Fertilizer reccomendations

[Mattyq2402]

My trees range from 1 season old to 5 years. Varieties of apple, crab, and pear. Is there a blanket formula for applying fert to established trees? Morse provided me with a reccomend of 19 19 19 years ago, seems strong??? I haven't fertilized in a year or so and looking to apply this spring..

Do the fertilizer stakes work? Any specific date for timing for application?

 

[Mattyq2402]

Also do the variety of trees get a diff fert or is it universal to all types ie pear, apple, persimmon

 

[Prof.Kent]

Use 12-12-12 fertilizer, triple 19 can burn roots. Use 1cup 12-12-12 per 1 inch diameter of tree, two or three times per year starting early in the year at green tip. Stop fertilizing before July. If new growth exceeds 24”, cut back on fertilizer next year.

Also do the variety of trees get a diff fert or is it universal to all types ie pear, apple, persimmon

universal. Although peaches usually need extra nitrogen (urea)

 

[bigboreblr]

Too much water and/or too much fertilizer can make excessive water whips.

Some say permissions shouldnt be fertilized. This may be mature permisson advise though.

IF you add mulch to your trees, its a good time to put fertilizer on the ground, then cover it with mulch.

You got a decent amount of trees, soil test might be a good idea.

 

[H20fwler]

I try and get triple 10 or as close to it as I can.
I only use one cup around drip line on my fruit trees whether they are two year old or ten year old. I normally only do it around bud break then leave them alone.
IMO better to under fertilize than over fertilize. I don’t want any really fast growth, late growth, burnt roots or overspend on fert.

My orchards are mostly for wildlife, I might take a different approach if they were commercial.

I’m new to persimmons so haven’t done much fertilizing with them except for triple 10 in the area I wanted to plant them the year before I got them, suggested by Ryan from BlueHill.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

10-10-10 .......... same as H20 above. I don't fertilize past June 10th or so. That way I don't get a late flush of new growth that doesn't have time to "harden-off" before frosts hit in the fall.

 

[Tree Spud]

10-10-10 works well .... I'v had 19-19-19 burn roots and kill trees, was all I could get at the time but learned a lesson.

 

[Teeder]

I rarely fertilize fruit trees, but if I do, I use 5-10-10. Not a big fan of too much N., and a friend of mine that went to Penn state and worked at Ernst Seed recommended that.

 

[PoorSand]

I think it depends on your soil. I had a soil test performed. I apply 5/8ths cup of 44-0-0 polymer coated urea and 1 tablespoon of potash per tree under 1" in diameter each year in spring when the frost goes out. If my soil weren't naturally high in phosphorous and didn't have low buffering capacity for nitrogen and potassium, I think the recommendation would have been different.

 

[TonySoprano]

I try and get triple 10 or as close to it as I can.
I only use one cup around drip line on my fruit trees whether they are two year old or ten year old. I normally only do it around bud break then leave them alone.
IMO better to under fertilize than over fertilize. I don’t want any really fast growth, late growth, burnt roots or overspend on fert.

My orchards are mostly for wildlife, I might take a different approach if they were commercial.

I’m new to persimmons so haven’t done much fertilizing with them except for triple 10 in the area I wanted to plant them the year before I got them, suggested by Ryan from BlueHill.

Just to be clear is that one cup the standard kitchen size "one cup" measuring cup. I have been just throwing two handfulls of 10 10 10 , but I'll start doing one cup if that's how you do it.

 

[RGrizzzz]

I rarely fertilize fruit trees, but if I do, I use 5-10-10. Not a big fan of too much N., and a friend of mine that went to Penn state and worked at Ernst Seed recommended that.

PSU publishes fertility recommendations for fruit trees.

Soil Test Recommendations for Tree Fruits (Agricultural Analytical Services Lab)

agsci.psu.edu

Regarding nitrogen. (In the Maintain Apples doc)
Nitrogen Recommendation: Nitrogen should be applied based on leaf analysis and shoot growth. In absence of a current season's leaf analysis, shoot growth on bearing trees should be 12 to 18 inches.

Another general guideline is to apply 0.02 lb of actual N per tree per year of tree age. If following this guideline, do not exceed 0.30 lb of actual N per tree per year. If terminal growth was excessive, fruit color was inadequate or major renovative pruning was performed, a reduction in the rate of N application is in order.

 

[H20fwler]

Just to be clear is that one cup the standard kitchen size "one cup" measuring cup. I have been just throwing two handfulls of 10 10 10 , but I'll start doing one cup if that's how you do it.

It’s kind of a guesstimate, I use a solo cup 3/4 full.

 

[TonySoprano]

It’s kind of a guesstimate, I use a solo cup 3/4 full.

Thanks

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Wanted to bump this thread and get suggestions..here in North Central PA we are supposed to get a huge warmup for several days over the weekend and into next week…(which of course will then be followed by normal, gross March weather). Do you all think it would he worth it to get my 10-10-10 spread around my trees or should I wait a little longer..I have the fertilizer in hand and am getting itchy to get things done…

 

[Rubee]

I’m no expert but I think it would be a great time to fertilize your trees. I think it takes a long time for the rains to dissolve and get the fertilizer down to the roots. I toss a couple of cups of triple 10 or 12 around the drip line and still see some on the surface months later.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

I’m no expert but I think it would be a great time to fertilize your trees. I think it takes a long time for the rains to dissolve and get the fertilizer down to the roots. I toss a couple of cups of triple 10 or 12 around the drip line and still see some on the surface months later.

cool! I have a bunch of trees so it might take me a while...just didn't know if it would help with the warm temps coming that might start waking up a bit, especially on my early-opening pears ...i plan to do a second round later in April as well

 

[Bowsnbucks]

I spread it around the drip lines of the trees so the roots will want to keep reaching for it - expanding the root/anchorage area. I've read of other guys saying not to get it too close to the trunk .... and I don't know the reason. I've had good success doing the drip line spreading with no "burning" of the trees - FWIW.

 

[bigboreblr]

Should be good. When trees are producing they typically need a 5-8-12 ratio for maintenance. I use a bag of triple 12, a bag of 6-24-24, and a bag of potash 0-0-56.

Warm up ok, ground frozen and alot of rain in forecast I'd wait.

Professional al orchards usually fertilize twice like march and June. They spread straight potassium in fall because it's slow to get in the soil.

I'd lime now too.

 

[Derek Reese 29]

Should be good. When trees are producing they typically need a 5-8-12 ratio for maintenance. I use a bag of triple 12, a bag of 6-24-24, and a bag of potash 0-0-56.

Warm up ok, ground frozen and alot of rain in forecast I'd wait.

Professional al orchards usually fertilize twice like march and June. They spread straight potassium in fall because it's slow to get in the soil.

I'd lime now too.

tried to get 12-12-12 but all they had was 10-10-10 and 15-15-15...decided to play it safe and go with 10-10-10....i plan to spread twice but maybe more like soonish and then May

 

[RGrizzzz]

tried to get 12-12-12 but all they had was 10-10-10 and 15-15-15...decided to play it safe and go with 10-10-10....i plan to spread twice but maybe more like soonish and then May

Mix em and you have 12.5-12.5-12.5