The Throw n’ Mow Method

[S.T.Fanatic]

Sow seed into standing crop roll and spray. I will be doing soybeans in this exact same way sometime in the near future.


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[Turtlesprings]

Does the lablab need to be inoculated when it will be broadcast into a mess?

 

[scott44]

I have a half acre field in rye/winter vetch. It is growing really well. Almost to 25% flowering stage. I am wanting to roll with my cultipacker at 80% flowering stage and cast a lablab plus type mix into the mess. Do you think that will work? Should I broad cast the seed into the standing mess, roll and spray glypho at the same time?

That should work well

 

[Turtlesprings]

Will mowing that plot after broadcasting achieve the same goal?

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

Rolling will give you a more even seed coverage of thatch at also will get more of the weeds exposed for the herbicide.


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[Turtlesprings]

Rolling will give you a more even seed coverage of thatch at also will get more of the weeds exposed for the herbicide.


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I have a cultipacker and not a crimper...hope that does well.

 

[Catscratch]

Legumes only need to be inoculated to take nitrogen out of the air and put it in the soil, the plants will grow fine regardless of inoculation or not.

I've found little good from rolling live plants as they tend to stand back up. I said role, not crimp... very different results between the two. I haven't used my roller in years but I found it only good at knocking down dead vegetation.

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[S.T.Fanatic]

Roller will not kill and will require gly but the thatch willlay down much more evenly


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[S.T.Fanatic]

 

[TreeDaddy]

^^^^^^^^

Looks like he seeds first and then follows with crimper

bill

 

[yoderjac]

Legumes only need to be inoculated to take nitrogen out of the air and put it in the soil, the plants will grow fine regardless of inoculation or not.

I've found little good from rolling live plants as they tend to stand back up. I said role, not crimp... very different results between the two. I haven't used my roller in years but I found it only good at knocking down dead vegetation.

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Just to be clear for new folks, there is a symbiotic relationship with the Rhizobium bacteria forming nodules on the root system that significantly improves the ability to fix N from the atmosphere. Different legumes require different bacteria. If it is the first time you are planting a legume that requires a particular Rhizobium in a field, inoculation will do the most good. After that, there are generally enough of that strain in the soil that the benefits from inoculation diminish.

When folks use deep and frequent tillage, they introduce oxygen into the soil which burns organic matter, disturbs the soil tilth, and plays havoc with the microbiology. Folks using these traditional farming techniques will require more fertilizer as the natural nutrient cycling ability is disturbed. They may also benefit more from inoculation of legumes in fields where they have been previously grown.

This is just one more benefit of using techniques described in this thread.

I agree that rolling doesn't kill most plants and crimping will only kill some like WR and the growing stage is a factor. The benefit of rolling is pressing seed into the ground. A cultipacker is a great tool for this. I broadcast buckwheat, sunn hemp, and milo into my standing cover crop. It was mostly WR, CC, and mixed weeds. I then culitipacked and sprayed with gly. As Cat describes, the WR mostly stood back up, but the gly took care of that. The cultipacking improved germination rates.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[chucker66]

I only have a roller and it actually does a pretty good job. My rye is usually done by the time I roll it though so I get some "free seed". I still spray after I roll but each year I am having less and less weeds (Not that weeds are always bad). Thank you winter rye.

Chuck

 

[Turtlesprings]

I'm making a roller crimper to pull behind the atv. The idea is to spread the seed into the mess. Roll/crimp and spray to knock down the massive amounts of greenery to help with mulching in the new lablab seeds I ordered. If they ever get here.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I planted heavy last week Saturday and have gotten a few good rains on it. I will be checking it at some point this afternoon for germination. I put down 100# of early maturing soybeans, 50# winter peas, 2-3# sunflower, 2# swedes, 2# annual clovers (had laying around), and 3 packets of squash seed. I went really heavy on the legumes based off off heavy crop residue and SD's recommendation. Hopefully it turns out well.

If it's a bust, I'm going to spray it off a couple of times throughout the summer and burn it off. My thinking is to plant radish at a rate no more than 2#/acre so there is plenty of room for a winter barley planting. Thinking I will go 100#/acre on that. That should give me a weed free plot to try planting TNM soybeans again the next spring with plenty of cereal to crimp over the top of it.

 

[TreeDaddy]

A good rain (1-2 in) after seeding TnM makes me look like a genius.........

bill

 

[yoderjac]

A good rain (1-2 in) after seeding TnM makes me look like a genius.........

bill

That is what makes things so much easier for folks living on or near their land. I'm looking forward to retirement where I don't have to try to guess the weather for the next few weekends. I'll be able to just look a day or two down the road where forecasts are pretty accurate to choose planting days.

 

[Rit]

I plant most things TNM. If I waited until there was rain I may never get to plant. I broadcast, mow, and when it rains it rains. The seed is covered, protected, and in most cases a fall planting germinates just fine with morning dew. If I had very little thatch I would be more inclined to wait on rain but as of now I plant when I have time.

 

[yoderjac]

I plant most things TNM. If I waited until there was rain I may never get to plant. I broadcast, mow, and when it rains it rains. The seed is covered, protected, and in most cases a fall planting germinates just fine with morning dew. If I had very little thatch I would be more inclined to wait on rain but as of now I plant when I have time.

One of the great advantages of no-till/min-til is moisture retention in your soil. Tilled soil loses a lot of moisture. I think a cultipacker helps more when there is a gap between planting and rain. Rain knocks seeds down and can splash a little soil on them and beats them in improving seed-soil contact in addition to the moisture. When you have good seed-sol contact using a cultipacker, dew is often enough to get germination. So, as long as the period without rain is not too long you can still get a good field. We've all got to work within our constraints.

 

[35-acre]

I die a little each time I have to spray and kill off my existing plants - LOL. So I was soft-hearted and left the middle of my field with the clover.

I've got a great crop of clover with some winter wheat still growing. Yesterday I used my pump sprayer and I lightly sprayed most of my field with Glysophate. I hit the bigger weeds a little more than the rest. I'll go back in a week or so and probably re-spray to get anything that I've missed or touch up what needs more. I'm going to try and get my seed in earlier this year than last (early July) to see if that will work.

I don't see anything growing on my pears, apples or on my chestnuts. That hurts a little too as I've got years into those plants with no fruit.

Regardless, it was a beautiful day! So here's a couple of better photos for those of you cooped up in front of your computer :)

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

What will you be planting?