Miscanthus Giaganteus propagation from cuttings.

This thread is now 5 years old

Bill,J-bird,Scott and others,

Would you share "lessons learned" from experience with propagation from cuttings?

What works? What doesn't? etc

thanks,


bill
 
This thread is now 5 years old

Bill,J-bird,Scott and others,

Would you share "lessons learned" from experience with propagation from cuttings?

What works? What doesn't? etc

thanks,


bill

Hopefully j-bird chimes in. He has grown more plants from cuttings than anyone I know of.

I haven’t started any in the last few years. But the things that worked when I did were.

Start then as early as possible. (Mid to late June)
Use the bottom node.
Start them in a jar of water until they root.
Once potted keep them watered but not soaked.
Winter protection is a must the first winter, potted or in the ground. Mulch or hay over them.
 
This thread is now 5 years old

Bill,J-bird,Scott and others,

Would you share "lessons learned" from experience with propagation from cuttings?

What works? What doesn't? etc

thanks,


bill

Everything Bill said.

Bill had an idea of cutting the nodes in about 1" sections and trying to get them to root. I tried this and it really didn't work, I ran out of time to plant them and they didn't have much if any root system. I planted them anyways and had no takers, I'd like to try this again and start them earlier but I haven't yet.

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I have some I planted in our yard, my sons weed whacked them 2 yrs in a row thinking they were weeds and they still have grown decent.

2014
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2019
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Sorry - Without being tagged or the like I wasn't aware my attention was needed (Thanks Bill for the PM).

OK.....so - I have grown MG from cuttings twice now. Both rounds of cuttings have come from Bill, so I can't speak to how and when to actually take the cuttings. Bill simply sends them to me with a square end (top) and and angled end (bottom). I think I outlined what I did in my property tour thread.....you just have to dig Page 12 for the first attempt and page 28 for the second round. I would tell you to ignore the nonsense....but then I wouldn't have a thread! Between my photos and comment sin my thread as well as my asking questions and the like in this thread you should have a good idea of what to expect....and if I can do it...you certainly can as well.

I stick them in a container of water only covering the bottom node. I really pack them in there and I tend to use a clear container just so I can see the roots. I sit the water outside in as direct sunlight as I have and simply keep the water full. I put nothing in the water, I don't try to monitor water temp or anything like that....just my plain old out of the faucet water. After a few weeks...the lower node will start sprouting some roots and the upper node will start growing a blade of grass. Normally it starts as a little green horn shaped thing. Sometimes the grass comes from the same node as the roots as well. I was very tempted to plant right away, but I was advised not to and thus I wait for further root development. Once the roots got further developed I plant in 100% potting soil in small containers (quart size I think). I then water frequently thru the summer. At the end of summer I then transplant to their permanent home....and they are on their own. I have not overwintered them in their containers.

I have tried putting cutting straight into the ground, but they didn't survive.....but I didn't baby them either. I'm sure if you really tried to grow them that way you could have some success....I'm just too lazy and I have far more success being able to grow things on the back deck since it's easier and more convenient to attend to them.

From cutting to in the ground I have had roughly a 75%+ survival rate. Some cutting simply don't grow....some start to but struggle and die later. I'm sure there is more I could do to help, but I only want the strong.

If I can help just let me know...but you will see I asked a lot of questions along the way form the real experts. I have not dug any up to propagate by rhizome or the like but at some point that will probably be in the cards as I expand the application of MG at my place. I think MG can be very useful for screens as long as they have fairly dry feet and lots of sun.
 
Due to some work being done, I had to transplant some full rhizome clumps of grass here in August. Not ideal on timing, do you think they will survive transplant in the summer heat? The grass started turning color within a couple days...
 
Due to some work being done, I had to transplant some full rhizome clumps of grass here in August. Not ideal on timing, do you think they will survive transplant in the summer heat? The grass started turning color within a couple days...

Give them water now and then if you can.

If you got the roots planted well and their not sitting in air pockets I’d say they may suffer some for this year but they should survive. Their pretty tough.
 
Both rhyzomes and clusters started out relly good this spring and then the water was turned off not much rain and most are only 2-3' tall with most of the taller ones being clusters. It looks like the clusters win in a drier year, not sure about a wetter year. My guess is that 3-4 yrs you won't be able to tell the difference JMO.

Clusters on the right and rhyzomes on the left.

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When you say "lower node" did you cut and only use the lower few inches of one full bamboo stick (for lack of better term). Or were you able to get multiple cuttings from one full stick, just knowing that the lowest note had to be bottom down ?
 
I absolutely love this stuff planted mine as road screen two springs ago and it gets thicker every year.
Bad thing is that the old guys that work for the county love to reach out and mow it when they go by and do the ditches a couple times in summer and fall. I put up “Do Not Mow” signs this past summer and they still mowed it again, I called a buddy that works for the county and pretty much lost my shit he had his boss call me.
I explained in detail what I was trying to accomplish he gave me a lot of excuses and I talked a lot about taxes and who owned the property. He ended up coming out to look at the area and how far off the road it was and he said he would talk to the old guys that do the mowing.
These old guys have had complaints about mowing standing corn and beans with their mechanical arm around telephone poles before costing farmers some $$$ too. Hopefully next year now mine will get a chance to reach for the sky and get to be a road block like intended.
 
I absolutely love this stuff planted mine as road screen two springs ago and it gets thicker every year.
Bad thing is that the old guys that work for the county love to reach out and mow it when they go by and do the ditches a couple times in summer and fall. I put up “Do Not Mow” signs this past summer and they still mowed it again, I called a buddy that works for the county and pretty much lost my shit he had his boss call me.
I explained in detail what I was trying to accomplish he gave me a lot of excuses and I talked a lot about taxes and who owned the property. He ended up coming out to look at the area and how far off the road it was and he said he would talk to the old guys that do the mowing.
These old guys have had complaints about mowing standing corn and beans with their mechanical arm around telephone poles before costing farmers some $$$ too. Hopefully next year now mine will get a chance to reach for the sky and get to be a road block like intended.

