The Throw n’ Mow Method

[davidhelmly]

The bacteria helps the plant convert gaseous nitrogen into a form the plant can use. It helps put nitrogen nodes in the roots, which helps the plant grow stronger and healthier. This puts nitrogen into the soil for the next crops. It's not a part of the germination process.

Absolutely right Catscratch but if the crop you are currently planting has been grown in that spot before, the bacteria should already be living in the soil and the innoculant under that coating isn’t needed and is just costing you 50% more for your seed.

 

[matinc]

As far as coating goes does any wild seed have coating? Yet it continues to germinate and grow.

 

[bigboreblr]

Technically yes. The whole seed head is a coating, and the seeds themsevles have almost like a flower leaf wrapper to them. Seed processing include winnowing / removing what they call chaff. Also, some seed suppliers chemically or mechanically remove some / errode the seed coating. Some habitat guys put their clover seed in a tumbler with sand for a few hours. Not many though.

There is some benefit to seed coating. They claim it holds moisture, and it can contain antifungal chemicals to resist rotting. Not all do. Could just be marketing B.S.

MY big beef is the bright pretty colors. Some people like them to see even spreading. They do wash off pretty quick if the rain gets there before the birds do.

 

[Catscratch]

They do wash off pretty quick if the rain gets there before the birds do.

This is why I say I don't think it's particularly beneficial for TnM. Buried seed keeps some of the coating materials around the seed wne it gets wet. Seed on the surface would easily wash the coat off and have it wash away.

 

[Newbie]

Hey guys, so I read through this entire thread a while back and tried my hand on some throw/mow on a small plot in an old hayfield last year. Results were pretty good, despite a few errors on my behalf. First, I sprayed, then mowed as low as I could with a lawnmower, let it sprout, then sprayed and mowed again. I was (incorrectly) trying to essentially plant on bare dirt which I know defeats a lot of the benefits of this process. I chalk that up as a beginner mistake. Despite the errors, I had a pretty nice little clover/chicory stand which I overseeded with Rye and Brassica in the fall and my wife bagged a decent 8 off it. One of my other errors was simply that the plot was too small (prob 0.5 acre) and the deer mowed it down to a putting green before the season heated up. I had it small on purpose because I knew I had a learning curve ahead and wanted to learn on a smaller scale prior to expanding.

This spring, I am planning to convert the remainder of the field as a 4 acre destination plot. My plan as of now is to spray gly and 2,4b in the spring, wait until it sprouts, spray again, seed, and roll. I plan to 2x the spray to terminate some of the weeds in the seed bed as I am converting an old pasture/hay field that has never been planted.

My plan is a white and red clover mix (ladino, medium red, aslike, durana), chicory, rye, and overseeding in the summer with a brassica mix. I hope the rye will alleviate a little browsing pressure on the young clovers and provide a thatch layer to seed into come summer. Ultimately, I'd like to establish this plot as a low-maintenance clover plot that I can overseed rye/brassicas in for a little more late season variety, without becoming a prisoner to mowing/seeding/spraying it constantly throughout the year.

Any feedback on this general plan? Anything that I am missing or pointers as I further refine this plot?

Just for a little additional information, its about a 4 acre field alongside my driveway. I'm working on establishing some fruit trees on the perimeter, I have 10 apple trees in the ground and nearly 15 chestnut trees to plant this spring. I'm in 6B with clay soil. One issue I have is privacy, I need to screen the field along the driveway for sure, and it is relatively close to the house so my dogs prevent it from being more productive than it could be. Nonetheless, the forage has drew a lot of deer attention last year and I hope to make it as productive as I can given the circumstances.

 

[omicron1792]

Hey guys, so I read through this entire thread a while back and tried my hand on some throw/mow on a small plot in an old hayfield last year. Results were pretty good, despite a few errors on my behalf. First, I sprayed, then mowed as low as I could with a lawnmower, let it sprout, then sprayed and mowed again. I was (incorrectly) trying to essentially plant on bare dirt which I know defeats a lot of the benefits of this process. I chalk that up as a beginner mistake. Despite the errors, I had a pretty nice little clover/chicory stand which I overseeded with Rye and Brassica in the fall and my wife bagged a decent 8 off it. One of my other errors was simply that the plot was too small (prob 0.5 acre) and the deer mowed it down to a putting green before the season heated up. I had it small on purpose because I knew I had a learning curve ahead and wanted to learn on a smaller scale prior to expanding.

