U-post spacing

Knehrke

5 year old buck +
I'm looking to install some deer fence around several small areas where I'm trying to introduce conifers and shrubs. The shorter tubes I've used for shrubs simply show the deer where the buffet table is located. I purchased the lighter black mesh fencing from Deerbusters, and I'm looking for advice on keeping the cost down. My plan it to use 7' U-posts (although I'm open to suggestions) and I need to figure out spacing. I see 5' on the manufacturer's site, but I'm assuming that's so they can see more stakes lol. What's reasonable? Any random advice? Thanks!
 
Someone on here posted once a video of using plastic mesh fence to protect their orchard. Not sure details but I remember a top wire and a pair of hog ring pliers to attach the net to the top wire so you could pull tension around and have a smooth net. It looked pretty efficient on the video. I haven’t tried it myself. We made a garden fence from chain link scraps and wire. My deer don’t seem to stop till the fence is at 8 ft min. 7’6” where it sags and they jump. It’s amazing how high they can jump. Good luck. The orchard guys on here will know the tricks for you if your search for fencing threads doesn’t find it.
 
If you can tension a cheap cable to help prevent sags you’ll do fine. I haven’t done such for deer purposes. But have used similar fencing for other reasons. I’ve used the 7 foot posts. I’ve also used rigid pipe (im an electrician so always extra of the big jobs that gets thrown out). My concern would be deer going under a mesh fence. So when I’ve used pure mesh I’ve left the bottoms long and then used logs and laid em across the bottom on a friends place.

On a club property I helped out on we used 7 foot posts and then 4foot welded wire for the bottom (kept things from crawling under) and then cheap mesh up top. The bottom posts we laid out and secured the wire fence. The top I simply used stainless steel tire wire (called a stone by iron workers....my buddy is an iron worker and the Stuff will not rust or break easily) and laced it through the mesh up top and secured at each post. This gave us zero sag. On the bottom we secured at each post as well.

Was there for 7 years with zero maintenance until things were established enough to remove it.
 
Thanks for the advice. Luckily the areas I'm fencing are relatively small, pockets of trees or shrubs, and they're already screened and tubed. Tension at the top, stakes at the bottom. Got it.
 
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