Cuddelink general Q&A recommendations

it makes no difference on the cuddelink side the image is always low rez.. I always run mine at 5mp, 20 mp doesnt really do any good even when pulling the card since itss interpolated.

I run mine at 5mp as well. Just a thought I had. Thanks for the response.
 
I run mine at 5mp as well. Just a thought I had. Thanks for the response.
Pep,

If you set the IR Mode to "Close" instead of the default of "Far" the JPEG compression of the thumbnails will be reduced by about 25%. This will give you somewhat more visible detail and crispness when you zoom in on the thumbnail even though the physical size of the thumbs are identical either way. The downside of the "Close" setting is the higher potential for motion blur on moving critters and the appearance (not the reality) of less flash range.
 
Pics are still coming through but what happened to my link levels?
 

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John, I’m wondering if cuddeback is thinking of any design changes for any new cameras in the system specifically one with a quieter filter? Gen2 system has really made this system pretty nice. One thing that holds me back from deploying this deep into deers bedrooms is the filter sound. It does seem to be louder than the average. I can’t say there is avoidance now with it, but I can’t say it’s not an issue either. So I error on the side of caution. A less audible filter could be a nice upgrade from a hardware perspective for an already good system.
 
im sure its being looked at , this should only happen during transition time when the filter switches over , possibly 1-2 times per day at most. The issue is to remove the filter would require adding another separate lens which would add expense. If there is a way to quite it down they will try.
 
Pics are still coming through but what happened to my link levels?
dont fret about glitches in the reports unless it is continuous , escpecially if images and reports are flowing thru regularly. The online report especially is being tweaked.
 
Can you charge rechargeable batteries while in the camera? If so, can you run the home camera off AC using the charger and rechargeable batteries that come with the 3501 solar panel?
 
Can you charge rechargeable batteries while in the camera? If so, can you run the home camera off AC using the charger and rechargeable batteries that come with the 3501 solar panel?
its best to charge the batteries with 110 out of the camera or by at least pulling the battery pack off the camera, so what you are asking wouldn't work or at least wouldn't be ideal and may damage the camera .
 
its best to charge the batteries with 110 out of the camera or by at least pulling the battery pack off the camera, so what you are asking wouldn't work or at least wouldn't be ideal and may damage the camera .
What is the difference? Does the charger apply current at a higher amps than the solar panel?
 
Can you charge rechargeable batteries while in the camera? If so, can you run the home camera off AC using the charger and rechargeable batteries that come with the 3501 solar panel?

Using 3501's on J's and I've ran the camera while charging with the 110v wart they come with. Didn't know it was a bad idea.
 
What is the difference? Does the charger apply current at a higher amps than the solar panel?
Im repeating what the engineers told me at Cudde. it doesnt mesh well with the camera electronics when the battery pack is hooked up to the camera. The batteries dont get a good charge that way either.
 
Im repeating what the engineers told me at Cudde. it doesnt mesh well with the camera electronics when the battery pack is hooked up to the camera. The batteries dont get a good charge that way either.
I don’t mean to be persistent but I see where you say there is a new 110 power source so how does the new 110 power source differ from the battery charger? It has to reduce the voltage from 110AC to 9 VDC.
 
I don’t mean to be persistent but I see where you say there is a new 110 power source so how does the new 110 power source differ from the battery charger? It has to reduce the voltage from 110AC to 9 VDC.
the 110 power source is designed different and also intended to be plugged into a camera without batteries , not a camera with rechargeables in it. im not an electrical engineer , im going off what ive learned from them and how the products were designed. If you are looking for a different answer or the all clear to do what you asked, sorry.... you arent going to get it from me. We get returns every day form people who "try " different options from other manufacturers or products they buy elsewhere. I try to prevent people from that kind of frustration.
 
Pep,

If you set the IR Mode to "Close" instead of the default of "Far" the JPEG compression of the thumbnails will be reduced by about 25%. This will give you somewhat more visible detail and crispness when you zoom in on the thumbnail even though the physical size of the thumbs are identical either way. The downside of the "Close" setting is the higher potential for motion blur on moving critters and the appearance (not the reality) of less flash range.
I changed my cameras to Close and I can definitely tell a difference in quality. Thank you.
 
I changed my cameras to Close and I can definitely tell a difference in quality. Thank you.
I agree, I recently changed several G-series cams after experimenting with Close and Far. Setting them to close was a definite improvement in resolution!
 
So, this will be my first post and I am not sure if it is in the correct place. This is my 3rd year of running cameras, 1st year running with solar panels. I currently have 2 K cell cameras, and 6 IR J's The solar panels are PW-3600. In the last two years I traveled 3 hours each way to change batteries once a month, The solar has cut that in half. I am considering going to 12-volt batteries and the PW-3617 power cord hooked up to the solar panels. I LOVE the ability to adjust settings and receive pictures once a day. I did mess up when I put the last two J cameras out I updated the firmware before putting them out. two different firmware versions. now I need to go out and fix it. Live and learn. So long-winded and all. My main question 12 volt battery and pw-3617 power cord. ????
 
