Foggy's Deertopia Proving Grounds - Happenings

How tall you figure your rye is now? Mine was about 8” sunday.


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How tall you figure your rye is now? Mine was about 8” sunday.


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I may have some as tall as 15 to 18". It does vary a bit depending on sunlight situations. Much of it is a foot high. I'd bet it will grow another foot in the next week.....especially If we get some rain.
 
SD stopped by today and we did a little land tour at my place. Fun to help him hook up a seeder and to show him my place. We saw a newborn fawn....tying to amble into some cover on some pretty shaky legs......and saw a few turkeys. Clover is coming on strong now.......and as you can see in today's pic below......the deer are putting on some lbs after a tough winter.

Mystery why some of my rye is flourishing and it's very weak in other areas.
putting on some lbs.jpeg
 
That was a good time man. It was neat to see your place!


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I’ve moved drive wheel down to next to lowest setting. Really nothing I plant needs to be over about an inch deep.

I planted with it on the middle setting this past fall, and my plants seem to get a slow start. I think they were all planted too deep. They came on great the spring, but I am planting much more shallow this year. Also, we put a thick layer of thatch over the top which acts like soil also.

[mention]omicron1792 [/mention] [mention]Foggy47 [/mention] I used my 3p500 for the first time this last weekend. I had the issue where if I leveled out the drill the front drive wheel would no longer touch the ground. But with it trimmed forward I didn’t feel I got the depth I wanted. The manual seemed to state not to adjust the wheel position for hard soil but also that the drill should be level. Seems contradictory unless there is something I am missing. Any thoughts? Sorry I hope I am not thread jacking. This is all very good information I’m so glad I discovered this forum.
 
SD stopped by today and we did a little land tour at my place. Fun to help him hook up a seeder and to show him my place. We saw a newborn fawn....tying to amble into some cover on some pretty shaky legs......and saw a few turkeys. Clover is coming on strong now.......and as you can see in today's pic below......the deer are putting on some lbs after a tough winter.

Mystery why some of my rye is flourishing and it's very weak in other areas.
View attachment 53092
I hope you showed him what grid power can do. ;)
 
[mention]omicron1792 [/mention] [mention]Foggy47 [/mention] I used my 3p500 for the first time this last weekend. I had the issue where if I leveled out the drill the front drive wheel would no longer touch the ground. But with it trimmed forward I didn’t feel I got the depth I wanted. The manual seemed to state not to adjust the wheel position for hard soil but also that the drill should be level. Seems contradictory unless there is something I am missing. Any thoughts? Sorry I hope I am not thread jacking. This is all very good information I’m so glad I discovered this forum.
I moved my drive wheel to the location noted as "standard" in the operators manual. I think I could move it one more location to make the drill still more shallow. I have pretty light soils and dont need to plant more than an inch in depth......and many seeds only need to be about 1/4" deep. With this done.....I think most of the fine tuning can be done with the closing wheels and / or my hydraulic top link.
 
I hope you showed him what grid power can do. ;)
Sure did. We had to drill some holes and needed some good lighting and run my well to wash up. I did not fire up my welder....but nearly had to do so. He didn't say much.....but I could tell he was lusting for grid power. Grin.
 
[mention]omicron1792 [/mention] [mention]Foggy47 [/mention] I used my 3p500 for the first time this last weekend. I had the issue where if I leveled out the drill the front drive wheel would no longer touch the ground. But with it trimmed forward I didn’t feel I got the depth I wanted. The manual seemed to state not to adjust the wheel position for hard soil but also that the drill should be level. Seems contradictory unless there is something I am missing. Any thoughts? Sorry I hope I am not thread jacking. This is all very good information I’m so glad I discovered this forum.
Do you have a hydraulic top link? As foggy said that’s the main way to adjust depth. I think it would be pretty hard to manage without one. If in big huge flat fields maybe. In irregular food plots I adjust it with top link all the time.
 
Do you have a hydraulic top link? As foggy said that’s the main way to adjust depth. I think it would be pretty hard to manage without one. If in big huge flat fields maybe. In irregular food plots I adjust it with top link all the time.
When I am drilling seeds.....I am watching for that seed delivery system to keep turning. On these 3P drills....it's fairly easy to watch that 1" hex shaft go around. But I was thinking that I should paint some black and white stripes on each of those hex flats in order to better keep an eye on things. As OMI says.....that hydraulic top link is super useful to make adjustments on the fly as conditions (elevations) change. Anytime that hex shaft stops turning......it's time to pull the front end a bit lower......not much....just an inch or two. Then....most times.....just back off again after the change in undulation. I think these 3P drills are somewhat sensitive to these changes.....and the hydraulic top link solves allot.
 
