GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

[Foggy47]

You don’t have to buy it. It’s been told to you for free.

T handle for press wheels give you how far in the trench the seed is pressed. Has 0.000 to do with how deep the trench is. That’s set by slot where the wheel is.

View attachment 56933

I think we are getting into a grey area here. As both can have some effect IMO. But my wheel was way too deep for my uses and was located in hole 3....I moved it down to 5....and later to 6. I am happy with 6.

I don't recall for sure....but I think the way the factory ships them....they are in 5 or 6. When my drive wheel was located in hole number 3 I had to push the front of the drill higher to get the depth I was looking for.......and then I would lose the drive wheel contact with the ground. All better now.

I don't suppose they would have all those hole if it was a one and done affair. lol.

 

[Brokenbear]

I am pretty sure the manual declares for a 3P606NT that there are 10 points of contact that 100% determine the seed planting depth and that is the settings on the 9 "Tee handles on the closer wheel assembly and the front drive tire

Common sense also alerts you to the variables of the manual's statement as to depth control when ground conditions are considered such as moisture content, plant debris and soil compaction like worked ground vs sod like ground vs crusted dirt etc. etc

A month or so ago was my first "play day" with my 3P606NT and I must say I spent many days before the actual field use studying the books, plant rate setting charts and proccedures as well as pre-use maintenance, greasing, chain lubing, chain tightening, dropped the drive wheel to 2nd from bottom hole (still planted 3/4" in crusty smooth clay ground and was looking for an ideal 1/2")
Fortunately I was in the "ball park" with my main box seeds that went into the trench and with a Great Plains there is really know way even I can screw up the planting deptth of seed from the small box!

So that tells me soft ground.. if I am wanting 1/2" to 1" I will likely need the bottom hole
This is ALL predicated on maintaining the exact factory specs as to air pressure on the drive tire (and drive tire hole setting of course) ..so if you start at 50 PSI and do a bunch of planting and note taking but by the 3rd day If your PSI has dropped to say 40 PSI ..all knowledge gained MAY be for nothing ..I do not know the exact extent this will impact the planting rates as I maintain (check) the air a couple times during planting as well as at start up of each session ..
And of course air pressure up and down will also mean planting rates will go up and down ..so staying on top of PSI seems to be an important point of attention

Bear

 

[omicron1792]

I am pretty sure the manual declares for a 3P606NT that there are 10 points of contact that 100% determine the seed planting depth and that is the settings on the 9 "Tee handles on the closer wheel assembly and the front drive tire

Common sense also alerts you to the variables of the manual's statement as to depth control when ground conditions are considered such as moisture content, plant debris and soil compaction like worked ground vs sod like ground vs crusted dirt etc. etc

A month or so ago was my first "play day" with my 3P606NT and I must say I spent many days before the actual field use studying the books, plant rate setting charts and proccedures as well as pre-use maintenance, greasing, chain lubing, chain tightening, dropped the drive wheel to 2nd from bottom hole (still planted 3/4" in crusty smooth clay ground and was looking for an ideal 1/2")
Fortunately I was in the "ball park" with my main box seeds that went into the trench and with a Great Plains there is really know way even I can screw up the planting deptth of seed from the small box!

So that tells me soft ground.. if I am wanting 1/2" to 1" I will likely need the bottom hole
This is ALL predicated on maintaining the exact factory specs as to air pressure on the drive tire (and drive tire hole setting of course) ..so if you start at 50 PSI and do a bunch of planting and note taking but by the 3rd day If your PSI has dropped to say 40 PSI ..all knowledge gained MAY be for nothing ..I do not know the exact extent this will impact the planting rates as I maintain (check) the air a couple times during planting as well as at start up of each session ..
And of course air pressure up and down will also mean planting rates will go up and down ..so staying on top of PSI seems to be an important point of attention

Bear

I hope you’re having fun with it my man.

