Bur,I have some crabs or near crabs that I like for deer and for human use.
Some should be available for next spring. I think they will be on dolgo rootstock.
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Is Buckman crab on the list? That one looks good from what I remember on previous posts
I would recommend Kerr as well. I still had them hanging and firm on thanksgiving. I am trying to figure out grafting so I can spread my native tree, Kerr, and one other wild crab near my house. This other tree was grafted this year up north and I had some take so I will be testing zone hardiness this winter. It has 2” apples that start dropping in November and go all the way through March with some rotting on tree. Tree has a big elm growing through center of it and is still loaded every year. I can hook you up with some scion of that tree to. If it passes the zone 3 test it will be a home run.
Any other “standouts”? How do Liberty, Enterprise, Galarina, and Honey Crisp score?
They would all score high on my list. All great applesAny other “standouts”? How do Liberty, Enterprise, Galarina, and Honey Crisp score?
I would give Liberty and Honeycrisp tied for 1st for my area. Enterprise is great but is somewhat biannual producing. Galarina in 5th leaf and still no fruit. Lost several to winter kill.Any other “standouts”? How do Liberty, Enterprise, Galarina, and Honey Crisp score?
Is it possible moving them to the upper deck is Heat stressing the varieties of trees that you are growing in pots. Are the pots black? My thoughts are, I am not familiar with any disease that causes the leaves to grow limp. Firelight is easy to identify taking on the look of a witches crook where the leaves turn black. It takes a while for the FB to translocate to the root system and eventually killing the tree/s. Stark bros is in the same zone that you are in 7A. Stark this past year had grown around 9000 Franklins. There has been no reports of a disease endemic to the nursery site that has killed off any Franklins. My thoughts are the roots system may be drying quickly on the "upper deck" which would also explain loss of other varieties you mentioned. Does this only happen to trees when moved to the upper deck? How are they potted? Usually, when a number of trees die under the same circumstances there is something wrong site specific that is causing the problem. I doubt it is Fire blight killing you trees. Could you provide more details as to the following questions:Franklin's are certainly an interesting apple for wildlife, but they are susceptible to some disease. I bought a pair of them this spring from Stark. They were bare root. I potted them up in 3 gal RB2s and started them early under lights. They arrived about the same time I was grafting GRIN scions to M111 and doing the same with them. These were very nice sized Franklins with ok looking root systems.
The Franklins grew great and each had at least 6" of new growth height as well as lots of leaves on the trunk. When the weather broke, I took all my trees out on my lower deck. It gets a little early morning sun and then the sun is indirect. Eventually I move my trees to the upper deck that gets full sun all morning but is shaded in the afternoon.
The Franklins never made it. They, along with some of the grafted trees that had good growth, got some kind of disease and died. I don't have any idea what the disease is. I had my first experience with it last year. I had grafted GRIN scions to seedling rootstock. The disease seemed to move from tree to tree, if they were touching, but not all trees seed susceptible. Some that were touching affected trees did not get it, and some that were a few trees away did, but direct contact seemed to increase the spread. Whatever the disease is, it also moved to my Seguins and killed them. The symptoms were that the new green growth would go limp. Once it started, I could find no way to stop it and the tree would eventually die. Moving a tree from other infected trees and clipping of the limp growth as soon as I saw it did not stop the disease. All trees that got it eventually died.
This year, only a few trees got it, but it included the pair of Franklins. I don't know the source. I thought maybe the seedlings I used were an issue last year, but I did not use any seedlings this year. Another possibility is that some particular variety from GRIN was the source. It is a mystery to me.
At any rate, I emailed Stark to let them know. I did not ask them to do anything, I was just documenting the loss. I presumed they would reply to the email asking me what I wanted to do. They did not. Instead, I got a shipping email that they had shipped two more trees. I probably would have preferred receiving them next year because it was fairly late, but since I'm growing these on my deck for the first growing season, I was ok with it.
The new trees were not nearly as large as the originals, but they had somewhat better roots. They were just starting to leaf out when they arrived. I potted them up and they have been growing vigorously on my deck ever since. They look very healthy and seem to be strong growers.
In defense of the Franklin, I will say that I'm out of the recommended zone for Franklin. It may be that whatever the disease is, it is more advantaged in my zone than further north in the recommended zones for Franklin. I'm in 7A.
