Compact tractor disk and brush hog thoughts.

[Wind Gypsy]

Just put my name on a new kubota L3560 HST with loader, quick hitch, and loaded ag tires. I have spent a lot of time reading about drills and not so much researching basics like a disc harrow and rotary mower.

Anyway, I’m set to have them add a land pride DH1060 disc and rcr1260 rotary cutter. These options seem like their lighter duty options and I’m wondering if I shouldn’t spring for beefier implements, land pride or otherwise. This is only a 37 hp tractor but with loaded tires and FEL I think it will weigh over 5000 lb.

I did look at the anything attachments full box frames discs and liked how they adjust the gang angle. It seems like it might be harder work to adjust the land pride ones how they have them set up.

I hope to use the disc very little. I don’t foresee a ton of mowing either but maybe occasionally to cut weeds above clover plots.

Getting implements included in financing is not a factor in these decisions for me. It would be nice to have it all delivered with the tractor but that’s not a big deal either.

Thoughts?

 

[Foggy47]

Congrats on the new ride. Good choice of a tractor model.....IMO.

I advocate for low priced implements.....but those that are well made. A good King Kutter BOX FRAME disk will perform as well as the high priced spread.....IMO. I now have a Woodmax Flail mower and would buy it over any rotary cutter. Having said that I used a low cost rotary cutter for many years to "break" my land. Brand was King Kutter and my neighbor is still running it to clip hip pasture.

The good thing about implements is that they seldom lose much value and are easy to sell via Facebook marketplace and Craigs List if you want to upgrade.

My experience with a tandem disk is.....one you get it set up properly you likely will just leave it as is.....and not find a need to adjust again. I would consider selling my disk as I am committed to no-till.....but you never know when a guy decides to increase a food plot size or break some new ground. Kinda the same way with my stump grinder....seldom use it now that the stumps are gone.

 

[yoderjac]

Congrats on the tractor. I have a smaller Kubota B series and it has been running for years unlike my larger Kioti DK45 which lives in the shop. Just broke a loader pin on it today.

One thing I've learned is that implements have to be sized for the tractor. My DK45 is sort of a tweener. It has both cat 1 and cat 2 arms. Cat 2 stuff is much heavier duty, but smaller tractors just can't handle them. I've got a small 4' Kasco no-till drill. With the addition of a hydraulic top-link, my DK45 handles it well. One year my DK45 was in the shop and I borrowed an L-series Kubota from a friend. Even with front weight, the front wheels of the tractor hardly made contact with the ground and I could barely lift the cultipacker on the rear of the Kasco off the ground. One year I borrowed a very heavy duty box blade from a neighbor. It was old and very heavy. The DK45 could handle it pretty well, but I hit something with it and the box blade jumped up, bent the toplink, and broke the rear window in the cab. I have a few cat 1 implements that I use with the DK45 on occasion. I was pulling a cat 1 landscape rake. It hung on a stump I didn't see and instead of hanging up the tractor, it just twisted the crap out of one side of the rake and kept on going. I had a similar thing happen with a 4' wood rotary cutter. The tail wheel caught on a hidden stump and it bent the tail wheel assembly. I never even knew what happened when I hit it. I happened to get out to take a leak and saw the damage and had to go back and figure out where it happened. I also have a big woods 990 mower. IT is as heavy duty as a bushhog but has 3 spindles and belt like a finish mower. It is a bit oversized for my DK45 but it handles it. It doesn't take much debris to restrict enough airflow on the radiator before the DK45 overheats. It is pushing the limit for that PTO.

I don't do much disking of food plots, but we needed a heavy duty aggressive disk for firebreaks as we do a lot of prescribed burns. I bought one from Everything Attachments. I like it. It has a very simple crank system that lets me easily adjust the gang angle quickly. When I do use it on a food plot, I can make it quite straight and then heavily angled for firebreaks. It has sealed bearings so I don't have one more implement to grease. So far, I'm very happy with it. The model I got would be too big for your tractor, but they make various sizes. I did a lot of research before buying it and there is a thread on here describing the process.

