Stake Hi, Low, or Not At All?

[Tree Spud]

I have been reading a bit on staking and there seems to be different schools of thought. Staking higher up on a tree, say above the first limb, minimizes wind impact but does not allow the main trunk to develop the fibrous structure to with stand wind later on. I have seen these in hardwoods that I tubed. Those that I remove the tube after first year or caged from the start, are far stronger trunk wise than those that I had let grow for several years in a tube.

Some advocate that staking should be done low, maybe 6"-8" above the bud graft. This helps to minimize wind impact which can cause root shift yet allows the main trunk to be exposed to the wind and form the necessary fibrous structure.

Some say no staking at all is required. The belief being that this not only allows a stronger main stem to form but also promotes a more vigorous root system.

What are your thoughts and experiences?

 

[sandbur]

There are so many variables that there will be no definite answer, but you do provide some good suggestions for thought.

I suspect the answer varies with rootstock, variety of apple on top, pruning on top, and exposure to a windy prairie environment versus a clearing in a woodland or area protected by a windbreak.

The wild trees growing in our prairie environs look completely different than those a friend has in his northeastern US woodlands.

I am changing the direction of your thread, but also wonder if trees in a windy environment should have a different style of pruning with more of a dense/shorter structure that shades the trunk, at least in areas where sunscauld occurs.


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[Charman03]

I gently stake mine with 10-15 foot conduit lengths to keep them growing straight and not bent over at the top.

 

[willy]

I think soil type that the tree is planted in helps dictate staking. lighter soil, rocky soil, staked, clay, heavy clay not staked. I have planted all my trees in heavy clay or heavy bottom soil and none are staked, no issues so far in ten years.

 

[Buckly]

I always stake newly planted fruit trees. You really don’t want the trunk moving around as it causes root suckers and also the roots being shallow on fruit trees, the back and forth movement could cause the tree to die. If it’s a dwarf tree then it will need permanent staking not only to get established but to hold up the tree for heavy fruit loads. They’re more for orchard production anyways Semi standard and standard for wildlife, I would still stake the tree. doesn’t matter if it’s low or high just keep the roots from moving. After establishment those standard or semi standard trees shouldn’t need the stake anymore.

 

[yoderjac]

I have been reading a bit on staking and there seems to be different schools of thought. Staking higher up on a tree, say above the first limb, minimizes wind impact but does not allow the main trunk to develop the fibrous structure to with stand wind later on. I have seen these in hardwoods that I tubed. Those that I remove the tube after first year or caged from the start, are far stronger trunk wise than those that I had let grow for several years in a tube.

Some advocate that staking should be done low, maybe 6"-8" above the bud graft. This helps to minimize wind impact which can cause root shift yet allows the main trunk to be exposed to the wind and form the necessary fibrous structure.

Some say no staking at all is required. The belief being that this not only allows a stronger main stem to form but also promotes a more vigorous root system.

What are your thoughts and experiences?

I look at it differently. I want a tree to flex but not so much that it is damaged. There are several ways to do this. On is to use a stake that flexes a lot. Another is to use movement limiters. I've used rope threaded through cages to limit movement. You need to watch for rubbing if the tree is young and the bark is still soft. When I was growing a lot of chestnuts from nuts under lights, I found they could get quite lanky and needed support in containers. I used safety flags for stakes. They bend easily but won't let the unhardened stalks break and trains them vertically until they can harden. When trees are planted in the field, as long as they don't get fruit too early they can typically stand on their own. As long as they stand vertically without wind, I'd rather limit the amount they can move rather than staking them directly.

Another method to accomplish this is to use multiple stakes around the tree. Guys that used welded wire cages often need multiple t-posts so this works for them. Use an old hose or other material that won't hurt the tree. Attach a wires or cord to the stakes and the hose that goes around the tree. They all need to be loose enough that the tree can move in all directions but will hit the limit of the cords before it can topple or break.

The strength and regularity of the wind in your area can influence the method you use.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Rit]

Here is one that I staked low. I am now having problems with the tops bending too far even under low or no wind conditions. I put in a 10’ piece of EMT the other day and used flexible tape to tie it off in all kinds of directions. The tree was potted and rather tall when I bought it. I probably should have listened and pruned some of it off. I may need to add another piece of EMT. It’s in an open area but protected slightly from S/SW winds from the woods. If I was to do it over I would have staked it better from the start and higher up the tree. My smaller trees I use very little staking but sometimes limit movement as Jack suggest. Usually via flexible tape onto the remesh cages.