This spring, I am planning to convert the remainder of the field as a 4 acre destination plot. My plan as of now is to spray gly and 2,4b in the spring, wait until it sprouts, spray again, seed, and roll. I plan to 2x the spray to terminate some of the weeds in the seed bed as I am converting an old pasture/hay field that has never been planted.

My plan is a white and red clover mix (ladino, medium red, aslike, durana), chicory, rye, and overseeding in the summer with a brassica mix. I hope the rye will alleviate a little browsing pressure on the young clovers and provide a thatch layer to seed into come summer. Ultimately, I'd like to establish this plot as a low-maintenance clover plot that I can overseed rye/brassicas in for a little more late season variety, without becoming a prisoner to mowing/seeding/spraying it constantly throughout the year.

Any feedback on this general plan? Anything that I am missing or pointers as I further refine this plot?

Just for a little additional information, its about a 4 acre field alongside my driveway. I'm working on establishing some fruit trees on the perimeter, I have 10 apple trees in the ground and nearly 15 chestnut trees to plant this spring. I'm in 6B with clay soil. One issue I have is privacy, I need to screen the field along the driveway for sure, and it is relatively close to the house so my dogs prevent it from being more productive than it could be. Nonetheless, the forage has drew a lot of deer attention last year and I hope to make it as productive as I can given the circumstances.

Read on giant Miscanthus grass here. Also several companies make screen mixes you can plant strips. Mainly Egyptian wheat and sorghum Sudan with some regular sorghum and Milo to help hold up the taller plants. I’ve had luck with teosinte as a screen. But long term giant Miscanthus is the best if you can grow it in your area.

 

[Newbie]

Read on giant Miscanthus grass here. Also several companies make screen mixes you can plant strips. Mainly Egyptian wheat and sorghum Sudan with some regular sorghum and Milo to help hold up the taller plants. I’ve had luck with teosinte as a screen. But long term giant Miscanthus is the best if you can grow it in your area.

I’ve reviewed a lot of the threads on miscanthus, including a lot of your contributions on the subject. So, thank you for that! Right now, I am leaning that direction. I’ve also considered a Norway spruce screen which obviously would take more time but I think would also work well in the long run. Perhaps a combination, miscanthus for the short/medium term while the spruce mature.

Not sure when the screen will be done, I’d like to get it started this year but we’ll see jd the time and funds permit. I’ve also begun plans for an orchard at the top of my property nestled in roughly a 2 acre blowdown that I think (if it works) will be a major attraction as it backs up to approx 3,000 acre mountain of undivided hardwood. For that, I’m planning on a variety of crab apples, pears, and some chestnuts.

 

[omicron1792]

I’ve reviewed a lot of the threads on miscanthus, including a lot of your contributions on the subject. So, thank you for that! Right now, I am leaning that direction. I’ve also considered a Norway spruce screen which obviously would take more time but I think would also work well in the long run. Perhaps a combination, miscanthus for the short/medium term while the spruce mature.

Not sure when the screen will be done, I’d like to get it started this year but we’ll see jd the time and funds permit. I’ve also begun plans for an orchard at the top of my property nestled in roughly a 2 acre blowdown that I think (if it works) will be a major attraction as it backs up to approx 3,000 acre mountain of undivided hardwood. For that, I’m planning on a variety of crab apples, pears, and some chestnuts.

Awesome my man. I’ve planted alot of cedars for screen but they take a while. My Miscanthus has done great.

 

[bigboreblr]

Do shor and long term screening. Put the tree you'd like for a permanent screen and plant something for screening. Could be milo, sudan, corn, other tall grasses too. If rain is a major issue eithiopian cabbage. Far as the screening goes, I would do more conventional methods. Tillage and fertilizer. you might have to loose some foodplot space for a few years to give the trees some space from the annual screening tillage. However, you can still do no till close to the trees.