The Throw n’ Mow Method

[Ck1084]

I have a couple small food plots I'm going to convert to throw and mow. My question is I read about not planting Brassicas more than 2 years in a row. If I plant brassicas in the fall with WR, then Throw and roll buckwheat/crimson clover in the spring, can I keep planting brassicas every fall? Basically will the buckwheat and crimson act as a buffer crop between the turnip and radish plantings?

I've planted Oats/Clover previously to act as a buffer crop on year three, but they don't seem to like it as much as the radish and turnips tops in the fall.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

Yes

 

[Ck1084]

Thanks ST.Fanatic....that's what I needed to know.

 

[ksgobbler]

I like that observation. Sufficient winter carryover, building OM and recycling nutrients. What else do you have, ksgobbler?

Nothing else planted for deer. A feeder behind the house that saw little utilization this fall. Bean field a mile east that I know was pretty attractive.

 

[tbarile]

How are you planting the buckwheat in the spring?

 

[Bowman]

Wild guess that this is going into the brassica side of the plot. I broadcast and cultipack. Here is some "local" info: https://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/afcm/buckwheat.html

 

[Ck1084]

Thats my plan. I had a failed turnip/radish plot, that was overtaken by volunteer oats. I also added some Winter Rye to fill in some bare spots. My plan is to broadcast (with an earth-way seeder or push behind spreader) the buckwheat around memorial day (depending on temps) then roll down the oats/winter rye with a small ATV cultipacker. Then I will spray everything with Gly and cross my fingers.

Then around Mid August I'll broadcast the field with turnips and radish again. Then roll and spray the buckwheat down with the cultipacker to shield the seeds.

I've always rented a rototiller and spent multiple full weekends prepping the ground. I'm anxious to try this method from a time savings stand point.

 

[Bowman]

If the rye was planted least fall, it should regrow this spring. Rye is allelopathic, it reduces weeds. The rye growth itself will reduce weeds. I would broadcast the buckwheat (depending on temperature) then mow the rye to about 8 -10". I do not spray. Buckwheat growth will also crowd out weeds. I would plant August 1, especially with rain in the forecast and then cultipack the buckwheat and rye. Possibly cultipack again, in the same direction, for a mulch and weed suppression. The earlier planting date is for more growth.

 

[roymunson]

anyone have any success with T&M in the spring with clover? Didn't get access to this piece and I have a big stand of clover I want to put in. Or should I just let it go til this fall and put it in then?

 

[ksgobbler]

Here it is hard to get established before summer heat comes and kicks its ass. Your results may vary.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I don't see why not. I would plant with a nurse crop of oats though.

 

[SwampCat]

Here it is hard to get established before summer heat comes and kicks its ass. Your results may vary.

That is often what we see further south - insufficient root establishment to weather the summer drought.

 

[35-acre]

Thats my plan. I had a failed turnip/radish plot, that was overtaken by volunteer oats. I also added some Winter Rye to fill in some bare spots. My plan is to broadcast (with an earth-way seeder or push behind spreader) the buckwheat around memorial day (depending on temps) then roll down the oats/winter rye with a small ATV cultipacker. Then I will spray everything with Gly and cross my fingers.

Then around Mid August I'll broadcast the field with turnips and radish again. Then roll and spray the buckwheat down with the cultipacker to shield the seeds.

I've always rented a rototiller and spent multiple full weekends prepping the ground. I'm anxious to try this method from a time savings stand point.

Something to consider is that seeding rates are a bit higher with T&M compared to soil that was tilled.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[don]

Seed is cheap when compared to un-necessarily disturbing your soil.

 

[35-acre]

Seed is cheap when compared to un-necessarily disturbing your soil.

I agree. I just wanted to point that out to someone getting started. I didn't know that my first time through and I ended up with a "thinner" plot the first planting or two, which left me thinking that I had done something wrong. Someone on here pointed that out to me and that really solved my problem. Just passing it on.

 

[scott44]

I agree. I just wanted to point that out to someone getting started. I didn't know that my first time through and I ended up with a "thinner" plot the first planting or two, which left me thinking that I had done something wrong. Someone on here pointed that out to me and that really solved my problem. Just passing it on.

Also remember when planting coated seed like clover that 30-40 % of the weight is coating so you should take that into consideration when planting.

 

[BenAllgood]

Also remember when planting coated seed like clover that 30-40 % of the weight is coating so you should take that into consideration when planting.

I always thought of the coating as helpful instead of taking away from the seeds' effectiveness (for reputable companies). I don't change my planting rate for raw vs coated seed. I know there is less actual seed, but feel the coating increases germination, especially in less than ideal planting situations. But, I do always go over on the rates in no till top sowing scenarios.

 

[scott44]

I always thought of the coating as helpful instead of taking away from the seeds' effectiveness (for reputable companies). I don't change my planting rate for raw vs coated seed. I know there is less actual seed, but feel the coating increases germination, especially in less than ideal planting situations. But, I do always go over on the rates in no till top sowing scenarios.

I wasn't saying the coating is taking away from the effectiveness it's just that if you buy 10# of coated seed and planting it you're really only planting 6-7# of seed.

 

[BenAllgood]

I wasn't saying the coating is taking away from the effectiveness it's just that if you buy 10# of coated seed and planting it you're relly only planting 6-7# of seed.

Gotcha. I don't change my rate to compensate for the coating. If anything, I'll put extra raw seed down to compensate for it not having the help of the coating for germination.

 

[SwampCat]

I have been attempting a couple tnm plots each year for the past three years. This is my first one, this spring, that I actually consider a success. But even this one was much slower to establish when I planted last fall than my other plots. I dont ever plant before the first week of Oct due to army worms and dry september weather. Conventional tillage plots at my place will germinate much quicker - I guess due to at least some existing soil moisture. My conventional tillage plots are lush and ready to go by hunting season. The tnm plots, not so much.