Thanks,
Jack
Is it possible moving them to the upper deck is Heat stressing the varieties of trees that you are growing in pots. Are the pots black? My thoughts are, I am not familiar with any disease that causes the leaves to grow limp. Firelight is easy to identify taking on the look of a witches crook where the leaves turn black. It takes a while for the FB to translocate to the root system and eventually killing the tree/s. Stark bros is in the same zone that you are in 7A. Stark this past year had grown around 9000 Franklins. There has been no reports of a disease endemic to the nursery site that has killed off any Franklins. My thoughts are the roots system may be drying quickly on the "upper deck" which would also explain loss of other varieties you mentioned. Does this only happen to trees when moved to the upper deck? How are they potted? Usually, when a number of trees die under the same circumstances there is something wrong site specific that is causing the problem. I doubt it is Fire blight killing you trees. Could you provide more details as to the following questions:
1) Are the trees grown in black plastic pots.
2) How hot did it get before the trees died?
3) How often are they watered?
4) Do you have this problem with trees planted and growing on the property?
5) Could you be more specific about the new growth going "limp"?
6) Can you provide a picture/s?
Jack
Is it phytophthora?
Honeycrisp is moderately susceptible to foliar scab especially during a wet spring. The apples are resistant to scab. I have a commercial orchard with about 225 honeycrisp which have had sufficient cover sprays with the fungicide sprays Captain and Sovran with great efficacy. My home Honeycrisp were not sprayed because of my duties at my store and at the orchard and look very much like what you showed in the photo. I would say you may have some scab on the leaves due to a wetter spring season.I planted this Honeycrisp on b118 in April. It looks pretty bad with a few brown leaves. What do you guys think caused this?
I am pretty confident scab is not the problem with the Franklin and may be more soil driven since you state every apple tree in the sandy plot had the same disease. Even though you may have irrigated during a hot summer in sandy soil it may have not be enough. The Franklin has been nursery tested and observed at many sites with no scab reported. I have around 35 Franklins growing in my orchard and tree plots for wildlife. The parent tree and those located at the wildlife plots are not sprayed and have never showed scab. Hopefully, you will be able to figure out the cause of the problem at the sandy plot.I planted a bunch of franklins on b118 rootstock in 2017- I believe they were from Cummings, but im not 100% sure. The franklins grown on fair or good dirt did great and grew better than other varieties. I have high hopes for them. I planted one Franklin from that same order in a sandy area and it has really struggled with what I think is scab. It was completely defoliate D a couple weeks ago despite spraying the trees a couple times this spring. This happened the prior year as well. To be fair, every apple tree in that sandy plot had the same disease, but I don't think it would be accurate to describe franklins as disease free on all soil types.
I'm not sure exactly what is causing the mid summer loss of leaves on the trees here, but the symptoms most closely matched scab from what I could tell. The trees there look great, them like a switch in mid summer all the leaves fall off. Then a few weeks later some new leaves start to grow.I am pretty confident scab is not the problem with the Franklin and may be more soil driven since you state every apple tree in the sandy plot had the same disease. Even though you may have irrigated during a hot summer in sandy soil it may have not be enough. The Franklin has been nursery tested and observed at many sites with no scab reported. I have around 35 Franklins growing in my orchard and tree plots for wildlife. The parent tree and those located at the wildlife plots are not sprayed and have never showed scab. Hopefully, you will be able to figure out the cause of the problem at the sandy plot.
As a wildlife manager I have been upgrading my apple tree plots for wildlife for years to introduce varieties that meet the highest score of desirability. All varieties of apples have their merits, but only a few select will meet the gold standard of achievement for being in the category of being the best to manage to meet your wildlife and hunting objectives. A stand out for me is the Franklin Cider and I score it 10/11 for the following categories. I know many of you have grown from seed and have tried many varieties I have not grown on my property. I am asking you to score your favorite/s and to share with me your experience and recommendations:
FRANKLIN CIDER
1) Scab free/resistant Yes
2) CAR free/resistant Yes
3) FB free/resistant Yes
4) Good/Excellent Annual Bearing Yes
5) Winter-hardiness (to zone 3b) Yes
6) Brix (sugar) apple >15 Yes (Franklin 19.5 brix)
7) Vigorous Grower Yes
8) Apple hang well into December or later Yes
9) Early bearing (by second leaf) Yes
10) Dessert apple/ for eating No
11) Recommended zones 3 - 7 Yes
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10 out of 11 score