanting to kill has had years to establish vigorous and extensive root systems. The plant you see above the soil is but a fraction of the total plant system. It's doubtful you can get enough herbicide into the plant...and on the ground...to eliminate what you are trying to eradicate AND still allow for adequate growth of corn and soybeans. Should you wish to pursue chemical control strategy the two herbicides you selected are questionable for optimum results.

 

[MilkweedManiac]

Kind of what I was thinking...I was actually going to drill Cave In Rock Switchgrass where MOST of the MF Rose and Blackberries used to be...but given the slow nature of Switch that seems like another pipe dream. Thanks guys, I will think it through a bit further.

 

[Tree Spud]

I agree with the above on being too aggressive. I have a similar area and the 1st year sprayed blackberries & brush with a heavy dilution of brush-b-gone. In the fall I bush hogged everything to the ground. Then over seeded with with red clover and WR for a fall plot. This spring sprouts came up from the blackberries that needs to to be resprayed.

What you are dealing with is root systems that can re sprout & a seed bank that regenerate. Be patient and try and spend at least 2 growing cycles to kill the woody stuff. Brush-b-gone on foilage is good and Tordon or Garlon 4/diesel on stumps of larger stumps should work.

 

[Rit]

Just curious and sorry if I missed it but did you do any type of soil test? Corn and beans are rather expensive to use if you aren’t sure what you are planting into. Very good advice above If you spend a few years dealing with the seed bank and building soil I think you will be much happier in the long run.

 

[MilkweedManiac]

Just curious and sorry if I missed it but did you do any type of soil test? Corn and beans are rather expensive to use if you aren’t sure what you are planting into. Very good advice above If you spend a few years dealing with the seed bank and building soil I think you will be much happier in the long run.

Yes, for sure. Soil analysis came back great with about a 6.3 pH and instructions on what/quantity to add for both corn and beans. I just hadn't considered the long-term need to break the new sod into planting shape. I won't say the ground is completely invaded with briars, etc., but it is substantially thick and probably too tall of an order to move successfully right into crop without transitioning at least one season first.

 

[yoderjac]

Yes, for sure. Soil analysis came back great with about a 6.3 pH and instructions on what/quantity to add for both corn and beans. I just hadn't considered the long-term need to break the new sod into planting shape. I won't say the ground is completely invaded with briars, etc., but it is substantially thick and probably too tall of an order to move successfully right into crop without transitioning at least one season first.

You can definitely transition directly to many deer food crops. They will actually help with keeping down weeds. Avoid tillage as much as possible. Crops like buckwheat in the spring and WR in the fall can be planted without tillage.

Thanks,

Jack