Crabapple timeline

Sandbur (or anyone with insight),
I really appreciate this thread and it has served me well in constructing my orchard. I noticed a reference to a "swamp" crab and was interested in whether there are any crabs/apples/pears that you are aware of that could withstand or thrive in wetter soils. I have an area of my farm that floods a couple of times per year for few hours. The soil dries out rather quickly and persimmons have been able to tolerate the flooding thus far. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I am in west central Illinois, zone 6 formerly 5b.
 
Sandbur (or anyone with insight),
I really appreciate this thread and it has served me well in constructing my orchard. I noticed a reference to a "swamp" crab and was interested in whether there are any crabs/apples/pears that you are aware of that could withstand or thrive in wetter soils. I have an area of my farm that floods a couple of times per year for few hours. The soil dries out rather quickly and persimmons have been able to tolerate the flooding thus far. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I am in west central Illinois, zone 6 formerly 5b.
Got any pictures of the trees that didn't make it? Collar rot is a likely problem in wet areas. M7 or M111 rootstock would be best for that. What kind of soil do you have, how deep can you dig down until you hit rock or something like solid clay. Any way to improve drainage? MY backyard is alot better since I got the house. I put drainage channels in. Sometimes I get 3-5 days of saturated and flooded conditions. A few times I have had to replant grass seed. Trees that were here before me survived. The trunks are 14-18 inches around. Guessing P18 maybe. Got heavier clay soil. Common rootstock is more universally known. Stuff like dolgo or antonovka is not written about too much except with folks on here.

IF you dig around there was a thread maybe 2 years ago on wet rootstock. Callery crabapple seedlings were discussed. Could be an option too.

Oddly at home B118 is growing faster than M111 wth my 1st year or trying trees out. The 2nd year I purchased a large rototiller and amended more and bought almost all M111's to match my soil type. B118 is a very vigrously growing tree, for some too fast for the roots. Suspecting that might be my low pH. 5.3 or so. Working on that.

I have one or two spots that is too close for comfort far as flooding goes. I put 2 or 3 tractor buckets of soil and raised it up close to a foot taller.

Another issue is your soil prep. Ammending with alot of loose soil in a area of dense soil makes basically a bucket to hold water in. The mound basically puts it above the dense soil, so the looser stuff can drain. It is common landscape practice ot basically put potted plant on the ground and adding soil around it.

When I ammended I was careful to not add to much, and to compact the soil as I worked on it. You can use a shovel handle to push holes in the soil, add some over it and push around. Using your feet works. Breaking up the soil well before you bury the roots. Watering well then patting down the soil. Use your finger to push soil into the gaps between the roots.
 
Sandbur (or anyone with insight),
I really appreciate this thread and it has served me well in constructing my orchard. I noticed a reference to a "swamp" crab and was interested in whether there are any crabs/apples/pears that you are aware of that could withstand or thrive in wetter soils. I have an area of my farm that floods a couple of times per year for few hours. The soil dries out rather quickly and persimmons have been able to tolerate the flooding thus far. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I am in west central Illinois, zone 6 formerly 5b.
What I call swamp crab is wild and it is on a ditch bank and survives flooding. The local town has a mile of river bottom with many wild crabs that survive 3-7 days of flooding every spring and after heavy rainfalls. Those that I have checked have fruit of 1/2 inch or less.

I have not been able to get them to grow from seed but have dug up root suckers and pieces of root. They make great rootstock in wet locations where willows grow.

I would look for blooming crabs along ditch or creek banks in the spring.
 
Sandbur (or anyone with insight),
I really appreciate this thread and it has served me well in constructing my orchard. I noticed a reference to a "swamp" crab and was interested in whether there are any crabs/apples/pears that you are aware of that could withstand or thrive in wetter soils. I have an area of my farm that floods a couple of times per year for few hours. The soil dries out rather quickly and persimmons have been able to tolerate the flooding thus far. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I am in west central Illinois, zone 6 formerly 5b.
Burnt Ridge sells Pacific Crabapple (I.e. Swamp Crabapple) seedlings that are said to do well in wetter soils. While the fruit from the tree itself is fairly small, the seedlings are used to graft trees that can grow in wet conditions.

 
What I call swamp crab is wild and it is on a ditch bank and survives flooding. The local town has a mile of river bottom with many wild crabs that survive 3-7 days of flooding every spring and after heavy rainfalls. Those that I have checked have fruit of 1/2 inch or less.

