An affordable barn made with two containers
- Thread starter Foggy47
- Start date
Wind Gypsy
5 year old buck +
High cube dual door?
Edit: pulled up the quote. "wind, water tight used - $4k, New - $7k, Delivery - $615."
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
^. Those are the number's I remember too. In fact I think you could do better with a pair of 'em. So, If you were to use two containers at $8000 and about $2500 for roof materials and a door.....maybe you could get 'er done for about $10,500. I would not bite.....but if on a tight budget....it's "plausible" for some folks. Maybe some guys already have one container? 'Merica!
b116757
5 year old buck +
I’ve got an aluminum high cube at the house I super insulated with spray in closed cell foam including under the floor. I installed a baffle system and circulation fans with a 4000 bdft dehumidifier kiln unit installed in one end. I use two 16’ aluminum carts to stack the lumber on if I had it to do over again I’d build a purpose built kiln that doesn’t require a cart system.
What is the lifespan of the top of a shipping container that is open to the elements and could catch water? Seems like it would be less than 10 years. Shouldn’t they be covered too? They aren’t made with any slope are they?
Last edited:
omicron1792
5 year old buck +
I have a shipping container under a 45x25 pole barn. Gives me secure locked storage and stays cool under roof of barn. Great setup.
bigboreblr
5 year old buck +
IF your building one with the 2 contaiiners roof exposed, you have to tilt them so water doesnt come into the the covered area.
I agree, a bit expensive for what they are. One tax trick is to stuff them under confier trees. Most property tax departments use GIS software to detect changes from the last ariel image.
The 10x10 rule is interesting where I work. There are numerous hunting clubs by my work site. 2 story tall ones, double or triple ones with porches between them. High porches used as garages to tuck your ATV and food plot implements under. MY power plant allows bow hunting and fishing on the resevoirs. Brnging the kayak and minnow to work tomorrow.
I agree, a bit expensive for what they are. One tax trick is to stuff them under confier trees. Most property tax departments use GIS software to detect changes from the last ariel image.
The 10x10 rule is interesting where I work. There are numerous hunting clubs by my work site. 2 story tall ones, double or triple ones with porches between them. High porches used as garages to tuck your ATV and food plot implements under. MY power plant allows bow hunting and fishing on the resevoirs. Brnging the kayak and minnow to work tomorrow.
birdog
5 year old buck +
I paid $1650 for a 20ft container and $2150 for a 40ft about 7 years ago. I am not aware of anyone selling containers for that price now. With that said I do not believe you can use two containers now to build that same building today for less than you would pay to stick frame it. Plus you would have none of the issues that steel containers bring to a building. It looks very cool but I think you would be better off stick building.
I love my containers as they are very secure and do exactly what I needed. I would pay whatever the price is now if I had too just so I could secure my gear. I just wouldn't use them for anything else but a big metal shed.
birdog
5 year old buck +
I should also add that it is imperative to cover them to regulate the summer heat. I know some people just add turbine vents which works fine however I prefer not to poke holes in my containers to keep them rodent proof. If I set two outside as the OP's neighbor has done I would have trussed across them both with about an 8ft overhang on the eaves and 12-16inch overhang on the gable ends. At the very least truss across them both. I slid my containers inside a bump out from my main building that was used for horse stalls.
Last edited:
Tree Spud
5 year old buck +
Condensation ... we ship equipment oversees in containers that go on ships. Equipment is wrapped tight with poly and a lot of desiccant inside.
You think you could enclose the same square footage with a stick-built building and have similar level of security for the price of a container? Not taking exception, genuinely curious. I currently have neither.
Last edited:
birdog
5 year old buck +
I think once you start cutting doors and windows into the container or build stick walls between them with doors and windows you have compromised the inherent security of a container. Keep the container as is and you will have a container that is more secure than a stick frame building. Containers are not Fort Knox as anyone with a cordless grinder can get in given enough time, however I agree they are more secure than a stick frame building. As for cost per square footage even if the container was more I would go with the container every time. If you are looking for a relatively secure storage building then shipping containers are the way to go. I don't believe there is anything better.
My original response may have been confusing. I was comparing the cost of the container building at the beginning of the OP's thread compared to building the exact same thing with wood. My preference would be to make that building out of wood and avoid the pitfalls associated with using a shipping container. That building is no longer equal to the security of an unmodified container. I think I could make that building out of wood cheaper than the cost of the two containers. Just my opinion so take it for what it's worth.
Does any of that make sense?
My original response may have been confusing. I was comparing the cost of the container building at the beginning of the OP's thread compared to building the exact same thing with wood. My preference would be to make that building out of wood and avoid the pitfalls associated with using a shipping container. That building is no longer equal to the security of an unmodified container. I think I could make that building out of wood cheaper than the cost of the two containers. Just my opinion so take it for what it's worth.
Does any of that make sense?
Yep. I follow. Makes plenty of sense.
birdog
5 year old buck +
I was also talking about this one regarding the loss of security once you start cutting holes.
Wind Gypsy
5 year old buck +
For you more resourceful fellas.. Say you had estimated 2' drop in elevation over the course of where you wanted to put a 40' container
1. How would you go about leveling support points for said container with just basic tools that might be in the household? I've thought about just using lathe/string line/string line level but I feel like there would likely be too much sag in the string line? Also heard that a lot of the cheaper lazer levels are basically worthless outdoors but if there is one that would be suitable for not crazy $ i could see buying it.
2. What would you use for foundation/support underneath it? Assuming i'm going to get it elevated and not build a gravel pad for it.
@birdog - I hadn't considered covering it although there is pretty good mature deciduous tree coverage over it. That sounds like another headache!
1. How would you go about leveling support points for said container with just basic tools that might be in the household? I've thought about just using lathe/string line/string line level but I feel like there would likely be too much sag in the string line? Also heard that a lot of the cheaper lazer levels are basically worthless outdoors but if there is one that would be suitable for not crazy $ i could see buying it.
2. What would you use for foundation/support underneath it? Assuming i'm going to get it elevated and not build a gravel pad for it.
@birdog - I hadn't considered covering it although there is pretty good mature deciduous tree coverage over it. That sounds like another headache!
