laser bore sight tools

[j-bird]

Has any of you had much luck/use with the laser bore sight tools out there?

I got a new scope for my 22-250 and as such I have to change the rings and the like (tube changed from 1" to 30mm, and objective lens size increased as well). So that means having to re-zero the gun. With the limited availability of ammo and the increased cost of ammo these days....I am considering getting one of the sighting tools. From what I am seeing (looking at Lasermark bore sight) - to buy the tool it will cost me roughly the same as a box of ammo (Midway USA lists tool for $30 - ammo is being listed at $25-$30 a box....when I can find it).

My plan would be to start at 100 yards....and then eventually set my zero at 200 yards.

I also see other options, but not sure what works and what doesn't. I like the idea of the laser actually passing thru the bore vs some sort of "adapter" that goes into the muzzle.....but I am interested in "realistically priced functionality" in the end. The nice thing about those that go into the muzzle is that most seem they can be used for other calibers as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[omicron1792]

Has any of you had much luck/use with the laser bore sight tools out there?

I got a new scope for my 22-250 and as such I have to change the rings and the like (tube changed from 1" to 30mm, and objective lens size increased as well). So that means having to re-zero the gun. With the limited availability of ammo and the increased cost of ammo these days....I am considering getting one of the sighting tools. From what I am seeing (looking at Lasermark bore sight) - to buy the tool it will cost me roughly the same as a box of ammo (Midway USA lists tool for $30 - ammo is being listed at $25-$30 a box....when I can find it).

My plan would be to start at 100 yards....and then eventually set my zero at 200 yards.

I also see other options, but not sure what works and what doesn't. I like the idea of the laser actually passing thru the bore vs some sort of "adapter" that goes into the muzzle.....but I am interested in "realistically priced functionality" in the end. The nice thing about those that go into the muzzle is that most seem they can be used for other calibers as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

I use them to simply get on paper at 25 yards. That is the limit of their efficacy.

I have both types. The bullet shaped ones are cheap and don’t seat well. I have a better one that fits in end of barrel and has adapters for different calibers. It is much much better.

And, all it does is gets you on paper for quicker sighting.

 

[Bill]

If it’s a bolt action take the bolt out, sand bag it and look through the barrel to get the target in the barrel. Adjust the scope so they match. Good as any bore sighted.

 

[Native Hunter]

I can sometimes get within 4 inches at 100 yards doing what Bill said. Be sure to center your eye in the barrel. Also make the bore sight a few inches above the crosshairs. Try about a 5 inch difference. This is because you want to be hitting a little high at 100 and your bullet drops some from the line of sight.

 

[Foggy47]

I manufactured a laser bore sighting system.....up until about 2003. I suppose we sold a couple thousand of them. I spent considerable time and effort to make a system....but the oriental sources were so much cheaper priced. Not one of my better accomplishmets at making stuff. Tho I had a really nice product planned.....at the end of the day it was not financially feasible to prejudice the product at the costs I could attain at thst time.

Couple things about laser sighting.. As said they can produce a dot to align your sights at 25 yards in reasonable light (more if you use reflective paper or something like a license plate). We were able to produce a spot at 100 yards or more on reflective paper. I still use them occasionally.....but mostly, I agree with Bill. Just take your bolt out and look through the barrel and set your sights on a similar spot at 25 yards. Then do adjusting as you shoot the gun at longer ranges.

Keep in mind....that the barrel and sights can be PEFECTLY aligned on the same point of impact visually......but barrel harmonics and barrel "whip" can very well prevent the gun from shooting your calculated aim point. Every gun (and barrel) is it's own person......and most will shoot to different point of impact than you cn calculate visually or with a laser. Ive witnessed up to 12" of variation at 25 yards in some exteeme examples....but normally a few inches.

My 2 cents.

Edit: I sometimes use a until that fits most calibers via a interchangeable plastic arbor that attaches at the end of your barrel (in addition to the one I made). It is of detent quality and easily provides a decent dot at 25 yards. I think I got it for free....but have seen them sell for under $20. and they are decent enough. Still....looing through the barrel is better IMO. Just set your gun on sandbags and find the POI by looking thought the barrel.....and set your sights on that same spot. (at 25 yards0.

 

[omicron1792]

Lots of my rifles are not bolt action.

Cool story Foggy. I knew you were a renaissance man.

 

[omicron1792]

Also on a quick and dirty I like to sight in at 25 yards. Puts you about dead on at 200. Also basically gives you about a 3” total rise/fall target out to 300. So you can shoot anything in reasonable hunting range and know you’ll hit within 3 inches of your aim point.

