Pruning Whips

[greyphase]

The apple trees that I grafted and planted last fall are all whips 3 to 6 feet tall. I've read on other sources that I should prune them back to 3 feet tall to promote side branch growth. Being that these are "deer apples" I'm having a hard time making myself cut them back that far and so far have only pruned 6 to 12 inches off them and some not at all. If I want limbs starting at 5 feet should I prune these whips back to 3 feet or less? Over the years I've made every pruning mistake you can make :oops: so am I making a mistake in not pruning these whips back more severely? It's just hard to see so much nice growth being cut off.:(

 

[Turkey Creek]

No you dont need to. That is the premises behind central leader training, you allow the central leader to remain unpruned. I would try the notching/scoring method above the buds you would like to form branches. I have some 3rd leaf apples that have done just fine growing laterals with no heading back of the central leader.

If you do head back your central leader the laterals are going to be within a much closer distance to your cut. If you want laterals at 5' cut the leader at 5'6".

 

[CrazyEd]

Rick
I have read plenty of pruning at the time of planting as well, I believe this is what you are speaking of. You are correct and you should head them back. I dont think it's as much about producing limbs is at is more about pushing the roots below the surface rather than growing wood.

http://www.starkbros.com/blog/fruit-tree-care-pre-pruning/

Bnhpr also told me to head back all my newly trees at time of planting when i did my big planting in 2012.
http://www.qdma.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42198&page=7&highlight=2012

 

[Bowsnbucks]

FWIW - The trees I've gotten from SLN & Cummins were already headed back when shipped. I asked them both if I should head them back when I planted them and they both told me " No, they're already cut. Just plant them. " They were whips from 2 ft. to 4 ft. tall ( grafted ) when planted.

That said, I have a publication for small-scale fruit growers that advises heading back to 30" the first year when planting. It explains that heading back the tree to 30" will re-balance the top and roots and cause the buds just below the cut to form scaffold branches. The book says cutting lower will result in excessive vegetative growth and cutting higher than 30" results in weak growth in the lower areas of the tree and weak top growth. It goes on to explain how to train limbs and prune in year 1, 2, 3, etc.

I hope that is of some help.

 

[Turkey Creek]

The apple trees that I grafted and planted last fall are all whips 3 to 6 feet tall.

Maybe I am misinterpreting the above. I assumed "grafted and planted" meant they are already in their permanent growing locations. In which case I will stick with my original comment. If you are going to dig and plant them in new locations then I agree with the other guys. When you dig them you will lose some of the exsisting roots.

 

[greyphase]

Maybe I am misinterpreting the above. I assumed "grafted and planted" meant they are already in their permanent growing locations. In which case I will stick with my original comment. If you are going to dig and plant them in new locations then I agree with the other guys. When you dig them you will lose some of the exsisting roots.

The trees were grafted last spring and planted in pots to grow through the summer, then in the fall they were planted in their permanent locations. My thinking (and I've gotten in to trouble before doing that :confused:) is If I cut them off at 3 feet they will put on unwanted branches that will need to be cut off later. But I do see Ed's point that less wood above ground would help make the root system grow. Will probably cut some back and leave some fairly tall and see what happens.

 

[CrazyEd]

Maybe I am misinterpreting the above. I assumed "grafted and planted" meant they are already in their permanent growing locations. In which case I will stick with my original comment. If you are going to dig and plant them in new locations then I agree with the other guys. When you dig them you will lose some of the exsisting roots.

Even if they were planted last fall, if they are anything like my grafts the leader was probably not hardened off. Therefore it probably depends if the trees were headed back at time of planting or not. I headed back all of my grafts that I planted last year and they branched and did well. I think ideally your root system should match what you have above the ground, a huge tree with a tiny root is not a good thing. I think there could still be benefits to heading back. But that's just me. But honestly I've planted one fruit tree in the fall and i'll never do it again. I prefer spring planting as a personal preference.

 

[Turkey Creek]

I think I muddied the water while trying to clear it!:eek: I actually meant that I thought they had been grown in their permanent location from the get go.

Seeing as how you didnt lose any roots you can probably get by without heading them back so drastically. One additional benefit of heading them back is you will increase trunk diameter if they too spindly. Like Crazy Ed said you might have had some tip die back as well on that tender new growth that will need to be removed regardless. Fall planting is not recommended in any zones colder than 5b from what I have read. I completely agree that if you are losing roots you need need to remove enough wood to not stress the tree.

 

[greyphase]

With the record cold we have been having in recent years I thought that the tree roots would be better protected in the ground rather than above ground in their pots, that was my reasoning for fall planting. Guess I'll find out in a few more weeks when the trees start to leaf out if it was a good decision or not. Will "bite the bullet" and prune some more of my whips back further. I've always planted bought trees in the spring so planting my own grafted trees is a learning experience to me.

 

[Turkey Creek]

learning experience to me.

It is for all of us! I think that is why we are here on this forum. People who arent learning THINK they are experts.

 

[greyphase]

[QUOTE="Turkey Creek, People who arent learning THINK they are experts.[/QUOTE]

:);):D

 

[CrazyEd]

With the record cold we have been having in recent years I thought that the tree roots would be better protected in the ground rather than above ground in their pots, that was my reasoning for fall planting.

Makes perfect sense to me!