The t handles control how deep in the trench the seed is pressed. But not how deep the actual trench is. That is done by adjusting the drive wheel location and the large springs on top of the coulters.

 

[Foggy47]

I noticed a substantial change in depth by changing that front drive wheel hole location. I am in the 3rd hole from the bottom......and feel I could one one less deep. While I think keeping that tire inflated is important.....I doubt that 10 lbs different in pressure will make much difference. Just keep the tire fully inflated (hard) and you will be fine.

When setting up my drill.....I carefully watch the point where the hydraulic top link "relaxes" it's push vs pull on the drill. You can see it change from tension to no pressure to tension. I want to use the point where there is no effect on the drill.

To me, keeping the drill relatively level (without undue force by the top-link) and using those closing wheels to tweak the depth is key. Then just let the drill to it's thing as you pull it about your property.

 

[swat1018]

I hope you’re having fun with it my man.

The t handles control how deep in the trench the seed is pressed. But not how deep the actual trench is. That is done by adjusting the drive wheel location and the large springs on top of the coulters.

That doesn't make sense. The seeds levitate somewhere above the bottom of the trench? The "T" handle raises and lowers the press wheel which raises and lowers the row unit, including the double disc openers. I'll give you that the drive wheel does alter coulter depth some.

 

[Brokenbear]

Absolutely enjoying it and the accompanying challenges!
It really is an awesome piece of equipment..
And you folks on here have really contributed to the pleasure of learning the ups n downs of this machine

Bear

 

[omicron1792]

Absolutely enjoying it and the accompanying challenges!
It really is an awesome piece of equipment..
And you folks on here have really contributed to the pleasure of learning the ups n downs of this machine

Bear

Glad to have you my man. It’s a good group of guys.

 

[Brokenbear]

You know my only true aggravation during planting was was unseen spider “sticky sacks” that plugged half my small seed drops for the first half day of planting .. and of course they did it independently one at a time.. most times at the point of the drop hose at the connection point of the hard drop tube
Any magic solution to this problem ?

I know this year when finally done I am pulling all drop tubes off to silicone treat the outside tube walls

I am also playing with converting the small seed box hoses to clear tubing to catch blockages sooner .. I see more used drills with clear tubing (which may be only because of easy/cheaper replacement) but also if you have a blockage .. think how many yards you would travel to fill your tube with tiny seeds before overflow showing at the top.. or maybe I am overthinking this again

Bear

 

[Foggy47]

I have not had the spider issues that some others have reported. Maybe it's different parts of the country? Dunno. I have been stuffing dryer sheets in each seed cup....to prevent any potential mouse of spider issues. Sometimes mice will chew on plastics.....something to be aware of. I do not have mouse issues.....but I still take preventative action just in case. I did consider removing those small seedbed hoses....but they are such a PITA to reconnect that I left them hooked up.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

Stuffing dryer sheets in the tubes works for spiders/mice, just a bit of a nuisance if you’re going to use the drill a bunch of times in a season to stick em in and remove them a bunch of times.

 

[Foggy47]

Stuffing dryer sheets in the tubes works for spiders/mice, just a bit of a nuisance if you’re going to use the drill a bunch of times in a season to stick em in and remove them a bunch of times.

^ That's why I been stuffing them in the seed cups. I'm hoping that the odor from the dryer sheets down the tubes to be enough to keep out the critters? Pretty quick and dirty to stuff them in the seed cup openings. I've not had issues.....so....I'm just going to keep doing it the easy way. (knock on wood)

I suppose if I was concerned or had more issues.....I may stuff another sheet between the openers. May help in some areas?

 

[TreeDaddy]

What is the capacity of the main seed box of the 3pt606NT Great Plains drill?

Owners manual says 12 bushels

So....... how many 50# bags of mixed seed would this be?

Or put another way, how many pounds of seed would the main box hold?

bill

 

[omicron1792]

What is the capacity of the main seed box of the 3pt606NT Great Plains drill?

