GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

I believe when I ordered my new one this spring, an agitator was an option.
 
Did I miss it, have you given up on the Esch drill? Just trying something different? Either way, congrats on the new unit!

I haven’t given up on it, I’m very happy with it and it did a great job for me this year. It’s just that I came across an unused 2014 3p600 for $11.2k yesterday and jumped on it. I like the idea of covering ground faster with a wider drill and kind of figured I could get that much for the esch.
 
I have never seen one of these drills with an agitator in it.....but only have seen about a dozen now. I think you can add an agitator if you want, but I would bet not many have. I mixed over 1000 lbs of seed today and drilled it into my plots. There were times I thought an agittotor would be nice. I was looking for my spiral paint mixer......but could not find that sucker today. It could have saved me some time and energy today. I drilled over 8 acres today.....and about ten total this week. Everything worked as planned. Now we just need some rain.

Anyway....congrats on a great find. I'm sure it will serve you well.
Mine has an agitator Foggy
 
I have no agitator in the main seed box. Wouldn't want it because at times I've used cardboard and duct tape to create funnels and block off every other row. (Planting Corn)
 
Do you feel it accomplishes things for you?
Probably that I can be lazy and pour seeds in without mixing and knowing they will get mixed. Haha
 
I had some AW Peas that I wanted to use up. I was set up on the # 1 slot on the seed cups.....and poured a few seeds into one of the seed drop areas.....and turned the crank to be sure they could feed through the setting . Worked slick with no broken seeds. So.....after filling my large seed hopper nearly to the top......I took a few lbs of those AW Peas and spread them on top of the winter rye / radish / peas blend in the hoppers. I checked on the hopper at about 1/2 though it......and the layer of peas on the top of that predominately rye seed was not evident to my eye. It had mixed in with the rye seed. Just an observation on a one-time event......but Interesting none the less.

I certainly wish I had a agitator in my big seed box......but I am not loosing sleep over it. Having an area a bit thicker with one crop vs the other is diversity too.
 
Isn't the agitator for NWSG seed?I wouldn't think you would have to have for anything else
 
Isn't the agitator for NWSG seed?I wouldn't think you would have to have for anything else
I believe that is more like an auger than an agitator. I believe the agitator looks different
 
I believe that is more like an auger than an agitator. I believe the agitator looks different
Yeah, the pics make it look like agitators are a single arm above each seed cup vs the whole length auger like one I’ve seen in native seed boxes.
 
I'm surprised more of the 3P500 and 3P600 drills were not sold until the last few years. No doubt the no-till versions have sold well....but seems like a lesser number of the "minimum till" drills were sold until the Genesis and perhaps the Tar River came along. Did folks not expect them to work in light soils? I never even heard of these drills until doing some searching.....and then NO reviews of them in the inter webs. I find that really strange in light of what a great product they are. I'd be curious to see the optional weight bar mounted on one of these drills. I dont think I should ever need more weight.....I"m just curious to know what it looks like. And some guys with somewhat heavy soil may want to use the weight bar. Not sure how much weight they can hold?
 
I'm surprised more of the 3P500 and 3P600 drills were not sold until the last few years. No doubt the no-till versions have sold well....but seems like a lesser number of the "minimum till" drills were sold until the Genesis and perhaps the Tar River came along. Did folks not expect them to work in light soils? I never even heard of these drills until doing some searching.....and then NO reviews of them in the inter webs. I find that really strange in light of what a great product they are. I'd be curious to see the optional weight bar mounted on one of these drills. I dont think I should ever need more weight.....I"m just curious to know what it looks like. And some guys with somewhat heavy soil may want to use the weight bar. Not sure how much weight they can hold?

Great Plains appears to have been making these for at least 20 years. If they had been marketing them as no-till food plot drills at all the hunting trade shows and grant woods, higgins, the druries, sturgis, NDA, etc were promoting them (like genesis) you’d see a whole lot more hype among the hunting circles. But they have done the opposite to the point that a year or two ago they still told me they don’t recommend using them for no til food plot applications.
 
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Well I think the folks at GP/LP are geared to the production farmers where outcome of the crop is not a game ..it is everything ..and they also face all of north America as to soil type. condition, debris, moisture and a host of other variables that makes it logical to sell the non "NT" versions short ...so if you are lucky and in loose soil and it never turns to "concrete" (my own exaggeration) then you can surely use a non "NT" very effectively ..especially if you are using the "Buffalo year round Green system" and not having to follow into corn, milo and other heavy debris crops ..especially when a combine has not shredded the mass of stalks like a farmer does

The other thing is as I studied before my purchase ..an awful lot of folks of other brands were trying to figure out how/where to hang added weights which tells me ...some places non NT works and other places it does not ..

