The problem with growing trees in smooth containers is that roots will circle or j-hook. This causes them to constrict themselves over time and reduces what they can uptake. So, unless trees are grown in a root pruning container system, you really have to remove enough medium at planting time to look for and manually prune them. This can remove a significant amount of root system and slow the growth, but in the long run, it is better than circling roots. So, this is one possibility.
The second possibility is planting technique. I had an issue with Jujube trees. I have heavy clay soil and I dug a large hole and amended the soil that I filled the hole with. They grew very well for a number of years. One year we got a storm with lots of wind and several blew over. What I found was that the amended soil was so nice, the roots were reluctant to penetrate the clay. So, no large stabilizing roots were in the native clay. I ended up saving the trees by staking them upright and then dumping a couple FEL buckets of clay and mounding it around the trees. This has provides sufficient weight to keep them from blowing over since, but I don't know if the roots ever penetrated the clay or not. With clay soil, it is probably better not to amend the soil. If planting from a non-root pruning container, I'd remove the medium and discard it and plant it like a bare root tree without amending the soil.
I have been able to retain the medium with trees I've planted from root pruning containers. This is because I dig the hole exactly the size of the container (with an auger). The lateral root don't have far to grow to penetrate the native clay and there are no circling roots with these containers.
The last possibility is the root stock. I'm guessing the Lowes rootstock is unknown. Some rootstocks are more suitable than others for particular soils. Find out what local orchards use. In my area the semi-dwarf most used in our soils is M111. I recently planted a couple trees on B118. Time will tell how they do here.
Thanks,
Jack