Time to drive some 2” black iron pipes in the ground in front of them. :emoji_stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:
 
When you say "lower node" did you cut and only use the lower few inches of one full bamboo stick (for lack of better term). Or were you able to get multiple cuttings from one full stick, just knowing that the lowest note had to be bottom down ?

The best way to do it is a cutting with 2 nodes. The very bottom one in a jar under water and the second above water.

It’s not that you can’t use the higher nodes. It’s just that they are not as successful and they will definitely take longer to root. If you do try nodes higher up I suggest you keep them in separate jars of water. A jar for first nodes and a second and even third for higher ones.

And node is speaking of the pronounced rings on the bamboo looking shoot. The very bottom one grows roots the best.
 
The best way to do it is a cutting with 2 nodes. The very bottom one in a jar under water and the second above water.

It’s not that you can’t use the higher nodes. It’s just that they are not as successful and they will definitely take longer to root. If you do try nodes higher up I suggest you keep them in separate jars of water. A jar for first nodes and a second and even third for higher ones.

And node is speaking of the pronounced rings on the bamboo looking shoot. The very bottom one grows roots the best.

Excellent, thanks for your help Bill
 
Wow!

This thread started in 2014 and Paul Knox AKA lickcreek, doubletree introduced me to it in 2010 or earlier.
Well, it is America. Nothing wrong with capitalism and if you have the audience why not. Seems we have a source cheaper than Maple rivers for under 1000 rhizomes but not over.

Can’t verify the study stuff as real or not. But a source is a source.

https://www.realworldwildlifeproducts.com/product/real-world-giant-miscanthus-grass/
 
I got an indication that rw is selling the cold hardiest strain nagara...I’ve had some winter kill on my land in Wisconsin, been planting it since 2008 but believe most of what I’ve are the Illinois variety, so I am giving a try. It would be interesting to see if vendors could provide info in what strains they have available, I don’t recall seeing that.
 
I got an indication that rw is selling the cold hardiest strain nagara...I’ve had some winter kill on my land in Wisconsin, been planting it since 2008 but believe most of what I’ve are the Illinois variety, so I am giving a try. It would be interesting to see if vendors could provide info in what strains they have available, I don’t recall seeing that.

My first 10 came from a Canadian source. Don’t even remember who or where but they were stupid expensive.
When I bought 1000’s it was from maple rivers in MI. Much more cost friendly. Both worked well in M.O.

I’m all for new sources. More power to Don if he found a more cold hardy strain.
The, I discovered it chaps my ass, but hey that’s just me :emoji_smile: And for the record officially, nowhere does it say they discovered it. But as always, perfected it.
I’ve been at this a long time and the ultimate buck bed chaps my ass too :emoji_scream:.
We’re a dying breed, just giving free information because we love what we do is going to be a lost art....

And not 30:minutes ago I recommended RW switch. Don’t know if it’s a CIR/Kanlow mix and don’t care. Just said check pricing as to what’s best for the buyer.

I may actually try some to see about this more leaf thing. I like to dare to compare. Last time I was wrong.
 
I just went back and checked, I got 1000 plugs from new energy farms, Illinois variety. Compared to rhizomes the plugs were way, way easier to plant. My success was about the same in both I’d say, wish they still had plugs available. Took me 2-3 days to plant 1000 rhizomes and got all the plugs in in one day I believe
 
I just went back and checked, I got 1000 plugs from new energy farms, Illinois variety. Compared to rhizomes the plugs were way, way easier to plant. My success was about the same in both I’d say, wish they still had plugs available. Took me 2-3 days to plant 1000 rhizomes and got all the plugs in in one day I believe

Please tell more!! I contacted NEF years ago about planting their plugs. “Kinda like a wine cork?”
They shot me down. Only wanted biofuel people back then and I think the minimum order was like 10,000.
 
So I was only able to order from them twice and then they were only selling to the large biomass customers. One order was rhizomes, the other was plugs that were just like size 4a tree plugs, not the ceeds (cork looking things) that they eventually came up with and still promote
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I also ordered my first miscanthus from New Energy Farms many years ago. Now I’m told they don’t sell direct to consumers into the states. And yes the “wine cork” is their patented “CEED” that would be a dream to plant, just like a plug. Unfortunately doesn’t seem like we can get our hands on them.
 
My first 10 came from a Canadian source. Don’t even remember who or where but they were stupid expensive.
When I bought 1000’s it was from maple rivers in MI. Much more cost friendly. Both worked well in M.O.

I’m all for new sources. More power to Don if he found a more cold hardy strain.
The, I discovered it chaps my ass, but hey that’s just me :emoji_smile: And for the record officially, nowhere does it say they discovered it. But as always, perfected it.
I’ve been at this a long time and the ultimate buck bed chaps my ass too :emoji_scream:.
We’re a dying breed, just giving free information because we love what we do is going to be a lost art....

And not 30:minutes ago I recommended RW switch. Don’t know if it’s a CIR/Kanlow mix and don’t care. Just said check pricing as to what’s best for the buyer.

I may actually try some to see about this more leaf thing. I like to dare to compare. Last time I was wrong.

They simply licensed that strain. Surprisingly there are many different strains of this stuff. Good old capitalism. But yeah I’m thankful for this site and the old QDMA forum where we find/share advice to help wildlife- no marketing strings attached.
 
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