Box blind size; one adult up to two kids?

[pointer]

The title really says most of what I'm curious about. I'd like to build a box blind for me and the boys (9yo and 6yo currently) to use. It would not be uncommon for all 3 of us to be in the blind together. At first I was thinking of making it 4X8 for convenience sake. After a bit more thought and reading, I'm wondering if that would not be deep enough. What size would you suggest?

FWIW, currently the 3 of us hunt out of a pop up ground blind. Space really isn't too bad and would be better with a change of chairs.

 

[sticknstring]

I plan on doing the same thing w/ my 2 oldest kids next fall. I think there would be less shuffling around in a square, say 6x6, but 32 sqft is plenty big. I went w/ a 6' round blind & it's super roomy for 3 at only 28 sqft.

 

[Semisane]

4x8 is plenty big enough for three adults. Try lining up three of your kitchen chairs on an eight foot line. Each chair has 32" of space.

 

[yoderjac]

The title really says most of what I'm curious about. I'd like to build a box blind for me and the boys (9yo and 6yo currently) to use. It would not be uncommon for all 3 of us to be in the blind together. At first I was thinking of making it 4X8 for convenience sake. After a bit more thought and reading, I'm wondering if that would not be deep enough. What size would you suggest?

FWIW, currently the 3 of us hunt out of a pop up ground blind. Space really isn't too bad and would be better with a change of chairs.

I've built some box blinds. I started building them to take kids but as I'm getting older, I'm finding that climbing trees will end, so I'm building them for me as well. I found a 6x8 is very comfortable for taking one youngster. There is enough room that you can move around and provide instruction. I find it better to take one kid at a time. It helps kids from associating competition with hunting and allows for better one on one instruction. I also think it is safer, especially with younger kids. There is enough room in a 6x8 for 3 folks to physically fit and hunt but not for adequate instruction of kids. If they were teenagers that had been hunting with you since kids, 6x8 would work for 3 but by then, they want a little independence and that can be good for them depending on the kid.

I realized that my cost for building a 6x8 was not much less than an 8x8, so I tried building one 8x8. That one, which is placed on a corner may work for two kids. There is enough room and each kid could have a window overlooking a different area (corner). In a situation like that, when game appear on one side of the blind, the other kid becomes an observer and you can provide one on one instruction to the shooter. If game appears in the other window the kids swap shooter/observer roles and again you can provide one on one instruction. One thing this blind is great for is archery. Because it is 8' deep, you can vary your distance from the window as needed and have plenty of room to draw a bow. Blinds with less depth make it easy to bend your back and ruin your shooting form.

My latest box blind is 6x6. I found a way to significantly reduce the cost. It would be very tight for taking a kid but it could be done. I really wanted to get it down to 4' in one direction, but I don't find this practical even for a one man box blind. I really need a minimum of 6x6. Keep in mind, I'm about 6' and a smaller guy may have different requirements.

My latest blind build is documented here: http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/foodplot-stand-transfered-from-the-old-forum.5529/

The larger blinds use the same construction methods and materials with larger lumber.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[pointer]

Thanks for the responses. Other than Jack, anyone else think more than 4' deep is needed?

 

[Satchmo]

I built my last one 5x6. Love it for where it's at. The 4x4s are a little tight. The 5x6 is great for 2 people but I'd go 5x8 for 3 of you. We've had 6x6 in the past, but deer can sneak in under you pretty easy if your alone in heavier cover. I think 5x5 is a perfect size for one guy, but not for bow. 4ft is definitely too shallow for any of them.

 

[Camp 2 Dukes]

I did a 4 x 8 it's ok for 2. Kind of tough to switch spots. 3 would be tight. I did a 5 x 7 trailer we've had 4 in there and still confortable. It's amazing how the little bit of extra space makes a huge difference. The last one I did was a 6x6 it is plenty roomy have only had 2 in it but I'm sure 3 wouuld be fine.

 

[yoderjac]

Yes, that is something I wanted to be clear about. I'm an HE instructor and I've taken a variety of kids out with a variety of weapons and game. When you are working with your own kids, things may be different. One thing I like about deeper box blinds is that kids can sit back further from the windows in the shadows and get a way with less movement. If you look at the design of the blind in the thread I linked, you'll see the window hinge out to provide even more shade and there are moveable curtains inside the blind. These blinds are designed to handle a variety of kids with a variety of weapons. The windows can open at different levels to accommodate shotguns, rifles, bows, crossbows, etc. Many of the kids I've dealt with are very inexperienced and have a hard time sitting still waiting for game. It is one thing when hunting with a rifle and deer are often 100 yards or more away, and trying to get deer close enough for a 20 yard bow or cross-bow shot by a kid. Suppose one is turkey hunting with a kid. In a 4' blind, it is difficult to keep the firearm inside the blind and then maneuver it into position without barrel movement outside the blind.

One more consideration with a permanent blind or stand. It gets a lot more scrutiny from deer. I was archery hunting with a climber on a military base once I was in a tree that was about 40 yards from a permanent stand. I had a small family group of deer feeding by eating acorns. They were about 35 yards from me and about 60 from the permanent stand. Suddenly the stopped. They stood like statues staring at the permanent stand paying no attention to me. Other than an occasional ear twitch or tail flick, they didn't move for 15 minutes. The just stared at that permanent stand. They then moved about 10 yards and stopped and eyeballed it from another angle for 5 minutes. They were finally convinced no one was in it and resumed feeding on acorns eventually feeding right under the permanent stand. The point is that it take very little movement for deer to avoid a permanent stand. The further back in the shadows a kid sits and the more design attention paid to concealment the better.

