Pole Shed

Bigshooter19

5 year old buck +
I knew I seen this on here once but asking again building a pole shed. Has anyone ever put up a pole shed kit from like menards or lowes? Are they worth while putting up or should i go some with something eles? Post frame or steel frame. I'm thinking 40x40 concrete floor. Mostly gna be used for storage.
 
My cousin put up a menards kit. It was junk and he said he would never do it again. I'm pretty sure it was one of the cheapest kits and that was a lot of the reason. I think you would have to do a lot of upgrades to get a quality barn. I plan on putting one up in a couple years. I'm going to go with the middle of the three bids I received. My friend had them put one up and it turned out great.
 
I knew I seen this on here once but asking again building a pole shed. Has anyone ever put up a pole shed kit from like menards or lowes? Are they worth while putting up or should i go some with something eles? Post frame or steel frame. I'm thinking 40x40 concrete floor. Mostly gna be used for storage.

My first question would be is ... "what are the last 3 structural buildings you have approved designs, reviewed contract and local code, managed subs, dealt with local inspectors, and purchased supplies for?"

40 x 40 concrete pad?

More power to you if you possess all these trade skills ... if not, you'll pay twice for what you could've hired skilled help for ...
 
My first question would be is ... "what are the last 3 structural buildings you have approved designs, reviewed contract and local code, managed subs, dealt with local inspectors, and purchased supplies for?"

40 x 40 concrete pad?

More power to you if you possess all these trade skills ... if not, you'll pay twice for what you could've hired skilled help for ...
Your over thinking the question. I just wanted to know what brand of building people have put up. If there any great difference between metal structure over post frame. I said there will be concrete before or after. Never pour a slab before post frame building.

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We had our barn put up by National Barn. Nothing special but it works for us. 6x6 posts and trusses. Metal sides and roof except for some skylight panels in the roof. Two large sliding doors at each end so you can drive through. After it was built we had someone come in and pour a cement floor. I really like a cement floor. I often work alone. I built dollies for our implements so I can wheel them around the barn for storage and maneuver them easily for hookup.

One of our other owners got bid from a few building companies and selected National but I wasn't involved in that so I don't have details on the comparison.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I built dollies for our implements so I can wheel them around the barn for storage and maneuver them easily for hookup.

Not to hijack the thread, but can you tell me more about the dollies Jack? I've been considering the same thing recently.

-John
 
John,

Sure. I just bought inexpensive wooden furniture dollies from harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies.html I then use 2x4s and screw them into the top of the dollies to form a frame. Here is one for a 4' bushhog:

49eea4b4-6112-428f-94d9-3fa303a44ba8.jpg


Here is one oriented in the opposite direction for a 6' tiller. The tiller is on the tractor in front of it. I just raise the implement with the hitch, slide the dolly under it, lower it and disconnect. I can then push the implement around:

fc984990-ca0d-4cbf-8794-14c1d37c970e.jpg


If you look closely in the top left corner of the picture above, you can see part of my Kasco 4' no-till Versadrill sitting on a dolly. For that one, there are two dollies tied together with 2x4s that the openers and cutting wheels sit on. There is another single dolly in the middle of the back tied to the front two. The cultipacker for the unit sits on it.

There is nothing fancy about these. Cheap and easy and make pushing equipment around the barn very easy.

Thanks,

Jack
 
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My first question would be is ... "what are the last 3 structural buildings you have approved designs, reviewed contract and local code, managed subs, dealt with local inspectors, and purchased supplies for?"

40 x 40 concrete pad?

More power to you if you possess all these trade skills ... if not, you'll pay twice for what you could've hired skilled help for ...


I thought living in the country you could get away with building stuff without inspectors. Wisconsin land ownership seems painful.
 
Well there still codes you have to follow. Have to stay so far off property lines and so far from dwellings and can't build in flood plain. Where I live in Jefferson county they want you to get a permit for everything. Even changing windows out or replacing a door. Only thing you can really do is paint they don't care about that.

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I didn't know you were from WI. Walters was the company that built my friends barn. I was really impressed with the quality. That's who I'am going with too.
 
I didn't know you were from WI. Walters was the company that built my friends barn. I was really impressed with the quality. That's who I'am going with too.
By Madison

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If you're in snow country, don't build a barn with sliders. Never. Use overhead doors. Not fun trying to get your barn door open when it's drifted shut or frozen.
 
Your over thinking the question. I just wanted to know what brand of building people have put up. If there any great difference between metal structure over post frame. I said there will be concrete before or after. Never pour a slab before post frame building.

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Why don't you post your location?

Different climates, different considerations ...
 
Why don't you post your location?

Different climates, different considerations ...

By Madison doesn't count? Jefferson county WI
 
By Madison doesn't count? Jefferson county WI

Then you are in the north where frost in the ground is an issue. If you are going to use any part of the building for living/sleeping area, you may want to consider pink foam board insulation & plastic sheathing below one area to keep moisture from coming up. Would also allow that area to warm up faster if you are heating is. A wood burning stove could keep that size shed warm.
 
I highly recommend following above on the moisture concern. I have a pole building next to my house that was built by previous owner and does have a concrete slab but the moisture is a big problem. Table saw, drill press, anything cast iron rust is a big PITA. Way worse then any house garage I've kept them in the past and maybe they could have built up with a lot more gravel under slab for better drainage or something. If you have sandy site not as critical but I'm on clay and this is #1 thing I do not like about my setup.
 
John,

Sure. I just bought inexpensive wooden furniture dollies from harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies.html I then use 2x4s and screw them into the top of the dollies to form a frame. Here is one for a 4' bushhog:

Jack

Thanks Jack.... Seems it is as simple as I hoped. I sometimes tend to over think things. HF it is!

I didn't know you were from WI. Walters was the company that built my friends barn. I was really impressed with the quality. That's who I'am going with too.

WI is pretty bad for building. When I went to get a permit to build my shed last summer, it turned out to be quite the ordeal. I had to prove it was set-back from a 40 acre line, and all but promise in blood that I didn't intend to live in it. Don't even mention the word toilet or water!

-John
 
Thanks Jack.... Seems it is as simple as I hoped. I sometimes tend to over think things. HF it is!



WI is pretty bad for building. When I went to get a permit to build my shed last summer, it turned out to be quite the ordeal. I had to prove it was set-back from a 40 acre line, and all but promise in blood that I didn't intend to live in it. Don't even mention the word toilet or water!

-John

If you have improved, septic, well, etc, never let the inspector in. It is a workshop ... well & septic is for washing equipment ... you "live 2-3 hours away, can the inspector meet you there on a Sat or Sun?"... they won't.

Never discuss a "living area" takes you to a whole different code ... keep outside of building plain, curtains/shades on windows ... stay below the radar.
 
If you have improved, septic, well, etc, never let the inspector in. It is a workshop ... well & septic is for washing equipment ... you "live 2-3 hours away, can the inspector meet you there on a Sat or Sun?"... they won't.

Never discuss a "living area" takes you to a whole different code ... keep outside of building plain, curtains/shades on windows ... stay below the radar.
Thanks good to know. I plan on hooking up to my septic/well from the old farm house that used to be there.
 
The biggest change in building has been the way they construct the corner posts.used to they used solid 6x6 or so.Now they are splicing together 2x8 setting in ground and out a couple feet then building the rest of post by splicing them together.If I was building one I would look at perma post.There was a guy awhile back using them
 
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