Adam's Apple Blog

[CrazyEd]

With all the different apple varieties out there, i'm always looking for good resources about different apples. Usually i'm looking for info from the grower side of things, like if a tree is late dropping, or disease resistant, how the storage qualities are etc. Sometimes though it's helpful to have something more from the consumer side. Of course the consumer side is very subjective but I do enjoy this particular blog and I think the author does a great job. He just did a nice post about the storage capabilities of Goldrush.

http://adamapples.blogspot.com/2014/04/gold-rush-apples-goldrush-keeper.html

 

[Freeborn]

Thanks Ed. Can you provide a list of common apple trees and their approximate drop times? This would be a handy resource to have for those growing apple trees for hunting.

 

[CrazyEd]

Thanks Ed. Can you provide a list of common apple trees and their approximate drop times? This would be a handy resource to have for those growing apple trees for hunting.

I'm not aware of any accurate listing by drop time. There are a lot of things that can influence drop time from general climate to growing season conditions to region. To put this into some perspective, let's look at the last 2 years. In my area, in 2012 there was basically no or an absolutely minimal crop. Everything warmed up in early march when we were having 70 degree days, then a cold snap or two froze out everything and a majority if not all of the apple crop was lost. Add in a severe drought throughout the growing season. Then in 2013, you had trees with a lot of energy since they didn't crop in 2012, bundle that with ideal conditions, plenty of moisture. Some trees that normally don't hold as long were holding well into march and even april. That's not normal, but it happens.

I think the best thing to use as a general guide is probably Adams County Nursery's maturity chart. I think generally speaking, apples that mature later drop later.

http://www.acnursery.com/maturity_chart.pdf

Otherwise find someone else growing that particular apple in your area and try to get a general idea of what the grower typically sees. I know in my area people have reported that Northwest Greening often drops well into march. That can be helpful if you want to provide a winter food source when everything else is under deep snow.

 

[Freeborn]

Nice Resource Ed, Thanks!

 

[dipper]

Ed you are making my head spin. You are no doubt the apple guy. thanks

 

[CrazyEd]

Ed you are making my head spin. You are no doubt the apple guy. thanks

thanks dipper. I'm still pretty green at this but I feel I've researched a lot and learned a lot from planting and studying my own trees. my oldest tree will be 5 this year, I would like to think I know more now than when I started.

jury is still out on if I can actually grow fruit in my sand pile. I am hoping I see my first fruit this year.

 

[sandbur]

Jerry-My latest dropping regular apple is NW Greening. I had some scion at the class. did you get some grafted?

Huls usually has some big trees for sale, also.

 

[Freeborn]

Art, Yep I got two of the NW greening. I've got a couple spots where I want to plant 3-4 trees that mature at different times throughout the hunting season (Aug.-Dec.)

 

[sandbur]

This includes some of the crab apples.

http://www.grandpasorchard.com/_ccLib/attachments/pages/GOWeb-MaturityChart-Apple+(2013).pdf

 

[bigmike]

Ed, the grafts that i started three years ago are loaded with blooms. The trees are 5-7' tall. Should i pull all the blooms or can i safely leave one or two apples per branch after they're pollenated?

 

[aerospacefarmer]

Ed, the grafts that i started three years ago are loaded with blooms. The trees are 5-7' tall. Should i pull all the blooms or can i safely leave one or two apples per branch after they're pollenated?

Should be fine to let the tree bear some fruit. I have left apples on my trees year one after planting which would put them about 3 years old. Are your trees planted in their final resting place?

 

[bigmike]

Yes they are. I've loaded my yard with fruit trees so when i'm old and too lazy to make the trip to the hunt property i can hunt from my deck if i want to harvest one!

 

[aerospacefarmer]

They should be good to go. Just make sure tree is t overloaded as it could break branches You can thin the fruit by picking off buds or apples once they take set. Not sure the best time but someone else can weigh in on that

 

[sandbur]

Art, Yep I got two of the NW greening. I've got a couple spots where I want to plant 3-4 trees that mature at different times throughout the hunting season (Aug.-Dec.)

Jerry-based on what I have that are producing, and in the presence of lots of red cedars.

State Fair would also give you an August apple.

I would plant a Red Baron, grafted Dolgo (Labor day drop but a short drop time), Chestnut Crab (drops about three weeks during Sept.), Haralred ( Haralson) for October , and NWGreening. A chestnut crab up in zone 1 often attracts deer starting about Aug. 25.

The rootstock crab carries over into Nov. It is probably Colombia crab. another seedling crab and Morse's bunches red carry into the winter.

I might add a whitney to the above, but have not done so. I know of one whitney that occasionally starts to ripen in late July, more often Aug, and it is in the Litchfield Mn. area.

I have numerous seedlings in the ground, about 8 of those are producing and some of the crabs are still holding a few 3/4 inch apples..

Firecracker, wickson, kerr, frostbite, and others are in the ground but not producing at this time.

Snowsweet has just produced a few apples. Honeycrisp is a big pain for me.

Yes they are. I've loaded my yard with fruit trees so when i'm old and too lazy to make the trip to the hunt property i can hunt from my deck if i want to harvest one!

I have apple trees close to my house for the same purpose. If we ever have any deer.