batch 30 , or 12 hours will help. the less times the Cell has to transmit in a day the more battery you will save. Max default is 30 images , anytime the que reaches 30 it will send.Are there optimal settings for CC Rate, Batch, etc. to get the most battery life without booster packs? I have tried to go back through all the threads and look for this info. Currently have the Dual Cell K and (4) J-2 D's.
All of our J-2 indicated low battery at the same day on the report at 31 days. Currently at day 44 and the cams per the report:batch 30 , or 12 hours will help. the less times the Cell has to transmit in a day the more battery you will save. Max default is 30 images , anytime the que reaches 30 it will send.
i strongly recommend adding a 3358 booster to at least each J camera if you have the New J with 4 d battery pack on them, You will actually save money in the long run since running 6 d's in sequence allows them to run down further before dying. You will also get 120-180 days of life in most cases.All of our J-2 indicated low battery at the same day on the report at 31 days. Currently at day 44 and the cams per the report:
K Cell - BL=7638,BP=50%
#1 J-2 - BL=5062,BP=25%
#2 J-2 - BL=5057,BP=25%
#3 J-2 - BL=5024,BP=25%
#4 J-2 - BL=4926,BP=25%
All cameras are set to send every image to home and cell to transmit each picture as they are taken. When 8.0 comes out I want to make the changes to the cameras to get optimum battery life.
Regarding the detection zone, can anyone explain the advantage of changing the lenses or whatever it's called?
I ended up having them send me a new one(they sent me 2) because in the beginning I was getting very odd triggers. Pictures of deer on the outside edges obviously walking away- only their back ends got photographed, etc. I've never had a problem with dozens of other cameras from different manufacturers all these years..so I know iit had nothing to do with how I had the cam set up and where located- how high up etc. Now it works just fine.
Maybe certain batches of the cams came with screwed up lenses or something. Just doesn't add up that so many have/had that problem. Yes, I've read that Facebook group's page
Did you replace the lens with the centered lens? Which camera?
It's an option under commands. DST mode is set to auto by default.I noticed yesterday and today that my cell home appears to have adjusted to the time change on its own. I figured I would have to go adjust all of the cameras, but maybe not. Anyone familiar with how the cuddelink system processes the time change?
if you are confident your settings are correct yes i would submit for warranty. you could try a new fresnel lens but if the camera is new that shouldn't be the issue.Hey John,
I recently purchased three of the powerhouse black flash units and one of the K cameras and all are working well except for one. I have been testing them around the house and one of the powerhouse black flash units is taking a photo every minute on the minute even though I have time lapse mode turned off. I have tried doing full resets, using it in a standalone setting and linked to the other cameras, and updated to the latest firmware and it is still doing it. Any suggestions or do I need to submit it for a warranty?
Thanks as always for your help.
It is brand new, so I’ll go ahead on that route. Thanks.if you are confident your settings are correct yes i would submit for warranty. you could try a new fresnel lens but if the camera is new that shouldn't be the issue.
from a cost standpoint you are better off either running the booster with D's in it and the camera battery pack empty or putting standard alkaline batteries inside. they will drain concurrent when doing the set up as you noted and that wont be the best from a cost perspective.Have an opportunity to get some used j cams with 12 aa packs. What are peoples experiences with battery life with 12 lithium AAs in conjunction with the 3358 booster?
from a cost standpoint you are better off either running the booster with D's in it and the camera battery pack empty or putting standard alkaline batteries inside. they will drain concurrent when doing the set up as you noted and that wont be the best from a cost perspective.
if you are ok with swapping batteries every 120- 180 days go with option 1, if you want more than 6 months without touching them go with option 3.I Figure I have 3 options, (battery prices not being figured here, just equipment)
1. 12 AA alkalines with 3358 ($25)
2. 6d conversion plus 3358 ($50)
3. DPB without any internals ($50)
In my mind the DPB is better than 6d plus 3358 due to ability to distinguish between the 2 banks and increase runtime. The question is how much more runtime will i get, if any, with option #3 vs option #1? Is it worth the extra $25?
form a cost effective standpoint , lithiums dont make sense in any cuddelink unit unless you are in severe cold.Is there any combo of battery power that is not recommended. J camera with lithium AA's and 3358 or DPB, J camera with rechargeables and 3358 etc? Would be great if there would be a chart that listed all the different combos and their prospective results. I have so many different combos of cameras and power sources that its literally a game trying to figure what the best and possible options are. I also have problems with cables between old cameras, new cameras, power packs and solar panels.
So if running rechargeables no additional power source should be used.