Used compact tractor advise

[Apple Junkie]

Gentlemen, I find I have a need for a tractor that will be used primarily to maintain a ford across a fairly wide, substantial, rocky creek. My plan is to also use it to also maintain fairly steep logging roads that allow access to various areas of the property.

Currently, I have narrowed my search to a used machine, either a Kubota or John Deere compact tractor, with loader, in the 30 to 38 HP range, with under 1,000 hours. I find myself leaning toward a John Deere. I don’t want to get too deep in the weeds, but the models I am drawn to are the 3320 or newer version 3033R (37+hp), the 3520 or newer version 3039R (32hp), the 3038E (37 hp), or 3032E (31hp). The Kubota B3200 (32 hp) and L3400 (34 hp) look to be similar machines in the same price range. I’d like to spend no more than $16,000.

What questions should I be asking, or things I should be looking out for, when buying a used piece of equipment. I appreciate any insights from the more experienced tractor-guys here. Thanks!

 

[Bill]

Under 1000 hours should be a machine in fairly good shape. (Unless someone beat the crap out of it.)
I've read that Some compacts have frame issues with a FEL. Be sure to look for cracks or welds everywhere but look close around the FEL attachment points and frame close by them.

Obviously oil leaks.

You didn't say but I would think 4 wheel drive would be a must for the work your doing.

Bigger is always better......but $ is always a consideration

 

[Apple Junkie]

Under 1000 hours should be a machine in fairly good shape. (Unless someone beat the crap out of it.)
I've read that Some compacts have frame issues with a FEL. Be sure to look for cracks or welds everywhere but look close around the FEL attachment points and frame close by them.

Obviously oil leaks.

You didn't say but I would think 4 wheel drive would be a must for the work your doing.

Bigger is always better......but $ is always a consideration

Thanks Bill. Honestly, that is just the sort of advise I was looking for. Yes, 4 wheel Drive is a must. Agreed, bigger is better - unfortutnatly, that includes the thickness of my wallet, which is rather modest!! Thanks again.

 

[John-W-WI]

It seems Kubota & Deere both get plenty of respect with the habitat guys. It's the standard answer, but do you have a dealer for either one nearby? Everyone always says to buy a tractor that you have access to a good dealer. I own all Deere with a dealer 15 minutes away. Fortunately that hasn't proven very valuable. I do visit the dealer, but I can't think of a time that I NEEDED a dealer. One tractor was made in the 60's the other I bought new in ~2010.

I've spent as much money online buying stuff for them as I have locally.

My point is either brand will probably suit you well.

And I agree with Bill, you need 4wd for the terrain you describe!

-John

 

[yoderjac]

Given your description, I think you are a little light. I'd suggest renting a compact in the class you are looking at for a weekend or two and see if it can really do the job. Compact tractors have there place, but all the hp in the world does no good if the wheels are spinning because it is too light for the task. Is a FEL the best tool for maintaining a ford? Would a hoe be a better tool? We have lots of logging roads and some are steep. I find my FEL is a poor tool for this and unless the road is built with a nice crown, a rear blade can do more harm than good. In my experience, the most important aspect of water bars. Look at the drainage section of this link for some pics: https://www.nrs.fs.fed.us/fmg/nfmg/docs/mn/roads.pdf

I've got a Kioti DK45 4x4 with FEL. We have heavy clay soil. I found it very difficult to cut water bars with the FEL. It is a fairly easy job with a hoe. Once new bars are in place, if I'm careful, I can grade between water bars with a rear blade or box blade, but only in areas where I have plenty of room on the sides of the road for the tractor. I can't really do much if the road is closed in with trees on the sides. A compact tractor is more maneuverable but is much less able to dig in my clay. I've also got a compact, Kubota B2100 with a FEL. Both have tooth bars but the little tractor doesn't dig nearly as well in my clay.

The amount of time the water bars last seems directly related to the amount and type of traffic and the conditions. For example, if we limit traffic to ATVs going slow in 4wd in dry conditions, the water bars last for many years. If we allow pickup trucks when the roads are wet, the water bars don't even last a year.

Most folks asking about tractors are looking at 90% use for food plots. You are in a different situation. If I were you, I would try before you buy just to make sure you are getting the right kind of tool. Depending on your soils, a compact with a removable backhoe and FEL may be the right ticket. You don't need a wide bucket for water bars.

Just giving you some food for thought...

Thanks,

Jack

 

[buckdeer1]

I had heard that some of the Kubotas that are gray market have engines built outside their regular factory

 

[Apple Junkie]

It seems Kubota & Deere both get plenty of respect with the habitat guys. It's the standard answer, but do you have a dealer for either one nearby? Everyone always says to buy a tractor that you have access to a good dealer. I own all Deere with a dealer 15 minutes away. Fortunately that hasn't proven very valuable. I do visit the dealer, but I can't think of a time that I NEEDED a dealer. One tractor was made in the 60's the other I bought new in ~2010.

