Scared to death to mention it

[Brokenbear]

I have wallerd enough about a no till drill ..and a hand shake over the phone with a gentleman is all I have no .. but he sounds honorable and seemed more interested that it got a good home than anything ..don't know of an option it does not have ..I'll never sleep tonight ...
3P606NT 200 Acres shedded it's entire life

 

[Foggy47]

Beautiful! Dont think twice if the price is right....and you got the tractor for it. With all the money we spend on land.....why not have the right drill? Call me if you need a push. lol.

 

[omicron1792]

I have wallerd enough about a no till drill ..and a hand shake over the phone with a gentleman is all I have no .. but he sounds honorable and seemed more interested that it got a good home than anything ..don't know of an option it does not have ..I'll never sleep tonight ...
3P606NT 200 Acres shedded it's entire life

With the native grass box!!! Wild thing will never let us hear the end of it!!

Congrats.

 

[Wild Thing]

With the native grass box!!! Wild thing will never let us hear the end of it!!

Congrats.

HaHa - Looks like a great machine! I would want mine to go to a good home also. My drill probably has less than 200 acres on it (acre meter broke )...it has been shedded inside its entire life too....but I don't have the NWSG box on mine...and the color matches my tractor better than my Land Pride drill. Better snap it up while it is available.

P.S. I can see that plastic box for the manuals on this drill. Can't remember where they had it mounted on mine when I bought it but I removed it before using the drill as well Foggy. I can see where you would have trouble accessing the seed rate lever with that thing mounted where it is.

 

[Brokenbear]

Beautiful! Dont think twice if the price is right....and you got the tractor for it. With all the money we spend on land.....why not have the right drill? Call me if you need a push. lol.

Thanks Foggy ..13K and I have will have a 600 mile round trip to go get it .. ..I don't see any way to use a front loader with forks to lift this beastie ..but he has a tractor to back on the trailer with IF ..IF his lift arms can lift that high or find a "hump to work off of ..then I suppose strap down strictly off the main frame and leave the straps off the grain boxes seem to have some logic .. (anyone who has hauled one of these while NOT attached to a tractor feel free to chime in) ..I am feeling better in that he has pulled his ad where I found him and has already done due diligence on the banking on our end .. look at what the grain boxes look like ..and suitcase weights to boot

 

[Foggy47]

Thanks Foggy ..13K and I have will have a 600 mile round trip to go get it .. ..I don't see any way to use a front loader with forks to lift this beastie ..but he has a tractor to back on the trailer with IF ..IF his lift arms can lift that high or find a "hump to work off of ..then I suppose strap down strictly off the main frame and leave the straps off the grain boxes seem to have some logic .. (anyone who has hauled one of these while NOT attached to a tractor feel free to chime in) ..I am feeling better in that he has pulled his ad where I found him and has already done due diligence on the banking on our end .. look at what the grain boxes look like ..and suitcase weights to boot

That is a steal. If you want out.....you can make bank on that machine any time you want. I bet the MSRP on a new one is double or more with all that kit. Nice!

If you cannot hook up to the three point......I would invest in a pair of lifting straps. Kinda like the tree saver straps at Harbor freight or anywhere else (Menards?). Maybe a pair of 10 feet long or more. Then you can lift from the frame via forks with a tractor from the side.....and not damage the hoppers. Still....it's allot of weight to pick up with a loader. Also a sheet of plywood will save the coulters and openers from banging too hard on a steel deck.....or cutting into your floor.....as you travel home.

Serious drill envy here.

 

[Foggy47]

I bet you could lift nicely from those weight carrier brackets......and a lifting point in the rear. Chains may work just as well as straps if you keep them clear of the hoppers.

 

[Wild Thing]

Thanks Foggy ..13K and I have will have a 600 mile round trip to go get it .. ..I don't see any way to use a front loader with forks to lift this beastie ..but he has a tractor to back on the trailer with IF ..IF his lift arms can lift that high or find a "hump to work off of ..then I suppose strap down strictly off the main frame and leave the straps off the grain boxes seem to have some logic .. (anyone who has hauled one of these while NOT attached to a tractor feel free to chime in) ..I am feeling better in that he has pulled his ad where I found him and has already done due diligence on the banking on our end .. look at what the grain boxes look like ..and suitcase weights to boot

First photo must be your NWSG box with agitators? I don't have that box on my drill but the next pics of the small box and large box look to be just the same as they are on my drill - LP606NT. I also ordered the weight brackets for my drill but I never bought any of the suitcase weights. I just have not found the need for any more weight so far in 7 years of use. Mine is the pull behind model though - not the 3 Point. Can't help you with best way to load it on a trailer as mine has wheels which may it easier.

 

[Foggy47]

First photo must be your NWSG box with agitators? I don't have that box on my drill but the next pics of the small box and large box look to be just the same as they are on my drill - LP606NT. I also ordered the weight brackets for my drill but I never bought any of the suitcase weights. I just have found the need for any more weight so far in 7 years of use. Mine is the pull behind model thought - not the 3 Point. Can't help you with best way to load it on a trailer as mine has wheels which may it easier.

I have a number of suitcase weights that I accumulated over time. I think some extra weight would help me out a bit......and I may fashion the means to attach a bit of weight. We'll see with more operation. Not even any shine on those openers. Had to be very low use. Also, I see his drive wheel is in the same hole I use on my little drill. In my sand that setting can get plenty deep.

 

[swat1018]

It has holes in the side that are notched for a chain link for tie down holes. Picking it up with a tractor and loader is not going to happen without a lot of ballast on the ass end. Just back on to the trailer and unhook it.

