New Barn Build - 25x36 Pole Barn
- Thread starter Natty Bumppo
- Start date
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks for the kind words Mortenson.
Ha! Not yet Bowsnbucks. Still trying to get my garage doors in place and the last of the batten strips up. I am going to dig a trench in the next few weeks so I can run my power out to the building before the ground freezes. I'd be happy if I could work out there this winter with some light and power getting the interior finished.
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thought I'd post up a mid-winter update on my barn. I got my over head doors hung last month. I had them high-lifted so I'll have plenty of room inside for a car lift down the road. I was going to paint them brown or barn red like the roof...but the white is kind of growing on me the more I look at them. I also built my 2 sliding barn doors and mounted them using box rail track and hardware. Got those up today.
Inside I am using 2" polyiso insulation as infill between all of the 6x6's up against the walls. I then frame up the space between my 6x6 vertical posts with 2x3's spaced 2' OC. This isn't really necessary other than to give me studs to hang stuff on in the future. Once my wires are run I then sheath the interior walls with horizontal 1x12 ship-lap pine from the floor up to 8', and a piece of sheetrock installed horizontally up to my 12' ceiling. I like the two-tone look. The wood down low will be durable and rustic looking. The sheetrock up high will help with light and make a nice place to add signs and lights and whatever else I come across.
Going to continue with the wiring and wall sheathing the rest of the winter. This spring I'll do the stairs up to the second floor entry door and a shed roof off the back for equipment storage. It has not escaped my notice that if I do a little deck off that 2nd floor door I'll have a great elevated practice platform.
Can somebody help with my box rail. Each box the trolleys came in included 2 pieces of angled metal that I think are the end caps for the rail. I just have no idea how exactly they get installed. There was no additional hardware included. I am missing something? Thanks in advance.
Inside I am using 2" polyiso insulation as infill between all of the 6x6's up against the walls. I then frame up the space between my 6x6 vertical posts with 2x3's spaced 2' OC. This isn't really necessary other than to give me studs to hang stuff on in the future. Once my wires are run I then sheath the interior walls with horizontal 1x12 ship-lap pine from the floor up to 8', and a piece of sheetrock installed horizontally up to my 12' ceiling. I like the two-tone look. The wood down low will be durable and rustic looking. The sheetrock up high will help with light and make a nice place to add signs and lights and whatever else I come across.
Going to continue with the wiring and wall sheathing the rest of the winter. This spring I'll do the stairs up to the second floor entry door and a shed roof off the back for equipment storage. It has not escaped my notice that if I do a little deck off that 2nd floor door I'll have a great elevated practice platform.
Can somebody help with my box rail. Each box the trolleys came in included 2 pieces of angled metal that I think are the end caps for the rail. I just have no idea how exactly they get installed. There was no additional hardware included. I am missing something? Thanks in advance.
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Catscratch
5 year old buck +
Looks great. How did you seal the bottom of your sliding doors? I have similar doors and the bottom fit kind of sucks.
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Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Big Snow Man
5 year old buck +
Very impressive
Bill
Administrator
Does your door have a bottom guide? In the center if it’s two doors. Mine is sloppy but the doors have cam action jamb latches on the inside that pull the door tight against the side door jams. They also serve as extra door locks.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Great looking barn, Natty.
Catscratch
5 year old buck +
My sliding door is two doors like yours. The only bottom guide I have is on the walls at the edge of the opening. I have the cam action latches also. The issue I don't like about mine is when the doors are closed, they don't seal against end of the floor so there is a gap. Windy days have the doors moving in and out a couple of inches (in the center where they meet). I'm finding it hard to explain. If I can make it home in the daylight today I'll take a couple of pics.
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks Bill. So, nothing really holds that cap in and it doesn't really serve as a trolley stop?
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks Catscratch. I just got these hung yesterday, and yes, I can already see the exact same thing you're talking about. I can get a decent seal I think with some kind of garage door weather striping on the top and down both walls. I have a 1.5" gap between the bottom of my doors and my cement pad on the bottom. Think what I'll do is add a PT 2x6 to close that gap as much as I can.
I think down the road I may end up shutting these doors semi-permanently early winter and sealing them up for the winter so I can heat the barn and not lose all my warmth.
Bill
Administrator
I think it’s a friction fit cap. That or it’s an either or deal. Friction fit cap or maybe turn it on its side with a carriage bolt and large washer to use as a stop. That diagram shows both but I’m not sure if the stop is just the cap turned sideways or a separate piece. Mines about 800 miles away or I’d run out and look :)
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks again Bill. I didn't see the pic of the cap inside the rail with the bolt through it. That makes sense.
Catscratch
5 year old buck +
A treated 2x6 is exactly what I had been planning. I was also considering setting a pipe into the ground or attached to the 2x6 with a drop down rod (on the door) to push into the hole for added stability.
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Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks Tree Spud. I may be a craftsman, but it took me 10 minutes of fiddling with the doors on the outside to figure out why they weren't opening all the way. They kept hitting something and I couldn't figure out if it was a piece of batten they were hitting or something to do with the box rail. Finally figured out that my handles on the inside were hitting the inside of each door jamb. Had to remove them. Felt like an idiot.
Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Here are a few pics of the bottoms of my doors. A 2x6 will close the gap pretty decently. Unlike the sides and top though I won't be able to use a piece of weather stripping to make it air tight.
After figuring out that I could not mount my door handles to the horizontal pine 2x6's, I now realize that I have no clearance between any of the pine 2x6's and my door jambs...which is good for keeping it nice and weathertight. But like you I was thinking about adding some kind of a drop down rod or a lock or something. I'll now have to rethink this, as anything I add to the inside will prevent the doors from opening all the way.
Catscratch
5 year old buck +
The cam locks I have on the jams and the one in the center that holds the doors together....
My door stops are on the outside on both top and bottom. The bottom ones hold the bottom of the doors to the shop well (while open on windy days).
I just need to secure the bottom center while shut, and close up the gap some.
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My door stops are on the outside on both top and bottom. The bottom ones hold the bottom of the doors to the shop well (while open on windy days).
I just need to secure the bottom center while shut, and close up the gap some.
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Natty Bumppo
5 year old buck +
Thanks Catscratch. Those pics were helpful. Appreciate you taking the time to post.