I've spent as much money online buying stuff for them as I have locally.

My point is either brand will probably suit you well.

And I agree with Bill, you need 4wd for the terrain you describe!

-John

Good point John... I have a Kubota dealer a mile down the road that are good folks. There is a a much larger John Deere dealer maybe 10 miles away who cater more to the "real" farmers. I plan to use the tractor at the camp, and at home, so I should be able to get it to either dealer in a pinch. I am reassured your Deere herd runs so well!

 

[John-W-WI]

who cater more to the "real" farmers

My local Deere dealer has always taken care of me, but I can't deny feeling like I'm not a "real farmer" while I'm there. I leave with $50 worth of parts. The guy next to me leaves with a pallet of hydraulic oil I am always surprised at their inventory. I ask for a oil drain plug for a 1968 4020 and they come walking out of the back of the store with one. Maybe they used the same plug for 20 years.

If I were them, I would spend more time with the guy that leaves with pallets of stuff.

-John

 

[Apple Junkie]

Given your description, I think you are a little light. I'd suggest renting a compact in the class you are looking at for a weekend or two and see if it can really do the job.

I hate the voice of reason, but you make a valid point about “try before you buy”. It seems to me that owing a tractor is like owning a boat…whatever ya got, it is never quite big enough! I have access to a Kubota 3200 with a backhoe which I could borrow first to see if it does the job. It would be the wise move, and I will take that under consideration.

I glanced through that road pamphlet, it’s very good. I downloaded it and will read it another time. Forgive me, but I assume when you refer to an FEL, you’re referring to a front end loader? The heaviest piece of equipment using the road will be the tractor I buy, otherwise foot and ATV traffic only. I can see the advantage of a backhoe for keeping the creek in it’s banks. As for water bars, the roads going up the side of the hills just wide enough for a small tractor, and not wide enough to lower the stabilizer legs on a backhoe. The other limiting factor is my budget, which I set for myself to control mission creep. The good news is, the guy with the Kubota with the backhoe hunts with me every year, and has to cross the same creek, and get up the same hills! In a pinch, I can borrow his for work I can’t do with the one I get. Thanks for your thoughtful suggestions Jack. By the way, a Kioti is not out of the question, but the nearest dealer is quite a ways away which worry’s me a bit.

 

[yoderjac]

Yes, sorry for the acronyms. FEL is Front End Loader. Also, I was not suggesting Kioti as a specific brand. I was just listing the tractor models I have so you could look up size and weight for comparison to estimate whether the tractor size you are looking at will meet you needs.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Orlando]

I have a JD 3038e. It is a great little tractor and does what I need. The biggest issue is getting power to the ground. If given a choice, I would go with the 3320 as is a heavier tractor.

 

[JFK52]

buckdeer1, Do you have any references for your statement? Just asking because I am a Kubota guy and have owned one for over 27 years. Is this a more recent problem? I have never heard anything about non factory engines or even gray market Kubotas. Not saying they don't exist, just saying I am not aware of this problem.

 

[Apple Junkie]

I have a JD 3038e. It is a great little tractor and does what I need. The biggest issue is getting power to the ground. If given a choice, I would go with the 3320 as is a heavier tractor.

That’s really helpful information Orlando, thanks. I am looking at both models and I can see the 3038e weighs in at 2,222 lbs., while the 3320 is listed at 2,900 lbs. I can probably get the 3320 for around the same price as the 3038e if I am willing to accept more hours. Can I ask how many hours you have on your 3038e? I’ve thought of adding “beet juice” to the tires, or adding a ballast box, to add weight. Do you have any experience with either? Thanks again for passing your experience along.

 

[Dukslayr]

Well, I am selling my 2006 Kubota L3830 HST (38 hp/30 hp PTO) w/ loader as soon as the dealer preps and delivers my new Massy 75 ho tractor. I’ve owned this Kubota since 2011 and loved owning it. Outside of operator error it’s never given me any troubles. When I went to shop for new tractors a nearly bought a new Kubota 7060 but a couple of factors pushed me toward Massey instead (same dealership as Kubota).

I will echo what others have said; find a dealer close enough that they can work on our tractor without it being a hassle or overly expensive to haul it back and forth. My dealer charges 3.00 a loaded mile and they’re 20 miles each way. I would buy another Kubota in a heartbeat.

If you’re close to NW Missouri you’re welcome to look at mine once it’s serviced and set out on the dealer lot. Part of the deal was that they’d sell the tractor for me on their lot without commission since it’s worth several thousand more than they could give me in trade. It’ll be on Tractor House and their website in 2-3 weeks or you’re welcome to PM. I will say that if you’re looking for a sub 1000 hour 36-38hp Kubota with a loader that you’re going to spend every bit of 16k. Mine has a shade over 2,000 hours (I am second owner and put probably 300 hours on it in 7 years) and it should fetch 14.5+ in my market without any attachments (I’m selling it with several).