 

[Foggy47]

one interesting side light I learned about lasers.......is that as the (plastic) lens warms up just a bit.....the light beam was altered somewhat and the point of aim would shift (at least on our units it did). I had a laser could be mounted in the scope rings and another in the bore. After they would stand a few minutes the dots would move. drove me buggy....lol. Perfection is hard to attain.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

If it’s a bolt action take the bolt out, sand bag it and look through the barrel to get the target in the barrel. Adjust the scope so they match. Good as any bore sighted.

^This. Don't waste your money on one of those things. No issue doing the same with break actions or AR type rifles either. You can start at 25 yards with a single shot to verify offset if you cant see down the bore.

I can typically get on an 11x18" paper 1st shot @ 100 yards just by eyeballing down the bore and adjusting the scope. Usually with front bipod and rear bags on a bench, bipod keeps the rifle from settling/tilting and you just need to have a solid rear bag setup to keep it in place.

-1 shot on paper after bore sighting with eyes
-measure elevation/windage offsets from point of impact to point of aim, make appropriate adjustments to scope. Having a mil/MOA based reticle makes measuring offset very easy without walking to target with a ruler/tape measure
-shoot a group after adjustment
-Measure offset from center of group to point of aim and make any necessary corrections
-Shoot to confirm corrections

With most of my accurate bolt rifles, this process takes less than 10 rounds to have a good zero.

Edit to add: @ 100 yards there is minimal impacts from atmospherics on most centerfire cartridges (as long as wind isn't howling). As you go further out, you are more likely to induce errors in your zero from the atmospheric conditions at the time. To get a 200 yard zero with most 22-250 ammo you'll want to set zero 1" high at 100 yards, super light fast stuff might be closer to 0.75". By all means confirm this at 200 yards but if your windage is off (after confirming straight above POA @ 100 yards), don't adjust your zero for it because you'll only be zeroing for the conditions at that time which could be the exact opposite direction of where conditions push your bullet next time you're shooting.

 

[j-bird]

First of all - thank you all for your replies. I figured a few folks would be familiar with them.

I was under the impression that the laser would reach further. I typically bore sight when I can, but I thought the laser may be a better option....sounds like that isn't the case.

I wasn't going to spend alot.....but it sounds like if I do get one I should get one that goes in the muzzle, and at least offers me the flexibility of different calibers as well as different style actions as well.

I appreciate the feedback......the yotes however I am sure will grossly object!!! But that's the point!

 

[bigboreblr]

first box of ammo is always a cheap one.

I do the eye it through the bore too.

IF you gun is way off, usually something with the rings or mounts. Often, you need to make sure everything is mounted right by taking it off an on again.

Used to work at my towns hunting club public sight in day a week or two before rifle season....... Some things cant be unseen.......

 

[Foggy47]

first box of ammo is always a cheap one.

I do the eye it through the bore too.

IF you gun is way off, usually something with the rings or mounts. Often, you need to make sure everything is mounted right by taking it off an on again.

Used to work at my towns hunting club public sight in day a week or two before rifle season....... Some things cant be unseen.......

Yep....I've seen some of those clown shows too at the range.....and would help a few when I could. Had one guy I ran into.....and he thought he liked his crosshairs in a "X "shape......so he mounted his scope at a 45 degree angle and had to move both windage and elevation knobs to make a change in one direction. lol. guy was a basket case. Took a bit to convince him otherwise.

 

[b116757]

I have a magnetic laser bore sighter you just stick on the end of the barrel that’s not very good better if you rotate it and center your sights on the difference between the two different spots that the laser paints.

 

[Booner21]

I do very similar to others start at 25 get really close then move to 100. Also one trick that has helped me is shooting a shot at 100 then using a lead sled or clamp and putting the crosshairs back on the bullseye I then adjust adjust the scope while keeping the gun still until the crosshairs are on the bullet impact. Usually can have a gun sighted in in 2-3 shots at 100. I then usually shoot a group to confirm. If you have a steady rest this method works well.

Under 6 shots usually total outside of the group to confirm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[yoderjac]

Has any of you had much luck/use with the laser bore sight tools out there?

I got a new scope for my 22-250 and as such I have to change the rings and the like (tube changed from 1" to 30mm, and objective lens size increased as well). So that means having to re-zero the gun. With the limited availability of ammo and the increased cost of ammo these days....I am considering getting one of the sighting tools. From what I am seeing (looking at Lasermark bore sight) - to buy the tool it will cost me roughly the same as a box of ammo (Midway USA lists tool for $30 - ammo is being listed at $25-$30 a box....when I can find it).

