2015 Scion or other seed Swap Thread

wooduck and maya -last year I disinfected my pruning tools with about 10% alcohol between trees.

Should I be using a bleach solution instead?

The alcohol solution does not freeze or bleach any clothing it might get onto....
 
I read 2 university reports lately, I will see if I can find them again. One claims that disenfecting during winter pruning in cold northerly climates is a waste of time. The other stated that anything less than a 5 min soak for pruning tools in 70% rubbing alchohol, 25% bleach to water, or 30% Lysol to water is ineffective for commonly available household chemicals.
 
Fireblight is bacterial, not viral.

Why would scionwood be any worse than buying grafted trees? Each are possible routes for new pathogens or different stains to your site.
 
Is there a way to know if the sticks are infected? I read something about rinsing them in some solution to prevent any spread of disease. This is the first I have heard of this but something g surely to think about. How about sticks from the Geneva Repository ? The federal government sends these sticks out without a warning or disclaimer.

No guarantees from Geneva. Some accessions have notes that they suspect it has a virus and ruled out some types With some testing. There are ways to eliminate viruses by heat treating. One way is to graft onto a potted tree that can be stored above a certain temperature. that produces clean scionwood. I would think that works for bacterial pathogens too. Not sure about fungal pathogens. I am unsure if heat treatments of scionwood is effective.
 
Ok this was a presentation to established orchard owners. I see the huge risk for these guys. They are already established. I'm basically a no body, I would have to pay thousands of dollars to get what I will have from swapping scions alone. I've really got nothing to loose, as orchards have everything to loose. If I had an orchard valued at a million dollars I wouldn't be bringing anything in, unless it was 100% sterile. Since I basically have nothing for trees, there is little risk, and only gain.
 
My mistake fireblight is bacterial not viral , I knew that just didn't type correct and fire blight is in all orchards regardless of size or scale . More controlling is variety and conditions in the orchard
antibiotics only work on bacteria, not on viruses. The original post did not seem correct.
 
Does anyone need tags for yours trees?
 
Aluminum painted one side and some both all different colors you could scribe it easily and would last a long time
 
Maya good post at least you got everyone thinking which is a good thing. Now everyone can make up their own minds. I sent a not to one of the apple professors from Penn Stat Extension who just have a firebblight talk in wet seasons to see what she thinks of this issue. I will respond with her thoughts once I get them. We had a good meeting on stink bug, Apple borers, Apple nutrition and on secondary pests that are emerging as we are killing all the beneficials with the new single purpose insecticide of the week. San Jose Scale and a few other nasty pest are making a comeback due to the kissing of beneficials including most borers like dogwood borer
 
Aero - What did the PSU prof have to say about adding parasitic / predatory insects to the orchard to kill the bad ones? ( if she mentioned that at all )
 
She didn't talk about adding them but about not killing them with pesticides. I guess you can add and that would be beneficial but apparently they occur naturally as long as we don't screw rhem up with pesticides. She just mentioned that you should be careful and knowledgeable with the sprays and only use when necessary and not overdo. There was a segment that talked about not trying to kill them 3 times when they are killed with first spray so monitoring is very important using traps etc
 
The speakers at our meeting this week were saying the same things Aero. That's what IPM is all about, be knowledgeable, monitor, use cultural practices first and then spray if needed. It doesn't matter if it's a backyard orchard or commercial.
 
Maya good post at least you got everyone thinking which is a good thing. Now everyone can make up their own minds. I sent a not to one of the apple professors from Penn Stat Extension who just have a firebblight talk in wet seasons to see what she thinks of this issue. I will respond with her thoughts once I get them. We had a good meeting on stink bug, Apple borers, Apple nutrition and on secondary pests that are emerging as we are killing all the beneficials with the new single purpose insecticide of the week. San Jose Scale and a few other nasty pest are making a comeback due to the kissing of beneficials including most borers like dogwood borer
That's a perfect reason for using good cultural practices like using window screen to keep borers off of young trees rather than spraying for them.
 
Yes IPM was their theme and it makes sensie. They were also helpful in recommending what sprays to use and they always mentioned that you should try to diversify a bit and not continually use same thing to allow targets to develop resistance.
 
They did a big section on resistance w/ us too this week.
 
How important is adding mycorr... if you are planting crab apples on sites with about 4-6 inches of top soil and then gravel underneath?
I ahve been adding a few bags of black dirt and compost like Ed does. I also add a bit of pel lime. Things growing slowly in the northwoods as compared to my soils where I live.
 
How important is adding mycorr... if you are planting crab apples on sites with about 4-6 inches of top soil and then gravel underneath?
I ahve been adding a few bags of black dirt and compost like Ed does. I also add a bit of pel lime. Things growing slowly in the northwoods as compared to my soils where I live.
I've never used it Art, so I cant give you a report. I just always do a soil sample a year out for a planting if possible. It takes all the guess work out. Soil is amended for the area, not just the hole.( I do add some good top soil to get them a good start too) I'd do a soil sample for the area up there and figure out why it is not doing well. You can guess but it's cheaper and easier to do a sample. I'm sure U of Minn. does them specifically for apples.
 
I just placed my order with Maple Valley. I'm anxious to do some grafting!

Hidden Rose
Thornberry Crab
Court Pendu Plat
Redvein Crab
Prairie Spy
Yarwood Crab
 
I've never used it Art, so I cant give you a report. I just always do a soil sample a year out for a planting if possible. It takes all the guess work out. Soil is amended for the area, not just the hole.( I do add some good top soil to get them a good start too) I'd do a soil sample for the area up there and figure out why it is not doing well. You can guess but it's cheaper and easier to do a sample. I'm sure U of Minn. does them specifically for apples.
My pH runs 4.5 to 5.0 up there. I have some sample results somewhere. Phos was high. Soils have never been farmed. I throw some pel lime in the hole and stick to crab apples in most cases.
 
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