The only other advice I'd give is to take your time. When I first started, I had never heard of T&M or no-till. I've got a 2-bottim plow that just sits and rusts. That money could have been better spent on other implements.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Wind Gypsy]

An L3560 has the same 3pt lift rating and is only a couple hundred lbs lighter than a DK45.

They are a beefier tractor than say a L3901

 

[yoderjac]

An L3560 has the same 3pt lift rating and is only a couple hundred lbs lighter than a DK45.

They are a beefier tractor than say a L3901

Lifting the drill was not an issue with either tractor. It was how high I could lift it. The problem with that drill is that if the toplink i short enough to lift the cultipacker sufficiently, when you set it down to drill, the cultipacker has no pressure. My solution was the hydraulic toplink. The L series I borrowed had plenty of lift power, but because it was not a full size frame, that was not as high off the ground as the DK45. The tractor did not have a FEL or loaded tires like yours so I had to add counter weight to the front. Again, that is a function of frame size and front end weight not lift capacity.

My point was not the specifics of that particular drill. I was just giving several examples of the importance of matching the equipment to the tractor. Most cat 1 implements are made for the compact tractors in that 25-40hp class. Most of the cat 2 stuff is made for full size frame tractors of 60 hp or more. As I say that DK45 is a tweener. By the way, I'd NEVER buy another Kioti. I was seduced by the lower purchase price for a comparable Kubota. The lifecycle cost of a Kubota would have been much less. My next tractor will be in the 70 hp class and will be a Kubota. Last spring I bought a JD 35G mini-excavator to work on logging roads, put in a driveway and I'll soon be building a house. Once all that is done, I plan to sell it and buy a new tractor...Likely Kubota!

 

[Someday isle]

Proud owner of a Kubota B2601 that I bought last year. I went with all landpride attachments - the 1048 Disc and the 1248 rotary cutter, also bought a 54 inch box blade and a spreader. Those land pride attachments all performed great for me and my purposes. I’m thrilled with the quality of both the tractor and the implements.

 

[Someday isle]

And the landpride disc angle is super easy and simple to use. I’m a tractor newbie and I had absolutely zero issues last year. I’d certainly recommend the landpride quick hitch too. Changing attachments is a breeze with that on the back of the tractor. I also have the loaded tires and make sure to have an implement on the back for ballast. Be safe, go slow, and enjoy some tractor therapy.

 

[Tree Spud]

I have Land Pride disk, brush mower, and grapple for my Kubota MX5800. All very well constructed, easy to use & set-up, with no issues. The dual row disk is very easy to adjust.

I also have the rear tires filled with beet juice for added ballast, make sure you consider front ballast such as an FEL is you weight calculations.

Once you have properly sized for lift, torque, and weight for your size tractor, spend the most you can afford on quality built implements as they will take a beating in difficult use conditions. Lesser cost implements show price savings on proper structure area such as welds & gusseted supports along with structural frame/housing and drive gearing.

Buy once, cry once

 

[Foggy47]

I own quite a few implements.....and many of them will not work with a quick hitch for various reasons. I own a Kubota L3560 with a cab and two sets of remotes for the back of the tractor.....and hydraulic function for the front of the tractor (for a grapple). I do own PATS EZ change on the lower links for most of the implements and I have a hydraulic top link (which I have come to like allot). These are considerations for quick hitch attachments.