 

[TreeDaddy]

Check the attention to detail in above set up^^^^^^

Even a bed of clover for a little gratuitous nitrogen fixation!

nice work

bill

 

[Tree Spud]

There are so many variables that there will be no definite answer, but you do provide some good suggestions for thought.

I suspect the answer varies with rootstock, variety of apple on top, pruning on top, and exposure to a windy prairie environment versus a clearing in a woodland or area protected by a windbreak.

The wild trees growing in our prairie environs look completely different than those a friend has in his northeastern US woodlands.

I am changing the direction of your thread, but also wonder if trees in a windy environment should have a different style of pruning with more of a dense/shorter structure that shades the trunk, at least in areas where sunscauld occurs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not changing at all, you raise a good question. I see many farms in my area where the apple trees are pruned for horizontal growth vs upward. Most of these trees are very mature with large diameter trunks.

 

[Tree Spud]

I think soil type that the tree is planted in helps dictate staking. lighter soil, rocky soil, staked, clay, heavy clay not staked. I have planted all my trees in heavy clay or heavy bottom soil and none are staked, no issues so far in ten years.

Our soil in the areas we have planted is a loamy sand, we have some in more bottom land also. In your bottom land trees, have they reached a fruit bearing point that you can evaluate how added weight is impacting tree?

 

[willy]

Our soil in the areas we have planted is a loamy sand, we have some in more bottom land also. In your bottom land trees, have they reached a fruit bearing point that you can evaluate how added weight is impacting tree?

They have produced some heavy crops and I have seen no impact of not staking. There is/was no lean to the tree. They are as upright as can be. They have grown vigorously.

 

[Tree Spud]

Here is one that I staked low. I am now having problems with the tops bending too far even under low or no wind conditions. I put in a 10’ piece of EMT the other day and used flexible tape to tie it off in all kinds of directions. The tree was potted and rather tall when I bought it. I probably should have listened and pruned some of it off. I may need to add another piece of EMT. It’s in an open area but protected slightly from S/SW winds from the woods. If I was to do it over I would have staked it better from the start and higher up the tree. My smaller trees I use very little staking but sometimes limit movement as Jack suggest. Usually via flexible tape onto the remesh cages.

I was considering to cut my EMT in half if I was only going to stake low. Now I think I will use the whole 10' to stake as that will give me options as each tree evolves & grows.

I still like the concept staking low to stabilize root system as on our upper fields they will be exposed to winds. This should still allow the main trunk & upper tree to be exposed to winds for structural development.

 

[yoderjac]

Not changing at all, you raise a good question. I see many farms in my area where the apple trees are pruned for horizontal growth vs upward. Most of these trees are very mature with large diameter trunks.

I think open vase pruning is typical with apple trees in orchards. It allows more light in to provide more production closer to the ground for easier harvest and maintenance.

If you use EMT, be sure to make the connections very loose to the tree can blow quite a bit to strengthen the trunk. Narrow diameter PVC has more flex but is harder to install. Connections to it should still be loose. If a tree becomes loose in the soil so it actually moves, then you might need tighter staking for a short time. Mounding more soil (and heavier soil) around the trunk can also help with stability. Apples will generally put roots into it.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[H20fwler]

I've got loamy clay. I stake them low when first planted and a few years later I stake them about 4'-5' high because the wind in spring gets so bad here. I use a 2x2 wood stake with wire through a piece of garden hose around trunk.

 

[Tree Spud]

I've got loamy clay. I stake them low when first planted and a few years later I stake them about 4'-5' high because the wind in spring gets so bad here. I use a 2x2 wood stake with wire through a piece of garden hose around trunk.

How far above the graft did you initially stake them?

 

[H20fwler]

How far above the graft did you initially stake them?

About two feet.

 

[buckdeer1]

I use arbor lock and it is rubber so there is some flex and is easily adjustable

 

[Rit]

We had some pretty heavy storms and wind yesterday. I don’t really want to venture into the orchard.

 

[Tree Spud]

I use arbor lock and it is rubber so there is some flex and is easily adjustable

Link?

 

[Tree Spud]

We had some pretty heavy storms and wind yesterday. I don’t really want to venture into the orchard.

Same here. Heavy winds recently. Glad for all the rain as that helps everything we have planted get a good start with less stress.