Bear
 
Great Plains appears to have been making these for at least 20 years. If they had been marketing them as no-till food plot drills at all the hunting trade shows and grant woods, higgins, the druries, sturgis, NDA, etc were promoting them (like genesis) you’d see a whole lot more hype among the hunting circles. But they have done the opposite to the point that a year or two ago they still told me they don’t recommend using them for no til food plot applications.
GP/LP still told me this same thing this spring before I ordered mine. They do not want unsatisfied customers from promising something that won't work on all soil profiles.
 
Well I think the folks at GP/LP are geared to the production farmers where outcome of the crop is not a game ..it is everything ..and they also face all of north America as to soil type. condition, debris, moisture and a host of other variables that makes it logical to sell the non "NT" versions short ...so if you are lucky and in loose soil and it never turns to "concrete" (my own exaggeration) then you can surely use a non "NT" very effectively ..especially if you are using the "Buffalo year round Green system" and not having to follow into corn, milo and other heavy debris crops ..especially when a combine has not shredded the mass of stalks like a farmer does

The other thing is as I studied before my purchase ..an awful lot of folks of other brands were trying to figure out how/where to hang added weights which tells me ...some places non NT works and other places it does not ..

Bear
The thing is.....I doubt you will find many real farmers that are interested in 5 and 6 foot drills. WAAAAY too small for anyone that is farming for a profit. I don't understand their logic.....if there is any. OTOH....ten years ago.....any NO-TILL drill had to have cutting coulters to be a legitimate no-till product. That idea has changed over the last several years.
 
The thing is.....I doubt you will find many real farmers that are interested in 5 and 6 foot drills. WAAAAY too small for anyone that is farming for a profit. I don't understand their logic.....if there is any. OTOH....ten years ago.....any NO-TILL drill had to have cutting coulters to be a legitimate no-till product. That idea has changed over the last several years.
Was reflecting on this a bit ^......and would like to summarize how I see the food plot game is changing for some of us that recently climbed into the no-till world.

I gotta say.....that when I first heard of a no-till drill I considered that stuff to be all too heavy and require big power tractors. Never considered it for a smaller scale operator such as myself. Then again.....I thought I had to till my land in order to grow things.....as that is the way I had seen things done at farms in the past. Also I had just finished logging my land and opening up more food plots....and destumping some land (I ground over 3000 stumps out of my food plots with a PTO stump grinder). I was not "ready" for a drill I suppose.

I just never knew about these other methods that have come about in recent years. Also, I often ignored the "throw and mow" threads and the no-till threads as I did not think they could apply to me. I had poor luck with broadcasting and not covering seeds. Still had not learned about keeping mulch "armor" on the soil and living roots, etc. At the old saying goes: "you just don't know what you don't know". A little history......

For me all the stars did not align for my operation until I had a major problems with pigweed in my corn and soybean crops. Decided that row crops were gonna ruin my enjoyment and battling weeds all summer is a major PITA. Along came the new Tar River Saya Drill.....at the height of my frustration with weeds, a drought, and a general all-summer crop failure all hitting at once.....and I made a decision to give no-till / regenerative-ag a go. Doing allot of speed reading and watching video (while my wife recovered from surgery) put me on a far better path than before. Then too a few friends from the interwebs helped steer me in the right direction. Still....there is an ongoing learning curve with all this stuff. It's a challenge - yet fun. I got along with the SAYA for a year and a half....but later recognized some of the better features with the GP unit and made a 'trade up" to the GP 3P500. The Saya fulfilled my need....and I am not so sure that their conventional 3 point drill would not work quite well for a smaller operation too. (See the Back 40 YouTube videos for a decent review on this product and his experiences - thanks Mark).

I had seen several others that had taken some conventional grain drills and converted them to a 3-Point drill and some of them were "getting by" with minimum til with reasonable expenses for such things. Heard of others that were using small pull-type conventional drills and some reported doing minimum or no till. Still....this has been slowly evolving and I never knew about the Great Plains or Land Pride Minium Tillage 3P500 or 3P600 which have been available for a good many years. Sure we heard about some of their flagship No-till models....but those seemed price prohibitive. No mention anywhere I could find on the 3P 500 or 600. Nada. Zip. Zero.

