Soil test timing

Wanabhunter

Yearling... With promise
I’m planning on doing my first plot for next season. I’m learning that testing the soil is very important.

Can I take a soil sample now (in the western New York area) or should I do it closer to the time I want to plant?

What do you think of whitetail institutes soil test kit or are there better ones?
 
You can soil sample anytime of the year. Most farmers have their fields sampled in the fall so they can correct for any nutrient deficiencies that fall or the following spring around planting. You can definitely sample and have the analysis run now.

I would use your local Land Grant University soil testing lab. They are generally very reputable and affordable. Cornell has an extension web page on interpreting soil test reports that will help providing instructions on how to sample, which test to have run, and how to interpret the results.
 
Most of the labs all use the same tests for basic soil analysis (Let's not get into Ward stuff). Wherever you send it, just make sure you get the following data points:

Buffer pH
CEC
Base saturation

If you're in this for the long haul, I'd recommend Midwest Labs. They do the most comprehensive soil tests out there. Free and cheap tests are free and cheap because they only do a fraction of the tests. The other end of the spectrum is to just get a plain soil pH test and guess at the lime, and you'll probably be ok too. If you do Midwest, get the S3C test.


Whatever you decide, bring the results back and we can knock a day off of winter debating what to do with your results.
 
What is the difference in pH and buffer pH?

bill
 
What is the difference in pH and buffer pH?

bill
Buffer pH is a measure of how easily soil pH can be moved with a given rate of lime. It's a necessary value needed to make a liming rate/acre rec. pH changes with lower rates on sandy soil, and requires higher rates on clay soil.

 
The Whitetail Institutes test seems like a good option, and will provide the needed information for a good plot.

I have been using the Clemson University soil tests. The cost is $15 and includes the mailer, shipping, and the soil test. Turnaround time is about 15 days. This is good option if you do not have a convenient drop point for a test and want to save a little $--just take the samples, drop it in the mail and the results will be emailed to you.

Now is a great time to do the test, as it provides plenty of time to plan for any required amendments prior to planting.
 
The Whitetail Institutes test seems like a good option, and will provide the needed information for a good plot.

I have been using the Clemson University soil tests. The cost is $15 and includes the mailer, shipping, and the soil test. Turnaround time is about 15 days. This is good option if you do not have a convenient drop point for a test and want to save a little $--just take the samples, drop it in the mail and the results will be emailed to you.

Now is a great time to do the test, as it provides plenty of time to plan for any required amendments prior to planting.
I like this idea. For this do I just print out the soil analysis form and mail that in with my samples? Also do I just use the Standard Soil test?
 
I like this idea. For this do I just print out the soil analysis form and mail that in with my samples? Also do I just use the Standard Soil test?
Also if I pay online do I get an authorization number or something I attach to the form to show I paid or how does that work?
 
I’m planning on doing my first plot for next season. I’m learning that testing the soil is very important.

Can I take a soil sample now (in the western New York area) or should I do it closer to the time I want to plant?

What do you think of whitetail institutes soil test kit or are there better ones?



I took my samples Last Friday. Even though I'm in Southern Michigan, the ground was starting to get a little stiff for the probe and the soil is pretty damp and needed to be dried up. It should go to the CERES today.
 
Buffer pH is a measure of how easily soil pH can be moved with a given rate of lime. It's a necessary value needed to make a liming rate/acre rec. pH changes with lower rates on sandy soil, and requires higher rates on clay soil.


Thanks

The link was extremely helpful and provided a great explanation

bill
 
Thanks

The link was extremely helpful and provided a great explanation

bill
I always use the chart in that link. I've seen some guys get lime recs calling for 10 tons per acre, and others get lime recs for 1 ton per acre. A lot of extra $$ and labor can be blown a bad lime rec.
 
I want to get my plot restested this year. Cornell charges a bit extra to interpet the results. The outfit called Dairy one does the testing for them.

A few things about this land..

What was on this land for the past few years? Was the soil distrubed someway and how, plowing, stump removal, bulldozer leveling ,etc? Got a picture or description of whats growing on it now? Any recent fertilizer / lime / manure.

There is several different ways to get the soil sample. Most usually dig down about 4 inches. I have took a shovel removed the first inch or two of soil, the root bundle part, then take soil from 3-4 inches down. Do that in a dozen different places that seem to be similar in fertility. Sometimes an oddball spot could have something like oil residue, too much lime in a spot, or other local interference. Sometimes its just too much soil compaction. Established no-till spots can benefit from the top inch or two of soil.

What are you planning to do in that plot. What equipment are you using to make / maintain that plot.

When they recommend lime, they usually assume it's getting tilled in about 6 inches. If your using a implement that tills shallow, or just scratching the sufrace for seed to soil contat, you can put too much lime in. It takes time to get into the soil depth. Plowing it gets it there fast.

If you use cornell, they ask about your usage. Pastures, commericla AG grops, vegetable, fruit, etc...

Far as a bad time to take a sample, really wet is bad.


In an ideal world, you want 3-6 months for the lime to do its thing in the soil. Farmers typically lime and even fertilize this time of year, mainly because there's no plants to run over and equipment will not get stuck in the mud.

After this nasty rain, I would wait 2 weeks. Get it in right away after that. Then you can put lime in the soil iin januaary or febuary. You can even plant seeds more or less right now too. It's not necesarily an august thing only.
 
I like this idea. For this do I just print out the soil analysis form and mail that in with my samples? Also do I just use the Standard Soil test?
They send you the soil package with pre-paid postage. You fill it with the soil, and drop it in the mail. The package will have unique identifiers that you use, such as West Plot, North Garden, etc… There is really nothing to print, just an old fashioned pen or marker.
 
A bigger question is are you going to roto or disc or are you going no till or broadcasting with a roller crimper..
 
The Whitetail Institutes test seems like a good option, and will provide the needed information for a good plot.

I have been using the Clemson University soil tests. The cost is $15 and includes the mailer, shipping, and the soil test. Turnaround time is about 15 days. This is good option if you do not have a convenient drop point for a test and want to save a little $--just take the samples, drop it in the mail and the results will be emailed to you.

Now is a great time to do the test, as it provides plenty of time to plan for any required amendments prior to planting.
Is this site SC specific? The soil codes I see are only with SC.
 
Is this site SC specific? The soil codes I see are only with SC.
I am in Missouri and use the Clemson service. Here is the order page if using a Credit Card.
 
A bigger question is are you going to roto or disc or are you going no till or broadcasting with a roller crimper..
I’m going to use an arc disc tiller.
 
Most of the labs all use the same tests for basic soil analysis (Let's not get into Ward stuff). Wherever you send it, just make sure you get the following data points:

Buffer pH
CEC
Base saturation

If you're in this for the long haul, I'd recommend Midwest Labs. They do the most comprehensive soil tests out there. Free and cheap tests are free and cheap because they only do a fraction of the tests. The other end of the spectrum is to just get a plain soil pH test and guess at the lime, and you'll probably be ok too. If you do Midwest, get the S3C test.


Whatever you decide, bring the results back and we can knock a day off of winter debating what to do with your results.
Atta boy SD. Love when you nerd out over soil.
 
Omi it's nerdy but super cool to be obsessed with your soils. Definitely not a huge proportion of the population but I will bet you some of the best guys on this planet. Nothing like being a gamekeeper. Can you imagine being together with us deciding what's the best way to put in a food plot
 
I’m chief nerd.
 
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