So, this will be my first post and I am not sure if it is in the correct place. This is my 3rd year of running cameras, 1st year running with solar panels. I currently have 2 K cell cameras, and 6 IR J's The solar panels are PW-3600. In the last two years I traveled 3 hours each way to change batteries once a month, The solar has cut that in half. I am considering going to 12-volt batteries and the PW-3617 power cord hooked up to the solar panels. I LOVE the ability to adjust settings and receive pictures once a day. I did mess up when I put the last two J cameras out I updated the firmware before putting them out. two different firmware versions. now I need to go out and fix it. Live and learn. So long-winded and all. My main question 12 volt battery and pw-3617 power cord. ????
IF you have aa packs on you Js remove them and do this-
my recommendation for long battery life is a 4 d battery pack on the J mated with a #3358 6 d booster, or a J with 4 d alklines in the camera and the new PW3600 solar plugged into the camera - rayovac high energy batteries- DO NOT USE ENERGIZER!!
 
IF you have aa packs on you Js remove them and do this-
my recommendation for long battery life is a 4 d battery pack on the J mated with a #3358 6 d booster or a J with 4 d alkalines in the camera and the new PW3600 solar plugged into the camera - Rayovac high energy batteries- DO NOT USE ENERGIZER!!
I do have the aa packs on the J's I also have my cameras installed on public land are in custom made aluminum boxes that I built that take trailer hitch locks. So I cant add the D pack on the back of the cameras. If I add the dual power bank does the solar panel charge the batteries in the booster? and the camera? If so do you mix rechargeable and alkaline? At the moment I have Panasonic Eneloop rechargeable batteries in the J cameras. The K cameras have Tenergy rechargeable batteries. Last year I ran standard alkaline batteries and we needed to travel once a month to replace... The D batteries on the new K cameras seem solid, but have solar attached. I just can't take a day a month to travel. honestly, this is pretty amazing that I received a response to my question within a couple of hours. helps reaffirm why I love Cuddeback. I have pushed the cameras to several people that are interested in cameras. Appreciate your time.
 
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I do have the aa packs on the J's I also have my cameras installed on public land are in custom made aluminum boxes that I built that take trailer hitch locks. So I cant add the D pack on the back of the cameras. If I add the booster pack does the solar panel charge the batteries in the booster? and the camera? If so do you mix rechargeable and alkaline? At the moment I have Panasonic Eneloop rechargeable batteries in the J cameras. The K cameras have Tenergy rechargeable batteries. Last year I ran standard alkaline batteries and we needed to travel once a month to replace... The D batteries on the new K cameras seem solid, but have solar attached. I just can't take a day a month to travel. honestly, this is pretty amazing that I received a response to my question within a couple of hours. helps reaffirm why I love Cuddeback. I have pushed the cameras to several people that are interested in cameras. Appreciate your time.
if you need ot leave the aa pack on the j cameras you have 2 options ,
1. run solar with rechargeables in the camera , make sure they are fully charged when you put them in the camera. test each battery to insure it is full voltage and put the panel in full sun. This should last way past a month. if not something is up with the batteries.
2. put rayovac alkaline aa in the camera and then plug a 3358 booster into the camera with 6 rayovac alkaline d's. If you do this, do not put lithium batteries in the camera. I would expect 90-120 days with this set up.
 
if you need ot leave the aa pack on the j cameras you have 2 options ,
1. run solar with rechargeables in the camera , make sure they are fully charged when you put them in the camera. test each battery to insure it is full voltage and put the panel in full sun. This should last way past a month. if not something is up with the batteries.
2. put rayovac alkaline aa in the camera and then plug a 3358 booster into the camera with 6 rayovac alkaline d's. If you do this, do not put lithium batteries in the camera. I would expect 90-120 days with this set up.
So I think the main issue that we are having is the cameras are located in wooded areas. A lot of the people I see are on or in fields/plots. I am also in the pacific northwest and even better my hunting area is closer to the coast so the amount of viable sunlight is minimal. I am looking to put these cameras out for 6 months plus at a time... Ultimate goal. You do not recommend your 12-volt adapter plug? I can put a car battery out with a 10-watt solar panel and that plug versus the cuddelink 2-watt solar panel. I would have a much longer wire so that I could place my solar in a better location also. I would think that a car battery would have a much larger reserve. Can I use a solar panel along with the alkaline batteries in the camera and the 3358 booster? I am not trying to argue. Just trying to find the most viable option. Also is there a post somewhere for setting up the cameras and what the settings do? I have been reading a lot of posts and feel I am woefully ignorant. I am thinking I am not using these tools to maximum efficiency.
 
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