I'm looking for pods but might just give it a shot anyway. It will be getting WW and WR in the fall anyway so not going to be out much.
 
I'm looking for pods but might just give it a shot anyway. It will be getting WW and WR in the fall anyway so not going to be out much.
That's my view on it also. Summer food that will be replanted in the fall anyway.

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Throw-n-mow is shining right now. All part of the same plot. The corn was planted by using the bucket to drag vegetation (had already been sprayed) and then make groves for seed to fall into. The rest was Throw-n-mow sunflowers, winter peas, millet, and sorghum.
The corn part that was disturbed soil is a mess of grasses. The thatched and undisturbed side is mostly weed free crops.
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I posted earlier about winter rye failure, but some did actually grow. Guessing about 50%. Here's some of it, along with the clover and peas I broadcast in late spring and covered with hay cuz I didn't have anything to mow.
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2 acres planted by means of discing, broadcasting, and packing. I needed to level the field out. Almost no rain since planting and man is it struggling. I planned to convert this into TNM in the fall. Now I just hope enough of anything grows to make that happen. A54BFB7B-9D83-4CA9-B36C-9B28FBDAB221.jpeg
 
Rit, you can probably still do turnips and rye as throw and mow. As long as you get rain they'll grow witbout cover.
 
I've read all of the posts in this thread and it's been excellent. Thanks to all the contributers, especially Crimson, for keeping this going.

I'm going to be doing a throw mow roll this yr into existing rye, probably early August, with lc mix of peas, radish, oats and in September with wr. I noticed where I planted clover into rye that the shady spots are coming in better... I'm really hopeful that this method will really produce later on. Luckily my soils are pretty good to start which is a big bonus.

Question: does anyone plant WR as a summer crop to roll a fall mix later in the yr? I see people use summer annuals but the WR works so well I'd like to just stick with that. It's a first time in the woods plot that's been hit with gly, but I think I could get away with less spraying of weeds if WR was in.
 
Rit, you can probably still do turnips and rye as throw and mow. As long as you get rain they'll grow witbout cover.
I agree. Not sure exactly what I will do. I really don’t want to disc again. This plot will eventually be a destination plot. It is surrounded by 7 acres of CIR ( which is also suffering). I have another 2 acres in WR from last years TNM and that stuff is about 5’ tall. I was going for some diversity but if I have to plant both in WR I will be okay with that the deer were in it a lot.
 
Well, I probably messed up a bit. I had a good planting (a little light) of WW that came up this spring after I added 500lbs of lime.

I decided to knock it down with my narrow rake to start my plantings last month. On my third pass a fawn jumped up from the middle. I continued with my work. I fertilized with 12-12-12 and overseeded with buckwheat, I planted some Egyptian wheat grass and a little clover in different areas.

When I checked mail camera pics I saw that field was a nursery for the fawn. Had I checked the pics first I probably would have left the field standing and seeded the buckwheat by hand (and the fertilizer).

I head out in 2 days to see how things have progressed. Looking forward to seeing some sprouts.
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I had put down some lime (solu-cal) today. I had tested my soil today and it's still rather acidic. So I threw down another 200 pounds of lime. I probably still need another 700 pounds this year. I'll add some more later before I finish planting my fall plots.

It turns out knocking down my field really hasn't hurt my "nursery" at all. Mom and fawns are there almost every day. I have Clover coming up, still have winter wheat, and some rye grass.

I went ahead and planted some "tall time tubers" today in the top third of my field. It's about 3 or 4 weeks early, but I wanted to see if I can get them going with the conditions that I have. So I cast it by hand, and then use my Haro rake and knocked down all the standing vegetation. Then I rode over all of the area with my ATV to compact the seed to soil. I had just put down fertilizer 2 weeks ago so I didn't bother doing any fertilizer into the planting.
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I got my brassicas planted yesterday with the throw and roll method into last years rye. No fertilization now but I will add some later.

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That is some serious OM covering your soil Scott
Yea it is thick, if it wasn't for a couple years ago I would think it is almost too thick and I had some of the best brassicas I've ever had.
 
Did a bass ackwards throw n mow a couple weeks ago with sunflowers.

Wanted to try it on something where I wouldn't be reliant on it as an experiment.
25# bag of black sunflowers from the farm supply store

Due to heavy rain, I broadcasted the seeds into an uncut (36" fallow pasture field) prior to spraying, on a friday. Saturday my buddy was there and mowed it, and then I was there tuesday and sprayed it. Literally as backwards as you can get it.

11 days after planting I went and checked on it and we have 2-3" sunflowers coming thru. I'll do it better next time with the spraying and a bit more planning, but was impressed with the amount of germination I got even with doing things totally out of order.

If I can get this figured out, I'll be able to put in a heck of a lot more food (the one thing the farm is missing) in the ground rather than spending time tilling and cultipacking.

I have an acre or 2 of brassicas and turnips I want to put in come early august, and that's a lot of tilling with a 4' tiller
 
Another question I've got is, how high do you want your thatch to be before you lay it down? Got a spot that was just brushhogged that I wanna let grow back a bit, then spray, then plant come early to mid august. But Didn't know how much thatch I need to get enough coverage. Assuming decent moisture and weather, is 12" of cover enough if I brushhog it on top of cereals and brassicas?
 
Roy,
I'm not an expert by any means but I can maybe help out a bit. The thatch or OM (Organic Matter) is the stuff already laying down. It's the stuff on top of the soil. It holds a lot of moisture. Whatever you're planting into that you are going to mow or roll (in my case, I roll and I don't spray) just needs to be enough to help cover the seed and create little mini greenhouses on top of your seed. This helps in 2 ways (through the green house and covers the seed from birds, etc.). So depending on what it is that you are "throwing" into (broad leaf or narrow leaf crop) the height might come into play. However, once you run over the field after you've seeded, the seed will likely work it's way down closer to the OM/thatch and germinate from down there near all that good stuff.

So to answer your question, if you've got a good layer of OM/thatch already and have something else growing in it that is 12" high - you should be in great shape to get germination. Scroll up and look at RIT's picture compared to Barndog's. If your field looks like RIT's, you better thing about tilling and planting (RIT stated he's looking to move that field over to TnM). If it looks more like Barndog's you should feel more comfortable.
 
I got my brassicas planted yesterday with the throw and roll method into last years rye. No fertilization now but I will add some later.

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Scott44 - what's that you're working with in your field? An ATV with a tow-behind?
 
35,that makes sense.

Just talked to a buddy of mine who's a wildlife biologist and moonlights as a consultant setting up properties and he said if planting during a hot spell he says to spray the grass and let it stand, said the deer will find the plants coming up and it'll keep the seed from getting baked if we have a dry spell
 
ok so I have just read many of these pages on throw n mow method. My question is, lets say you do this a few years in a row...eventually the thatch build up will be too thick and the seed may not make it to soil. Do you them till everything up and basically start again?
 
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