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Turkey Creek

5 year old buck +
This old barn is on the farm we bought last year. The piece on the ground was a lean to that was attached to this side of the barn. Wind separated it last Spring and I went ahead and helped it to the ground with the tractor. Started disassembling it last week. Some of the tin will be the walls for a "new" elevated blind for the kids to rifle hunt out of and the rest I will incorporate into something within the new house. The wide boards I will let age in the sun for a year until they all weather evenly. Probably use them for the walls in my office. I don't know when the barn was built, I would guess before 1950, I dont think they have built wood barns like that since at least then. It is crazy how heavy the boards are even they have been drying for at least 50 years I would guess. You don't find wood like that in aisle 19 at Menards. Old lumber speaks to my soul.


old tin and wood.jpg
 
I've got an old barn on my place the neighbor told me the original owner "when it was a working cattle" farm built it out of cottonwood cut on the farm. There are some floorboards boards in the hay storage attic that are over 24" wide. I had the Amish put metal over the wood years ago. The roof was starting to fail and I like these old barns.
 
We have a old barn on our family farm in Nebraska that is over 100 years old. My grandparents had tin put on it when I was younger, took away some of the charm, but its still structurally sound which is more important. My youngest brother and I had talked about turning the hayloft into a wood shop a few years ago.
 
Love those old barns and the wood looks like it's in great condition!
 
I was given some wood from an old barn down the road and told it was cottonwood. Was it a good material? Or simply the only trees big enough around to build such a structure? I often wonder.


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Cottonwood doesn’t attract wood bees and is actually not a horrible substitute wood for pine or Douglas fir in contruction. It’s my wood of choice to make contruction lumber from locally. I’ve also used walnut, sycamore and oak i have one garden shed that’s divided into two rooms one for feed and garden tools the other side is the chicken coop the dividing wall is 1” walnut blanks because it’s what I had on hand at the time.
 
Cottonwood doesn’t attract wood bees and is actually not a horrible substitute wood for pine or Douglas fir in contruction. It’s my wood of choice to make contruction lumber from locally. I’ve also used walnut, sycamore and oak i have one garden shed that’s divided into two rooms one for feed and garden tools the other side is the chicken coop the dividing wall is 1” walnut blanks because it’s what I had on hand at the time.

That’s like a $1M chicken coop all of a sudden.


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The blind is coming along. Hopefully finish it up before the end of the year.


elevated blind progress.jpg
 
Cottonwood will get so hard you have to drill it to drive a nail
 
I looks like you cemented your legs in which is good.I built one with straight legs barely 6 to bottom.It blew over twice.I just set a post right up against the blind on the north and south side in cement and put legs on I like using the angled leg mounts.I also see your propane heater hose.Keep eye on.Really never figured it would happen but saw 2 bad fires in deer blind from heaters rodents chewed hoses they think.Just happened last week. from what I read
 
Actually I used 30" steel leg anchors/ sleeves for the post bases . You pound them into the ground and the 4 x 4 post clamps into them and each has a couple of heavy duty structural screws holding the leg into the metal base. I am also running guidewires to the top of the legs on each corner that are attached to in ground anchors. Good advice on the hose. I wont leave the heater or the line in the blind for the most part except when we will be hunting.
 
Actually I used 30" steel leg anchors/ sleeves for the post bases . You pound them into the ground and the 4 x 4 post clamps into them and each has a couple of heavy duty structural screws holding the leg into the metal base. I am also running guidewires to the top of the legs on each corner that are attached to in ground anchors. Good advice on the hose. I wont leave the heater or the line in the blind for the most part except when we will be hunting.

Looks good! We used one of those anchors for our mailbox. County made us move it back like 8”… It took the skid loader to pull it out of the ground.


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Straight legs make it alot easier to tip than the angled brackets but sounds like you got that secure
 
I think I am going to line the inside of it with rockwool panels. They are fire resistant, good sound deadening (hard to be quite in a metal box) and will add a little bit of insulation value. Trying to decide what to put down over the plywood floor to quite it, possibly cheap carpet?
 
Maybe a layer of high density foam then carpet to protect it, bet the feet would stay a bit warmer idk for sure what it might sound like however anyone try that?
 
I think I am going to line the inside of it with rockwool panels. They are fire resistant, good sound deadening (hard to be quite in a metal box) and will add a little bit of insulation value. Trying to decide what to put down over the plywood floor to quite it, possibly cheap carpet?
Horse stall mat.
 
Horse stall mat.
I had thought about that as well. Just didnt know how much sound deadening it would provide .... especially if the temperatures are cold.
 
Fun project. What method do you like best for peeling the tin off?
 
Fun project. What method do you like best for peeling the tin off?
"Like" is a subjective term. LOL A flat bar (Wonder Bar) underneath the tin prying it up enough to get the nail started coming loose and then switching to the nail head side of the tin to pry it out the rest of the way is how most of them were removed.
 
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