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I must be wearing her down

kabic said:
foggy, is this guy you were talking about that makes custom kits: http://www.fitritehydraulics.com/index.html

I like the top and tilt (manual valve) for the JD 1 series that he has on that site. That's on my wish list of adding stuff to my tractor that dont really need but may be nice once in a while.
Click to expand...

Yep, that is the site. I think he makes some of the best "kits" for top links and tilt. Other than blade work.....I don't see much use in a tilt cylinder either. I think some of the heavy box blade and landscape boys like the tilt feature allot tho.

I'm likely out of date on this stuff and should read his site again. I don't know about a manual valve unit. Always something new.
 
I have a specific need for the hydraulic top link. The tilt would be a frill that wouldn't get used much.

I also learned that the open center systems on tractors don't operate like I thought they did (they're not constant pressure systems), so the easiest and cheapest way to do what I want is to put a diverter in the rear SCV circuit to use for the top link as needed.
 
There is a pretty nifty valve offered by Fassee. Do a google on "Fassee Valve" which is sold by the JD dealers. It's a diverter valve that is Plug and Play with your rear remotes. Makes for an easy hook up. I've almost bought one on a few occasions.
 
Then the rear remotes are tied up. I want to keep them for other tasks, but retain the top link.
 
With a Fassee Valve.....you get 4 couplers in lieu of two couplers. I also think they can offer six from two couplers. Essentially its a diverter valve that is "plug and play" with the JD remotes. You have the means to electrically divert between different pairs of Quick Couplers. What Fassee provides is an easy connection to supply multiple pairs of couplers.......via one pair of adjustable couplers....as commonly found on a single set of JD tractor Quick Couplers. Very easy to set up and operate from a single SCV lever.
 
I'm well aware of that. I also know that you're paying a premium to have someone else fill your valve block with the fittings, and I would rather hard plumb the diverter in without tying up the quick connects if I went that route.

I don't like this valve because it requires the coils to be energized to use either of the cylinder ports, but it's an example of what's out there that isn't boutiquely branded and accordingly priced.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...BLE-SELECTOR-VALVE-12-VDC-P15544-1-9-5117.axd
 
So are you looking for something with one port normally open, one closed. Energize the coils and the cylinders switch?

Something like this, but with higher flow?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...E-SELECTOR-VALVE-12-VDC-P15544-2-9-5117-A.axd

The 5045E has a total flow of 18.2 gpm, and the steering uses 6.8. Does that mean there is about 11.4 left for the remaining hydraulic system?
 
Yep, they have some other solenoid valves that'd work, but they end up costing around $300 and I'm not excited to pay that much just yet. I need to see what the surplus places around the metro have before I jump in. I have a whole wall of pneumatics from local deals. I just never got into hydraulics.
 
Surplus center usually has pretty good prices.
 
Yep those valves from SC are getting cheaper. I've bought a few things from them when I'm in my "cheap mode". But add all the connectors and fittings......and see what your finished price will be. I saw that Fassee on-line for $455 FOB my door.....and it's complete down to the switch, wire, connectors, mounts and six Quality QA Couplers. ......and it's all plug and play.

I agree: There is a price for convenience. Some of us have other stuff to do. FORE! ;)
 
Female QC's are about 10/each, so you're at 40, male are about $5, $50, hoses 10, $70, thread sealer, $2, $72, switch, wire, and enclosure $5, $78, and the valve $160 = $238 + markup and assembly $217 to get to your $455. Was that for a 6gpm diverter valve or one that'd feed my tractor? ;)

But that still evades the issue of me not wanting to plug up my existing rear remote QC's, so I don't need 2 of those male or female QC's (-$30), and I don't want a diverter valve for my grapple (I'll add one for the top link, and that will be a 6 hose and no additional QC proposition). I'll need extra QC's to make sure my hard lines on the boom can come off.

Some of us hate golf. ;) I happen to enjoy the hell out of making stuff.
 
JT
Is your tractor a teir 3 or 4 engine?
 
Tier 2 - which is another reason I'm not buying a "new" new one.

I also found the rebuild manual for the style fuel injection pump it uses. I know how to make it produce more power. :D
 
Jim Timber said:
Tier 2 - which is another reason I'm not buying a "new" new one.

I also found the rebuild manual for the style fuel injection pump it uses. I know how to make it produce more power. :D
Click to expand...
Now Jim.......must you tweak on EVERYTHING? ;) Interesting that you make needed mods to so much of your gear. At one time I did that too.....and still end-up rebuilding allot of stuff that just is not up my quality standards. On most items tho......I've come to let the product engineers figure it out.....and leave it alone. I appreciate a guy that does the mods......just lack the time, inclination, and ability to do that kinda work anymore. WTG Jim!
 
I'd figure a tightwad like you would appreciate my approach. :p Buy the de-tuned tractor for a few grand cheaper, and then dial it up to the higher horsepower.

I have to wait until the warranty expires anyway. :D

Northern says my selector valve is in.
 
When I try a tinker with anything mechanical, I just break it.

I guess that is why I like trees, animals, and wood.
 
sandbur said:
When I try a tinker with anything mechanical, I just break it.

I guess that is why I like trees, animals, and wood.
Click to expand...
Yeah.....but you can't kill iron. ;)
 
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