Wicked high rates of gypsum and compost on BHS

SD51555

5 year old buck +
I've had some white spruce die in my yard at camp, and they've been replanted once, and sometimes twice and still died. I have diagnosed the problem as stupidly high clay content, and a lack of oxygen. This past weekend, I replaced all those dead trees with potted black hills spruce. I've had luck in the past growing black hills in almost pure clay.

I decided to really intervene and try to change this soil. I keep a strategic reserve of aspen sawdust at my place. I had a neighbor that milled a houses building materials out of aspen logs. I got all of his sawdust from his saw mill and planer. I've got yards of it.

It's been rotting for 2-3 years now, and it's pretty well gone from bright colored dust to very dark brown or black matter. I dug out the root zone of those dead trees to about 3x the opening the potted tree would require. I took out about 2/3 of the dirt and set it aside. I left 1/3 in the hole, and mixed in that rotted sawdust and a very generous amount of gypsum, like 1-2 pints per hole (like a 3 gallon hole).

I stirred that gypsum and sawdust into the remaining clay very well and then dug it out to set aside while I put the root ball in. I then backfilled the hole with the made mix. I took the remaining un-amended dirt and scattered it thinly over the top of the soil, to maybe an inch thick. I then put more gypsum on top that un-amended clay. I then put even more rotted saw dust on top of that, and then I put the weed mat back on, and the rest of the old wood chips.

I'd be lying if i said I wasn't worried about too much calcium and too much sulfur. But I'm tired of losing to this airless tooth paste clay. I had one hole near the ditch that had zero topsoil. It was already a dead zone for oyxgen and topsoil, so I went at it hard with air, carbon, calcium, and sulfate sulfur. I also got an inch of rain on Monday, so I'm anxious to see how this pans out. If they're gonna die because I went to hot with the dose, I hope I see it sooner rather than later.
 
I like this idea

Im going hugelkultur theory on my next orchard attempt in heavy clay ( this November)by throwing in some old bark and tree scraps from last years firewood chores at the bottom of the hole

Will follow this with moldy old sawdust material you describe to fill airspaces

Follow with summer grass clippings ,topsoil ,clay mix

bill
 
Almost forgot.......

Im broadcasting a "wicked high rate of gypsum" over above mentioned 1/2 acre area today after work!

bill
 
I've had some white spruce die in my yard at camp, and they've been replanted once, and sometimes twice and still died. I have diagnosed the problem as stupidly high clay content, and a lack of oxygen. This past weekend, I replaced all those dead trees with potted black hills spruce. I've had luck in the past growing black hills in almost pure clay.

I decided to really intervene and try to change this soil. I keep a strategic reserve of aspen sawdust at my place. I had a neighbor that milled a houses building materials out of aspen logs. I got all of his sawdust from his saw mill and planer. I've got yards of it.

It's been rotting for 2-3 years now, and it's pretty well gone from bright colored dust to very dark brown or black matter. I dug out the root zone of those dead trees to about 3x the opening the potted tree would require. I took out about 2/3 of the dirt and set it aside. I left 1/3 in the hole, and mixed in that rotted sawdust and a very generous amount of gypsum, like 1-2 pints per hole (like a 3 gallon hole).

I stirred that gypsum and sawdust into the remaining clay very well and then dug it out to set aside while I put the root ball in. I then backfilled the hole with the made mix. I took the remaining un-amended dirt and scattered it thinly over the top of the soil, to maybe an inch thick. I then put more gypsum on top that un-amended clay. I then put even more rotted saw dust on top of that, and then I put the weed mat back on, and the rest of the old wood chips.

I'd be lying if i said I wasn't worried about too much calcium and too much sulfur. But I'm tired of losing to this airless tooth paste clay. I had one hole near the ditch that had zero topsoil. It was already a dead zone for oyxgen and topsoil, so I went at it hard with air, carbon, calcium, and sulfate sulfur. I also got an inch of rain on Monday, so I'm anxious to see how this pans out. If they're gonna die because I went to hot with the dose, I hope I see it sooner rather than later.
Good luck with your experiment, SD. We have some of that sticky clay also. I wish we could flip it over like a pancake & add OM, compost, manure, and maybe a bit of sand to loosen it up. I have clay in our home lawn. Every year I aerate it with a plug-pulling type machine, and then spread aged mushroom compost over the lawn to get down in those holes. It takes years to see much improvement - and it's slim improvement!
I hope your trial gets better results.
 
It can't get any worse, so I wanted to go big and granular and high calcium in pure paste.
 
Is there a different subsoil under the clay that you are dealing with on the surface? I'm just wondering if you somehow found a way to punch through that clay layer there might be a chance of succeeding? If you have solid clay until you hit the water table, then you have your work cut out for you
 
One of our local golf courses here in OZ (AZ) is having trouble keeping grass alive......due to it being clay and not absorbing water and also having a high salt content in the reclaimed water. They can pour water on it all day.....and it just puddles and does not penetrate the clay. Normally these days when they rebuild a golf course they will put a sand blanket over all the soils to allow water to be retained. Pretty expensive process as lots of sand has to be hauled.

The grass on this course is currently in terrible shape........so they have a deep coring machine that punches holes about a foot deep.......and they follow that machine with an inch or so of sand and work that sand into the cores punched. It's a pretty expensive process......but can provide a few more years of decent grass production before a full rebuild again.

^ Probably does not help you any....unless you buy a coring machine and a sand pit.
 
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One of our local golf courses here in OZ (AZ) is having trouble keeping grass alive......due to it being clay and not absorbing water and also having a high salt content in the reclaimed water. They can pour water on it all day.....and it just puddles and does not penetrate the clay. Normally these days when they rebuild a golf course they will put a sand blanket over all the soils to allow water to be retained. Pretty expensive process as lots of sand has to be hauled.

The grass on this course is currently in terrible shape........so they have a deep coring machine that punches holes about a foot deep.......and they follow that machine with an inch or so of sand and work that sand into the cores punched. It's a pretty expensive process......but can provide a few more years of decent grass production before a full rebuild again.

^ Probably does not help you any....unless you buy a coring machine and a sand pit.

They should throw gypsum on there. The calcium would mellow out the clay, and the sulfate will bind with the sodium and help it go down.

If they have drainage.


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Should be great for pond building. Make lemonade :)
 
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