The company that put no-till drills on the map for guys like us was the RTP Genesis line.....and the various TV personalities that they market thru like Grant Woods, the Drury's and many more. They at least opened our eyes to other methods. Grant Woods explaining the Buffalo system is fundamental to this movement. NOW.....some legitimacy had happened to this market place.....AND few were needing slicing coulters.....like no-till REQUIRED in the PAST. Then the "lightweight" Genesis models began being preferred and the 30 and 35 HP tractor models became viable. Enter Tar River with a low cost asian built unit THAT WORKED......and suddenly many more players take hold in this no-till world. (A few other models have also been used over time....with some various levels of success and satisfaction - Kasco for one....and I know there are others too.)

Then too recently the "tillage and spillage tools" (Woods, Land Pride, etc) have been sold more heavily and they likely make sense for many.....and may bridge the affordability and usability gap for many.

Still it seems strange that the Kubota owned Great Plains / Land Pride 3 Point mini-till drills were not promoted better durning prior years. I think the 3P600 with a small seed box is one of the best alternatives out there for food plot guys.......especially if you have light or sandy ground. I think GP/LP was focussed on selling these products to vineyards and orchards and never really recognized the food plot users (??).....and instead pushed toward heavier units? Dunno their logic? .....or was I simply not aware or paying attention?

Despite them promoting other tools for this market.....for me.....these 3P drills make allot of sense for the small time operator with a typical 30 HP tractor with adequate lift capacity. I've been able to penetrate all my plots and virgin sod here at my land without ever a struggle. I'm told you can hang wieght on these little drills via a weight bracket they offer.....but I have never seen one and have not had the need for more weight on my unit. In a day's time I can drill ten acres of food plots with my five foot unit....if I have my seed ready to go. I drill at 3 to 3.5 mph depending on the terrain a bit. I've rolled over a few stumps and a rock or two....but will try to lift the drill around obstacles to provide longevity. Pulling these drills is a non event on light, fairly level land. .....Which is the kind of land that many of us have. It's mostly about the lift capacity for anyone looking for a drill like this. I know guys with some heavier soil types....and they seem to get along well with this drill too....tho I have no first hand experience.

For the money, I think these 3P drills are the best bang for my buck......and would choose it over the Genesis on light soils. Your results could vary....consult a local user or dealer for more specifics. My experience with the Tar River showed me I needed to have a small seed box. I know you can put one on the Genesis too....but there goes the price. Not sure what other I could gain from the Genesis or new G model....over these 3P models? As I write this....I believe you can buy a new 3P600 for about $15,000 with a small seed box (Tractor House).....and if you can find a used one you can save a little. Not cheap.....but they will last several decades if you are a reasonable operator.....and if you want "out" there are lots of folks ready to own a good value. Good machine prices don't seem to go down.

THERE....now their exists a "user testimonial" that I tried to find for this product line for TWO YEARS! ....prior to buying one. Maybe somebody will make a YouTube video.....lol.

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3p tips and tricks inquiries:
1 - These drills dont seem to have built in stand legs like the genesis drills, how are you guys storing them? sitting on coulters, closing wheels, and drive wheel or do you have some kind of rack/stand?
2 - Do you guys set these up with a floating top link to keep more consistent pressure on openers/closing wheels when you have little up/down changes in elevation in the direction of travel?
3 - I've heard stories of getting a flat in the drive wheel - anyone filled with foam and if so, do you have a tutorial on how to do that?
 
3p tips and tricks inquiries:
1 - These drills dont seem to have built in stand legs like the genesis drills, how are you guys storing them? sitting on coulters, closing wheels, and drive wheel or do you have some kind of rack/stand?
2 - Do you guys set these up with a floating top link to keep more consistent pressure on openers/closing wheels when you have little up/down changes in elevation in the direction of travel?
3 - I've heard stories of getting a flat in the drive wheel - anyone filled with foam and if so, do you have a tutorial on how to do that?
I just let it sit on coulters

Yes I run a floating top link. Also a hydraulic top link is a must.

I had a flat! I think foam would work, but they recommend a specific tire pressure (60 I think). So would want to make sure similar.
 
So excited for you wind. It is so fun.
 
I just let it sit on coulters

Yes I run a floating top link. Also a hydraulic top link is a must.

I had a flat! I think foam would work, but they recommend a specific tire pressure (60 I think). So would want to make sure similar.

How do you float the top link? I know Yoder used to post about how he used a chain on the top link and quick hitches have some pivot in the top pin but i'm curious what the smoothest option is.

My flail mower has a long slot that the top pin floats in which seems like a pretty slick solution and works well with that implement.
 
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