My plan would be to start at 100 yards....and then eventually set my zero at 200 yards.

I also see other options, but not sure what works and what doesn't. I like the idea of the laser actually passing thru the bore vs some sort of "adapter" that goes into the muzzle.....but I am interested in "realistically priced functionality" in the end. The nice thing about those that go into the muzzle is that most seem they can be used for other calibers as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

One thing to think about is the action. I have some break actions that are pretty easy. I put it in the gun vice with the action open and point it out a window. I wait until night and look through the barrel and point it a a distant street light. With the gun in that fixed position, I adjust the scope. At 100 yards I'm rarely off more than a few inches.

With a bolt action you you may be able to remove the bolt depending on the firearm.

A pump or semi-auto is a bit tougher.

Another thing to think about. In the old days, I just take a shot, and WAG the amount of adjustment until I had things dialed in. Now, we each shot being precious, I make sure my target is level and I measure the amount I'm off at 100 yards and do the math to figure out how many clicks to move the turret. Takes fewer shots to dial it in.

I have a roll of paper that I use for paper tuning compound bows. I sheet of that behind the target is good insurance that you don't end up off paper with your first shot.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[b116757]

I have a 2’ wide roll of paper in the shop I usually tear off a 3’ piece and put it at about 25 yards take a shot or two to get the bullets hitting near the point of aim then move the target to 100yds generally takes less than 10 rounds to be sighted in.

 

[Foggy47]

Back in time when I did allot of shooting......I'd use some nylon v-blocks and set my scope in them. Then slowly rotate the scope to "zero" the crosshairs in the center of the glass. Keeping the crosshairs in center of the lenses pretty much eliminates parralax in your scope. Then I'd spend some time lapping the scope rings and shimming the elevation or adjusting the windage bases to get the scope mounted with the crosshairs still centered as much as practical. Kinda tedious work.

However, doing so, usually requires only a few clicks to get the crosshairs on target......and prevented (to a large extent) the effects of parallax especially in long range shooting....by keeping the crosshairs and your vision centered in the lenses.....rather than the outer edges of the glass....where it becomes distorted. Perhaps this is not practical for all guns.....but when shooting small targets at long-ranges....or competitive shooting....you need all the help you can get.

Later, I made molds for plastic v-blocks and sold a few sets. Strangely not many of those highly-useful v-blocks were sold. I suppose mort folks didnt take the time to do such nonsense. Grin.

 

[birdog]

I have the Sightmark Triple Duty Universal Bore Sighter with the green laser. It's magnetic, sticks to the end of your barrel and works great. Like others have said, looking through your barrel is a great method when you can use it. For those times when you can't it's tough to beat a bore sighter in my opinion.

 

[birdog]

I do very similar to others start at 25 get really close then move to 100. Also one trick that has helped me is shooting a shot at 100 then using a lead sled or clamp and putting the crosshairs back on the bullseye I then adjust adjust the scope while keeping the gun still until the crosshairs are on the bullet impact. Usually can have a gun sighted in in 2-3 shots at 100. I then usually shoot a group to confirm. If you have a steady rest this method works well.

Under 6 shots usually total outside of the group to confirm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great tip Booner. I have a Tipton ultra gun vise that can really lock your rifle down solid. Your method of using your lead sled and then moving the cross hairs from dead center of the target to the center of your group works great. 3 good shots, adjust the cross hairs accordingly, 3 more to confirm if you wish and you're done.

 

[356]

While late to the post, as a former gun shop owner and current FFL, I helped customers sight in rifles for years. Laser bore sights became all of the range in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Most of us in the industry spent $$ on getting bore sights for every caliber imaginable--which meant that you always had a customer coming in with something unique that you did not have, OR the one you needed had somehow walked home. But now to the question. Yes, they work. No, I do not recommend them. Why--because it's another tool that requires batteries, costs money and is unnecessary. I am not anti-bore sights--I just have not found them to be game changers or time savers.

* Getting a firearm on target should involve traditional bore sighting for firearms with removable bolts or breech plugs.
* For other firearms, start close--15 yards, then 50, then 100 or wherever you want to end up. Time behind the trigger is time well spent!
Having a solid vice is important, but sandbags can work in a field situation (such as happened to me recently--we added a first time hunter and had to purchase an additional firearm and sight it in at camp).

If you get a bore sight, green is far more visible than red. And as others have noted, a bore sight is to get you on paper, not to dial you in.