I have not been able to get them to grow from seed but have dug up root suckers and pieces of root. They make great rootstock in wet locations where willows grow.

I would look for blooming crabs along ditch or creek banks in the spring.
I would add that most of the wild crabs in my area and even a few apples grow at the edges of wetlands. Nearly all of the upland ground is in ag production or recently has been in it.
 
Burnt Ridge sells Pacific Crabapple (I.e. Swamp Crabapple) seedlings that are said to do well in wetter soils. While the fruit from the tree itself is fairly small, the seedlings are used to graft trees that can grow in wet conditions.

Perhaps I should have not used the name Swamp Crab for what I see. What grows here is hardy in zone 4A and also grew in our area when we were 3b.
 
Perhaps I should have not used the name Swamp Crab for what I see. What grows here is hardy in zone 4A and also grew in our area when we were 3b.
Might be asking for sone of that swamp crab when the scion exchange comes around.
 
Big Dog has started to drop, as has Frostbite. Kerr Crab and Violi’s are still holding their fruit.

I had Merton Pippin fruit for the first time. It is starting to drop fruit.
 
Big Dog has started to drop, as has Frostbite. Kerr Crab and Violi’s are still holding their fruit.

I had Merton Pippin fruit for the first time. It is starting to drop fruit.
Kerr holds pretty good.? Thought it was an early october and thats it tree. Watered the kerr tree you gave me scion for as well as my other trees just now. How does a dry fall effect mature trees far as drop times. I forgotif you had redfree or not.
 
Kerr holds pretty good.? Thought it was an early october and thats it tree. Watered the kerr tree you gave me scion for as well as my other trees just now. How does a dry fall effect mature trees far as drop times. I forgotif you had redfree or not.
I do not have redfree.

I have seen some changes in drop time this fall, but was thinking that more heat units may have pushed it earlier by a week to ten days. Some apples have tasted differently by his fall.

A few apples seem to be on schedule. I need to check but it seems like October 25 is typical for Big Dog. One very dry year, it started dropping much earlier.

Just per memory, Red Baron bloomed late and ripened/dropped later this year.

Somewhere, I have a photo of Kerr holding into winter.
 
Whats tohr guess for kerr? Start dropping , half dropped, and maybe 25% on tree.

Never considered kerr to be a late season tree. Got one at hone. One at the farm. But none at camp. Might graft one for up there this year.
 
Whats tohr guess for kerr? Start dropping , half dropped, and maybe 25% on tree.

Never considered kerr to be a late season tree. Got one at hone. One at the farm. But none at camp. Might graft one for up there this year.
I have had some variation in a year or two. Right now, less than 5% have dropped.
 
Whats tohr guess for kerr? Start dropping , half dropped, and maybe 25% on tree.

Never considered kerr to be a late season tree. Got one at hone. One at the farm. But none at camp. Might graft one for up there this year.
I would recommend a full sized rootstock. Kerr tends toward semi dwarf for me. I have also stripped the flowers off of the central leader to get a taller tree. The heavy fruit load can permanently bend the leader.
 
Whats tohr guess for kerr? Start dropping , half dropped, and maybe 25% on tree.

Never considered kerr to be a late season tree. Got one at hone. One at the farm. But none at camp. Might graft one for up there this year.
Just took a couple of pictures. I grabbed a couple to eat and a couple others dropped.424E300B-271D-4280-9630-A4C4FBE56ABE.jpegI have the tree tied to a 10 foot conduit to try and keep it upright. Note the central leader with no fruit, where I removed the blossoms.
 
Whats tohr guess for kerr? Start dropping , half dropped, and maybe 25% on tree.

Never considered kerr to be a late season tree. Got one at hone. One at the farm. But none at camp. Might graft one for up there this year.
Kerr
Whats tohr guess for kerr? Start dropping , half dropped, and maybe 25% on tree.

Never considered kerr to be a late season tree. Got one at hone. One at the farm. But none at camp. Might graft one for up there this year.
kerr8284C86B-6FCB-4535-A173-43A9AB8DAFFF.jpeg
 
View attachment 69263
First drop and first taste of this russet.

Dense flesh with a pear like flavor. I like the two russets I have tried.
Just saw this. We have a Minn. 1734 at camp too. I haven't tasted any fruit from it though. Seems to grow well for us. Thanks for the pic of the apple.
 
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