1. Many of the older implements are not compatible with the quick hitch as they do not meet the current guildelines for the dimensions of the pin locations.
2. All post hole diggers are attached without any top link employed.....and therefore a QH must come off.
3. My Ford industrial Landscape Rake is not QH compatible.
4. My Dearborn Field cultivator is not QH Compatible.
5. My Woods Stump Grinder could be attached with a QH....but that allows too much movement to the implement and promotes "jumping" in operation. No Go. I remove the PATS EZ when using thie stump grinder to minimize jumping.
7. My Box Blade did not fit a QH.
8. The Woodmaxx Flail Mower does not lend itself to a QH.
9. My KK Disk could be used with a QH.
10. " Ballast Box " " "
11. " Rotary Cutter. " " "\
11.5 " Single Shank Ripper " "
12. King Kutter Tiller is not compatible with a QH.
12.5 King Kutter Fertilizer Spreader is not compatible with a QH.
13. Tar River Saya drill is not compatible with a QH.
......and so it goes.

The point in saying the above is that many older and a few new implements, by short-line manufactures, will often not be compatible with the quick hitch. If you purchase the tractor companies implements (which most often are QH compatible) but you are going to pay more for them. Nothing wrong with that....but you often can save considerable money and get a better selection of implements by buying different color implements.....IMO. It often takes new tractor owners a while to learn how to hook up implements. Be patient.

Lots of different thoughts on implements and attaching them. I go back a long way with tractors and implements (back to the 50's). The PATS EZ change and a hydraulic top link are superior......for my purposes.

EDIT: I have telescoping drag links on my Kubota "Grand L" series.....but I seldom use the telescoping feature. Instead I adjust the telescoping stabilizers to the right width and use the PAT'S to attach most any of the lower lift pins......its then easy to adjust the hydraulic top link to connect that top pin....and after attached its then easy to level the implement via hydraulics. I do wish that Kubota had a gear driven lower link to make it easier to level side to side......but it's no big deal. A tractor without implements is of little value. I like 5 and 6 foot implements as you can generally find lots of good used ones at a decent price. Some of mine are "disposable"....others are better cared for. I keep those with a gearbox inside the machine shed....but some need to stay outside in the weather.

 

[Foggy47]

One thing a Quick Hitch will do Is move your rear pins about 2" further from the tracotor. (same goes for the PATS EZ change). Generally this is not a huge deal as far as weight is concerned but could be a factor on some of the lighter tractors.

It can create problems with the Top Link length adjustments and the PTO shaft lengths as well. One thing I found useful is getting one of those Speedco PTO shaft extensions.....which attach with the good old fashioned push pin. it lengthens your the shaft of PTO implement about 2" . BUT the biggest feature is that it replaces the need to use that pull-collar PTO connector found on a few implements. I much prefer the cross pin attachment to the collar-pull style. Some of those are a pistol to get on and off. Also with a short PTO shaft like on the Cone Spreader.....getting a few inches extra length is a money saver. Keeps the old PTO shaft usable.

 

[buckdeer1]

The only thing that I couldn't easily connect to my QH was a post hole auger and an old disk.Looks like you still have the stock pins on them might look at putting the quick hitch pins on.Some you just point to the inside instead of out.Another thing is that you may have a small enough tractor your implements are for the smaller category hitch, The QH pins fit them much better than the regular pins

 

[yoderjac]

I do have a quick hitch but never use it anymore. Issues with a few items and I found a much better solution. My barn floor is concrete, so I just used cheap Harbor Freight dollies and 2x4s to build dollies for each implement. I can roll even the large ones around enough for easy arm hookup. I have an hydraulic toplink so that is a breeze. I still have a few large implement that have no moving parts like a box blade. The extension arms on my tractor make that a fairly easy hookup.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

With a little more research i've upgraded my order to heavier duty implements. From RC1260 to RC2060 on the rotary mower and from 1060 to 1560 on the disc harrow.

The 1060 is only rated to 40 HP. This tractor is 37 HP and will be heavy compared to other sub 40hp compact tractors at over 5000 lbs and hopefully get plenty of traction with 4wd and ag tires. I don't want to be on the upper limits of capability. The 1560 is also about 80 lbs heavier.