Best of luck in your search. I think you won’t go wrong with either tractor...feel out your dealers and then find the best deal you can on a nice rig.

Thomas

 

[yoderjac]

buckdeer1, Do you have any references for your statement? Just asking because I am a Kubota guy and have owned one for over 27 years. Is this a more recent problem? I have never heard anything about non factory engines or even gray market Kubotas. Not saying they don't exist, just saying I am not aware of this problem.

In the early years when Kubota was becoming a known name, they began to carry a premium price in the used market for small tractors. Kubota built lower cost tractors and sold them in markets like Mexico that did not have the same requirements as the US. The model numbers were different and some parts were different so it was hard to get parts in the US to maintain them. Folks were importing them used and selling them in the US for significantly less. This was not authorized by Kubota and they were called grey market tractors.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[ruskbucks]

That’s really helpful information Orlando, thanks. I am looking at both models and I can see the 3038e weighs in at 2,222 lbs., while the 3320 is listed at 2,900 lbs. I can probably get the 3320 for around the same price as the 3038e if I am willing to accept more hours. Can I ask how many hours you have on your 3038e? I’ve thought of “beet juice” to the tires, or adding a ballast box, to add weight. Do you have any experience with either? Thanks again for passing your experience along.

Our 4120 came with a quick attach ballast box. The one problem is the compacts are so light. If I were to load the bucket to the max with sand it can actually lift one of the rear tires off the ground. The ballast box does work great, and is also a lot safer. If I'm using the loader on a all day project I will attach the ballast. The problem I have is we usually have the brush hog hooked up and I don't feel like unhooking and hooking it up again. I always wanted to get beet juice, I think its the way to go. Both our 4120 and 3720 have a lot of power that is not being used correctly cause they are light. I think beet juice would solve this.

 

[ruskbucks]

Gentlemen, I find I have a need for a tractor that will be used primarily to maintain a ford across a fairly wide, substantial, rocky creek. My plan is to also use it to also maintain fairly steep logging roads that allow access to various areas of the property.

Currently, I have narrowed my search to a used machine, either a Kubota or John Deere compact tractor, with loader, in the 30 to 38 HP range, with under 1,000 hours. I find myself leaning toward a John Deere. I don’t want to get too deep in the weeds, but the models I am drawn to are the 3320 or newer version 3033R (37+hp), the 3520 or newer version 3039R (32hp), the 3038E (37 hp), or 3032E (31hp). The Kubota B3200 (32 hp) and L3400 (34 hp) look to be similar machines in the same price range. I’d like to spend no more than $16,000.

What questions should I be asking, or things I should be looking out for, when buying a used piece of equipment. I appreciate any insights from the more experienced tractor-guys here. Thanks!

We have a 3720 and a 4120 with a FEL. Love them both and they have never been in for a repair. I would suggest the hydro transmission. It is great with the bucket. A tractor with 1000 hrs should be in nice shape still. Check out the tires, you can learn a lot from them on how the tractor was used or abused. Move the loader bucket in all directions in should be smooth. Also make sure it has good down pressure. You should be able the put the bucket down and lift the front tires up. Look for codes on the dash just like a car. Look to see if the grease fitting have been greased regularly. Test out all the gears and FWD. I think a tractor with this kind of hours wouldn't have any issues.

 

[Orlando]

Apple - I have about 350 hours on the 3038e. For me, the hydrostat is great. My tires are not loaded. But, I have considered it. Just haven't gotten around to it. Rather than a ballast box, I just leave the box blade on and have added a couple hundred pounds to it. I use my tractor mostly for mowing, building fence, moving hedge posts and piling brush. Only spend one to two days/year tilling for food plots. I have been looking at moving up to the JD 5065e for something big enough to handle big round bales.

 

[Apple Junkie]

I’ve owned this Kubota since 2011 and loved owning it. Outside of operator error it’s never given me any troubles.

Thanks, Dukslayr. The Kubota L3830 looks to be right in the target range of what I am looking for. NY is a long way from MO, but can see the 3830 is popular model. What I am most impressed with is that you have 2,000 hours on yours and it’s still running just fine. It’s becoming clear to me that I don’t need to be as concerned with hours, as with the tractor being well maintained and in good working order. Much appreciated.

 

[Apple Junkie]

Check out the tires, you can learn a lot from them on how the tractor was used or abused. Move the loader bucket in all directions in should be smooth. Also make sure it has good down pressure. You should be able the put the bucket down and lift the front tires up. Look for codes on the dash just like a car. Look to see if the grease fitting have been greased regularly. Test out all the gears and FWD. I think a tractor with this kind of hours wouldn't have any issues.

Good, practical suggestions. I’ll be sure to check all this, ruskbucks. Thanks.