Nice place you have there Foggy, everything looks great! Super jealous of your tractor and implements man!
 
When I am drilling seeds.....I am watching for that seed delivery system to keep turning. On these 3P drills....it's fairly easy to watch that 1" hex shaft go around. But I was thinking that I should paint some black and white stripes on each of those hex flats in order to better keep an eye on things. As OMI says.....that hydraulic top link is super useful to make adjustments on the fly as conditions (elevations) change. Anytime that hex shaft stops turning......it's time to pull the front end a bit lower......not much....just an inch or two. Then....most times.....just back off again after the change in undulation. I think these 3P drills are somewhat sensitive to these changes.....and the hydraulic top link solves allot.

I didn’t get the hydraulics. I felt like I was going overboard in so many other areas that that would be one area to draw the line. I didn’t feel like I had many times the wheel lost contact once I got going but I had set the drill with a slight forward lean.
The first field I was just drilling into fescue pasture that had been sprayed a couple times. I felt like the drill was just scratching the surface and dropping the seed on top. The other couple fields I ended up running a disc and then felt like I had much better results, but obviously the goal is not to use the disc.
I was thinking I might move the top link down to a lower hole and see if that changes the geometry at all. There are 3 settings for its position and it was in the top hole.



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Speaking of hydraulic top links, what’s the best spot to purchase from? I still need to add one to my L3560. I have the rear remotes to accommodate one, just haven't bought it yet.
 
Speaking of hydraulic top links, what’s the best spot to purchase from? I still need to add one to my L3560. I have the rear remotes to accommodate one, just haven't bought it yet.
I bought mine online, Amazon. Has been great and installed myself. Easy
 
I didn’t get the hydraulics. I felt like I was going overboard in so many other areas that that would be one area to draw the line. I didn’t feel like I had many times the wheel lost contact once I got going but I had set the drill with a slight forward lean.
The first field I was just drilling into fescue pasture that had been sprayed a couple times. I felt like the drill was just scratching the surface and dropping the seed on top. The other couple fields I ended up running a disc and then felt like I had much better results, but obviously the goal is not to use the disc.
I was thinking I might move the top link down to a lower hole and see if that changes the geometry at all. There are 3 settings for its position and it was in the top hole.



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They cost about 200 bucks. After paying 10k for a drill. Just get one.
 
I'm not sure if I bought mine at the Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska, or from Agri Supply (dont remember). I was careful to get the longer size as I have the Pat's EZ change hitch on my lower links. Also the right length hoses help allot. You may want to "noodle around" on the Tractor By Net site......to get some good suggestions. Not an expensive deal for what it provides.
 
They cost about 200 bucks. After paying 10k for a drill. Just get one.
Yeah I get that but I don't have the rear remotes.
 
Yeah I get that but I don't have the rear remotes.
Depending on tractor brand.....that can be fairly inexpensive......or more likely.....hard to swallow. Low cost on a Kubota.....high on a Deere (typically). <-----BTDT......I bought a new tractor and have lots of hydraulic options. I have two sets of rear remotes and a set out front to operate my grapple. I need the two rear remotes for my stump grinder and when operating my flail mower. Lots of hydraulic options do cost a bit.....but dont limit you on operating implements.
 
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I paid the big $ kubota asks for the remotes to be added at dealership (a little under $2k last spring for 2 sets IIRC) because i didn't want to mess with it and knew it'd be a cleaner install than DIY. However, a kit from https://www.tractorinnovations.com/kubota is notably cheaper and the install didn't look too bad. Word is their valves are better than the factory kubota ones as well.

That place also has hydraulic top link kits that might be a hair more expensive than others but they seem to have a good following.
 
Spent the day getting my Cuddelink game cameras set up for the season......and did a little mowing around my barn and cabin. It is bone dry at my place.....and any clover that gets full day sun is starting to shrivel up and wither from lack of rain. The winter rye I planted last fall is quite erratic in it's growth this year....but overall it is weak even in the best areas. Far weaker in many areas. Not sure what to think of the rye. Good clover in all my plots despite the rye growth. It seemed the rye was pretty well growing in the fall.....so I find it interesting that the rye is not thicker in some areas. Here are some random plot pics of my clover and rye. The clover is pretty thick and about 10" high for the most part. Lots of dandelions and a few other weeds....and some areas have a little grass.....but overall my clover is fairly clean. About 8 acres of red and white clover mixed. In July I will nuke some areas (strips) and plant a brassica mix. And roller/crimp the rye.

At this point I got great food and fawning cover......and now abundant food sources via the trees and shrubs too. Seeing several deer and fawns now.......and cameras will give me a better inventory.
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