I may have some as tall as 15 to 18". It does vary a bit depending on sunlight situations. Much of it is a foot high. I'd bet it will grow another foot in the next week.....especially If we get some rain.How tall you figure your rye is now? Mine was about 8” sunday.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve moved drive wheel down to next to lowest setting. Really nothing I plant needs to be over about an inch deep.
I planted with it on the middle setting this past fall, and my plants seem to get a slow start. I think they were all planted too deep. They came on great the spring, but I am planting much more shallow this year. Also, we put a thick layer of thatch over the top which acts like soil also.
I hope you showed him what grid power can do. ;)SD stopped by today and we did a little land tour at my place. Fun to help him hook up a seeder and to show him my place. We saw a newborn fawn....tying to amble into some cover on some pretty shaky legs......and saw a few turkeys. Clover is coming on strong now.......and as you can see in today's pic below......the deer are putting on some lbs after a tough winter.
Mystery why some of my rye is flourishing and it's very weak in other areas.
View attachment 53092
I moved my drive wheel to the location noted as "standard" in the operators manual. I think I could move it one more location to make the drill still more shallow. I have pretty light soils and dont need to plant more than an inch in depth......and many seeds only need to be about 1/4" deep. With this done.....I think most of the fine tuning can be done with the closing wheels and / or my hydraulic top link.[mention]omicron1792 [/mention] [mention]Foggy47 [/mention] I used my 3p500 for the first time this last weekend. I had the issue where if I leveled out the drill the front drive wheel would no longer touch the ground. But with it trimmed forward I didn’t feel I got the depth I wanted. The manual seemed to state not to adjust the wheel position for hard soil but also that the drill should be level. Seems contradictory unless there is something I am missing. Any thoughts? Sorry I hope I am not thread jacking. This is all very good information I’m so glad I discovered this forum.
Sure did. We had to drill some holes and needed some good lighting and run my well to wash up. I did not fire up my welder....but nearly had to do so. He didn't say much.....but I could tell he was lusting for grid power. Grin.I hope you showed him what grid power can do. ;)
Do you have a hydraulic top link? As foggy said that’s the main way to adjust depth. I think it would be pretty hard to manage without one. If in big huge flat fields maybe. In irregular food plots I adjust it with top link all the time.[mention]omicron1792 [/mention] [mention]Foggy47 [/mention] I used my 3p500 for the first time this last weekend. I had the issue where if I leveled out the drill the front drive wheel would no longer touch the ground. But with it trimmed forward I didn’t feel I got the depth I wanted. The manual seemed to state not to adjust the wheel position for hard soil but also that the drill should be level. Seems contradictory unless there is something I am missing. Any thoughts? Sorry I hope I am not thread jacking. This is all very good information I’m so glad I discovered this forum.
When I am drilling seeds.....I am watching for that seed delivery system to keep turning. On these 3P drills....it's fairly easy to watch that 1" hex shaft go around. But I was thinking that I should paint some black and white stripes on each of those hex flats in order to better keep an eye on things. As OMI says.....that hydraulic top link is super useful to make adjustments on the fly as conditions (elevations) change. Anytime that hex shaft stops turning......it's time to pull the front end a bit lower......not much....just an inch or two. Then....most times.....just back off again after the change in undulation. I think these 3P drills are somewhat sensitive to these changes.....and the hydraulic top link solves allot.Do you have a hydraulic top link? As foggy said that’s the main way to adjust depth. I think it would be pretty hard to manage without one. If in big huge flat fields maybe. In irregular food plots I adjust it with top link all the time.
When I am drilling seeds.....I am watching for that seed delivery system to keep turning. On these 3P drills....it's fairly easy to watch that 1" hex shaft go around. But I was thinking that I should paint some black and white stripes on each of those hex flats in order to better keep an eye on things. As OMI says.....that hydraulic top link is super useful to make adjustments on the fly as conditions (elevations) change. Anytime that hex shaft stops turning......it's time to pull the front end a bit lower......not much....just an inch or two. Then....most times.....just back off again after the change in undulation. I think these 3P drills are somewhat sensitive to these changes.....and the hydraulic top link solves allot.
I bought mine online, Amazon. Has been great and installed myself. EasySpeaking of hydraulic top links, what’s the best spot to purchase from? I still need to add one to my L3560. I have the rear remotes to accommodate one, just haven't bought it yet.
They cost about 200 bucks. After paying 10k for a drill. Just get one.I didn’t get the hydraulics. I felt like I was going overboard in so many other areas that that would be one area to draw the line. I didn’t feel like I had many times the wheel lost contact once I got going but I had set the drill with a slight forward lean.
The first field I was just drilling into fescue pasture that had been sprayed a couple times. I felt like the drill was just scratching the surface and dropping the seed on top. The other couple fields I ended up running a disc and then felt like I had much better results, but obviously the goal is not to use the disc.
I was thinking I might move the top link down to a lower hole and see if that changes the geometry at all. There are 3 settings for its position and it was in the top hole.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yeah I get that but I don't have the rear remotes.They cost about 200 bucks. After paying 10k for a drill. Just get one.
Depending on tractor brand.....that can be fairly inexpensive......or more likely.....hard to swallow. Low cost on a Kubota.....high on a Deere (typically). <-----BTDT......I bought a new tractor and have lots of hydraulic options. I have two sets of rear remotes and a set out front to operate my grapple. I need the two rear remotes for my stump grinder and when operating my flail mower. Lots of hydraulic options do cost a bit.....but dont limit you on operating implements.Yeah I get that but I don't have the rear remotes.