Stepping up to the 2060 cutter gets 2" diameter cutting rating vs 1", thicker and welded deck construction, 9-11/16" deck height vs 7-1/4" which should allow more room for trash, 12" max cutting depth vs 10" and an easier to adjust tailwheel height design.

Yes i may be able to find cheaper used or new options but i believe this all gets covered under the KTAC insurance if included in financing, i know these will work well with a quick hitch, and they will get delivered with the tractor so no shipping or finding time to pick up.

 

[bigboreblr]

I'd go for a finish mower more than a brush hog. Some finish mowers are open underneath and don't clog up. Brush hog on established fields leaves clumps and kills part of your plots.

Borrow or rent a brush hog if you need to reclaim a abandoned field. If you got rocks sticking out more than 2 or 3 inches, then use the brush hog instead.

You will need something after the discs, like a chain drag. You can also back drag the bucket until you get something to do that. Dragging bolted up tires or a few logs spaced out with chain will do too. Im a fan of what been used for many years to do a job, spring harrows. Until you get a cultipacker, you got your tractor tires....

 

[Wind Gypsy]

I'd go for a finish mower more than a brush hog. Some finish mowers are open underneath and don't clog up. Brush hog on established fields leaves clumps and kills part of your plots.

Borrow or rent a brush hog if you need to reclaim a abandoned field. If you got rocks sticking out more than 2 or 3 inches, then use the brush hog instead.

You will need something after the discs, like a chain drag. You can also back drag the bucket until you get something to do that. Dragging bolted up tires or a few logs spaced out with chain will do too. Im a fan of what been used for many years to do a job, spring harrows. Until you get a cultipacker, you got your tractor tires....

I've got an ATV cultipacker just waiting for pickup, might grab a chain harrow as well.

 

[Foggy47]

Not sure of the price your paying for that rotary cutter. I own a rotary cutter too.....but almost never use it anymore. I likely should sell it....but it does not owe me anything.....and it seems to go up in value as machinery costs keep rising. I now almost exclusively use my Woodmaxx flail mower for those chores. It does such a superior job in almost every situation. I do have a side shift model and it allows me to get near buildings and trees along the trails. With a fllail mower you really dont need a brush hog or a finish mower....you have it all covered....IMO.

Not sure some of these products are available in these times....so there is always that.

 

[bigboreblr]

I've had a flail mower. Worked good, but it needed alot of love. Old mott one. Over in NY, there is no love for finish mowers. See them all the time for $300 in better shape than a $800 used brush hog of the same size.

I've done great for many years with an old lawn mower. I buy blades 1 inch smaller, so there more room between the blade and the wall of the mower deck.

 

[Nightvision]

My dad was looking at a new landpride cutter when someone recommended he look at one made by Titan. I think they are out of Tennessee. He has not been disappointed.

 

[yoderjac]

My dad was looking at a new landpride cutter when someone recommended he look at one made by Titan. I think they are out of Tennessee. He has not been disappointed.

I got some TItan forks for my tractor loader. I've just started using them, but they seem pretty good so far.

 

[bigboreblr]

I owned a 2011 L3200, but sold it with my last house. It has a 1/2 mile driveway with a steep hill on the northside of a NY catskills mountain. Honestly, Id be doubtful it can no till that well.

Modern tractors have the power, but do not have the weight behind it. You should be ok wih your L though in that regard.

Older tractors had chains connecting to the upper arm. Most modern tractor have fixed rigid connections to the lifting ram. Right off the bat with my L3200, I put some old L175 chains on my tractor. Going up a hill or dtich, the rear implement can slam that cylinder off. I guy a trap shoot with is a higway dept mechanic. He makes fixed numerous tractor with broken open rear lift arm castings because of the rigild setup. Having a rear wheel helps, most mowers have them. Swithcing to an air filled tire helps too.

Far as discs go, they till. But, you need that soiled level up before a seedbed can be well used. Cultipackers and spring harrows are great. In a pinch, drag a log or bolt a few tires together was a drag.