Some kids are just natural hunters and can sit still for long periods, but I find they are few and far between. You know your kids best and the kind of hunting you will do out of the blind. Mine were built to meet my objectives and they may not be the same for you.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[willy]

I have sat in a 4'x5' blind and hated it. I highly recommend going with at least 60 inches wide each way. I have made 10 box blinds. The first was 48x60. It sucked, I redid the the base and it now has a maverick 5 shooter on it and the problem is cured. The other 9 box blinds I have built range in size from 60x60 to 78x84 inside dimensions. The biggest is my wheelchair blind. I have hunted 3 adults out of the 60x60. While a bit tight it was fine. 66x66 and up is best if you can swing it.

 

[pointer]

Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm strongly leaning to deeper now. Probably 8X6. It'll only be 6' off the ground, so getting it built shouldn't be too tricky.

 

[yoderjac]

Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm strongly leaning to deeper now. Probably 8X6. It'll only be 6' off the ground, so getting it built shouldn't be too tricky.

I don't know if cost is a factor for you or not, but I did find that access can be a cost driver. The floors on mine are anywhere from 6' to 16'. The ones at 6' are much less expensive to build stairs or ramps for access.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Bluecollaroutdoors]

Funny I was just thinking this same thing as I am drawing plans for another blind. I believe the one I have a thread on from 2 years ago is 4x6. Why cut 2 feet off of both sides of a 4x8 sheet I am not sure.
That hunts fine with 2 people but one of us just sits on a bucket in the corner of the blind. We had no problem maneuvering this year when I had to get out of the way for my partner to shoot.

I was thinking 5 x 5 for my next one with the intentions of it being more of a 1 person gun or a little crossbow setup. For one person I just want to be able to spin in my chair without hitting anything with my feet and also be able to reach the siderail/gun rest without crazy over extending. We hunt a box in Door County that is so big....too big infact that from the chair you can barely rest your gun on the ledges to shoot. Yes we could fit 4 guys with recliners in it but for one guy you would want it much smaller. It also has really tough blind spots in the corners.

 

[yoderjac]

I use office chairs on wheels and carpet the blind with indoor/outdoor carpet. This quiets dropped items and allows the chairs to move quietly to accommodate different sized hunters and weapons.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Jeff23]

Ours is 6x6, and it is perfect for me and 2 kids. I can take all three kids with me, but it is definitely tight with that number. If we were to do it again, we would still make it 6x6.

 

[Diesel5610]

We have built several over the years. 4x4 (I did not build this one and was against it from the start, like siting in an outhouse, lol) 4x6,5x6, and a 6x6. I get cramped in the 4x6 if I am sitting for any length of time. We have several this size and they are very cramped with 2 people IMO. I will never build another that isn't at least 5x6. This is the perfect size for up to 2 adults and is very doable with 2 kids the size you are talking about. As kids get older they will more than likely not both be in there at the same time with you.
The 6x6 we have is like a condo. Easily do 3 adults and 2 kids would be easy. If it would be appropriate for the location I would do this size based on what you are describing. Shooting houses are great for hunting with kids, I built our first when my daughter was 10 and my son 7. I have spent countless quality hours with both my kids over the years in our houses. Great project for the family.

 

[buckdeer1]

Heres an idea for a base http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/landmark-10-hunting-tower?a=1940659

 

[Jeff23]

I should add: if you go 6x6, you should have no waste if you use plywood for the walls. You use a sheet and a half on each wall for a total of 6 sheets. I guess to be more accurate: you only have waste by cutting to length.

 

[Mortenson]

I built one last winter 6x6. It has 2 large chairs in it now, but I can't picture a 3rd chair fitting alongside those 2. Mine is on the ground, so it's critical that it stays blacked out, with a rear window always closed. So in my mind the chairs need to be towards the back, not with one floating around the front or middle.

 

[SIL hunter]

I agree with Jeff, I have made 6 box blinds on our property, 5 are 6X6 and work great for 2 people and 1 person bowhunting, you shouldn't have much waste at all. I would recommend making your side walls at least 6"6" tall so you can stand and stretch without hitting your head, also at 6' wide most roof metal is 39" wide with 36 of actual coverage, but if you center it you can cover the whole width and bend the sides down with screws. I also just add an extra 2x4 across the front wall to make the front an 1 1/2" taller than the back to get water to run off. I go to the local lumber yard and see what kind of plexiglass scraps they have and frame my windows accordingly(save's lot of$$), put the metal mirror clips on the bottom of the window framing and use a wood twist knob on top to hold them in, works great and is cheap.

 

[yoderjac]

I agree with Jeff, I have made 6 box blinds on our property, 5 are 6X6 and work great for 2 people and 1 person bowhunting, you shouldn't have much waste at all. I would recommend making your side walls at least 6"6" tall so you can stand and stretch without hitting your head, also at 6' wide most roof metal is 39" wide with 36 of actual coverage, but if you center it you can cover the whole width and bend the sides down with screws. I also just add an extra 2x4 across the front wall to make the front an 1 1/2" taller than the back to get water to run off. I go to the local lumber yard and see what kind of plexiglass scraps they have and frame my windows accordingly(save's lot of$$), put the metal mirror clips on the bottom of the window framing and use a wood twist knob on top to hold them in, works great and is cheap.

I don't like using metal as the roof. I find it way too noisy in the rain. It is a bit more expensive, but I've been using Ondura sheets. They have worked well for me.

Thanks,

Jack