Owners manual says 12 bushels

So....... how many 50# bags of mixed seed would this be?

Or put another way, how many pounds of seed would the main box hold?

bill

Mine will hold over 500lbs of seed

 

[swat1018]

What is the capacity of the main seed box of the 3pt606NT Great Plains drill?

Owners manual says 12 bushels

So....... how many 50# bags of mixed seed would this be?

Or put another way, how many pounds of seed would the main box hold?

bill

A bushel of rye weighs 56#. Depends on the test weight of the grain...

 

[Foggy47]

I've put six bags of rye into the large hopper of my 3P 500. Also had some radish mixed in. Perhaps 400 lbs total.......and had a little room left in that box.

I believe I got nearly one bushel of a blend into the small seed box......and that was full.

I was able to fully drill 3 acres with this combo.

 

[Brokenbear]

I know this original post was just about total capacity but now is a good time to do mention that SOME singular (not mixed) seeds are best to not fill to capacity due to “lodging” .. the phenomenon of the grain “stacking” allowing the seed to build an “igloo” above the feed cup and stopping or interrupting the seed flow to the cup which of course causes that row to be void of seed placement
The shape of the seed, weight of the seed and the presence or lack of presence of an agitator are the primary factors to lodging
I practice .. especially on the large box when using some quirky shaped seeds to fill to anywhere from 1/4 to 2/3 full to improve reliability of seed flow.. buckwheat and some sunflower seeds come to mind when being planted as the sole seed in the box.
Agitators are not a must when a bit of logic is applied

Bear

 

[Wind Gypsy]

A bushel of rye weighs 56#. Depends on the test weight of the grain...

^This. Total weight depends on # per bushel of whatever you're planting.

Standard Weights per Bushel for Agricultural Commodities

Find standard weights per bushel for common agricultural commodities at SmallFarmCanad.ca

www.smallfarmcanada.ca

 

[TreeDaddy]

^This. Total weight depends on # per bushel of whatever you're planting.

Standard Weights per Bushel for Agricultural Commodities

Find standard weights per bushel for common agricultural commodities at SmallFarmCanad.ca

www.smallfarmcanada.ca

thanks for the link

very helpful

bill

 

[WKyGasDoc]

My fields are near totally flat, they just aren't smooth. They are converted hay fields that have depressions in the direction of tractor travel from 30+ years of the ground being hayed without any tillage. Drilling in the same direction of these works well as the springs from each row seem to do their job adjusting for minor elevation changes. It's when I go perpendicular that it feels like constant small speed bumps. With a pull type drill there haven't been any issues caused by rear tractor tires rolling over these shallow bumps. I worry that with a 3point drill will be significantly more sensitive to crossing these bumps and this is why i felt floating the top link might allow the drill to roll with things a bit better. I hate to break ground that hasn't been broken in 30+ years but might do it to improve smoothness and also incorporate lime/fert. Stuff is growing well though even with low pH and P & K readings.

Ok I get this, So I have a 70 hp Kubota. Has the float control which I DO NOT know how to use for this or for a box blade. How do you set up for planter

 

[WKyGasDoc]

You know my only true aggravation during planting was was unseen spider “sticky sacks” that plugged half my small seed drops for the first half day of planting .. and of course they did it independently one at a time.. most times at the point of the drop hose at the connection point of the hard drop tube
Any magic solution to this problem ?

I know this year when finally done I am pulling all drop tubes off to silicone treat the outside tube walls

I am also playing with converting the small seed box hoses to clear tubing to catch blockages sooner .. I see more used drills with clear tubing (which may be only because of easy/cheaper replacement) but also if you have a blockage .. think how many yards you would travel to fill your tube with tiny seeds before overflow showing at the top.. or maybe I am overthinking this again

Bear

Someone on here suggested using rubber stoppers to plugg up the tubes. 3 years and no spider webs. I think they posted pics also