 

[Brokenbear]

Well I have been on youtube looking at set up n field use ..I think the pull type is a more stable platform for even controlled depth planting but unfortunately I cannot get a pull type to 50% of my plots ..
I cannot find but one video where the set up is making sense and it is a factory guy and using a 606NT and not a 3P606NT ...but
It looks to me like the drive tire and the opener T handles on the 3P are going to be real important on consistent depth control for the 3P unit ..saw lots of video with what my very limited current knowledge looked very wrong ..like press wheels not always turning or off the ground entirely ..grain boxes not vertically level.. front rack of the 3 point canted (equivalent of tongue not level on a pull type)
Then again everyone of these named above wrongs I see now may very well be work arounds guys have discovered that actually DO improve some facet of the job the drill is supposed to do ..
Am I thinking right that the lift arms need to ..if possible stay out of the seed depth control or is the nature of the beast forcing some lift arm involvement to keep things running "with in bounds?"

 

[Foggy47]

^. Good questions. My experience with drills tells me that your set up should not rely on the lower links to do anything other than pull the drill through the field. In other words the drill should be level right to left and at the correct depth setting just sitting on the ground. HOWEVER.....your top link can be tweaked a bit to maintain the drive wheel contact and control the depth to a fair extent. I have a hydraulic top link....and will get my drill as level as practical.....and if I see the drive wheel skip even a bit....will pull the top of the drill a bit closer to the tractor (which applies a bit more pressure to the drive wheel). Butter. I highly recommend a hydraulic top link.

One thing about a three point mounted Great Plains drill....is that the drill can pivot a bit right to left on that front drive wheel....especially if you are on uneven ground....or not set up correctly. Thus the drill can plant deeper on one side than the other. It's a pretty sensitive thing IMO. I do not think this is as big of an issue on the pull type drills....but have no experience to base this on.

I do think this drive wheel location is somewhat of a weak link in these 3 point mounted drills. OTOH....some complain about the drive wheel located on one side due to similar issues. I think that Etch drill may have a better solution with the drive wheel in the back. Maybe the best is a drive wheel on both sides.....but this takes up real estate. I wonder if that front drive wheel was spring loaded if the problem would be solved?? Dunno. It works....but you need to know its limitations. You will learn how in short order.

 

[swat1018]

Drop it all the way, let the drill do its thing. The drive wheel needs set where it turns constantly with no skipping. Most find it a hole or probably 2 too high from the factory. Once you get it set, you can forget the drive wheel. Drop it, drag it 10' or so and let it cut in, then put a level on the box lid and get it level with the top link. It really isn't going to be as tough as you think...

 

[swat1018]

^. Good questions. My experience with drills tells me that your set up should not rely on the lower links to do anything other than pull the drill through the field. In other words the drill should be level right to left and at the correct depth setting just sitting on the ground. HOWEVER.....your top link can be tweaked a bit to maintain the drive wheel contact and control the depth to a fair extent. I have a hydraulic top link....and will get my drill as level as practical.....and if I see the drive wheel skip even a bit....will pull the top of the drill a bit closer to the tractor (which applies a bit more pressure to the drive wheel). Butter. I highly recommend a hydraulic top link.

One thing about a three point mounted Great Plains drill....is that the drill can pivot a bit right to left on that front drive wheel....especially if you are on uneven ground....or not set up correctly. Thus the drill can plant deeper on one side than the other. It's a pretty sensitive thing IMO. I do not think this is as big of an issue on the pull type drills....but have no experience to base this on.

Why not just lower the wheel a hole or two and leave the drill level? That's why there is adjustment for it on the frame.

 

[Foggy47]

^. Yep. Agreed. That is what I did too.

 

[Brian662]

That's a smoking deal, congrats. I have the 3p600 showing up this winter and I'm excited to get that thing rolling. Let us know how your setup and initial reactions go.

 

[TreeDaddy]

Drop it all the way, let the drill do its thing. The drive wheel needs set where it turns constantly with no skipping. Most find it a hole or probably 2 too high from the factory. Once you get it set, you can forget the drive wheel. Drop it, drag it 10' or so and let it cut in, then put a level on the box lid and get it level with the top link. It really isn't going to be as tough as you think...

This^^^^

Resist the tendency to overthink (like I did)

There is definitely a learning curve ,but its not steep

Enjoy

bill

 

[Wind Gypsy]

nice score! How did you come across that deal?

 

[Brokenbear]

Just keep looking and that is not a wise butt comment ..every morning with a cuppa joe I sit up right in a chair waiting to get my back functional after laying in bed 6 hours a night ...
And I'm on my computer checking Ag auctions, Equipment Traders, farm equipment for sale and shockingly Facebook Market Place ...
I actually had 3 different units "zeroed in" when I pulled the trigger on this one and two of the three were via Facebook
Understand I faithfully looked for a long time and then bang 3 possibles show up within 2 days of each other so be patient and be ready to move both physically and financially QUICKLY to seal the deal ..
I tell the folks right up front I wish to negotiate on the price if they have some room on the asking price and that I do not wish to impose on them any longer if there is not some middle road price room
Actually I had 4 spotted one in Texas, Mississippi, Illinois and the one I bought
Texas is a 3P600 and still available 12.5K
MS is now sold and it was a LP 3P606NT / 14K
IL I think is still available a GP 3P606NT very shinny like 5/6 years old 15.5K
Those were the listed asking prices

Bear

 

[Bill]

This^^^^

Resist the tendency to overthink (like I did)

There is definitely a learning curve ,but its not steep

Enjoy

bill

I’ll second that. I used to be off the tractor more then on it, check depth, side to side depth, seed depth etc.
Now I just put my head down and go.