Soil Testing Crop codes?

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Boxed up my soil samples today. They asked me about crop codes? I am doing the rye/clover/turnips rotation more or less. They had Rye cover, Rye for Seed, Rye grain, pasture/legumes, intensive pasture managedment (control grazing), Wheat/legume, and oat/legume. They asked what was there the last 3 years and plan for next 3 years. I just put rye cover crop. They had a space for %legumes, I called it 25%.

They asked about tillage and drainage. I put the code for 1-7 inch tillage and inadequate drainage. I will be rototilling my little 1/2 acre plot 1/3 at a time every year. That's why I put tillage.

They told me to get the soil type by looking it up on the map. https://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/

I sent them a sample of the apple orchard area. I sent them a sample about 2-6" deep. They had a apple tree crop code, They asked if it was pre-plant or maintenance. If you put maintenance, you need to send a 1-7 inch, and 8-24 inch separate samples. This is a new orchard, about 25 trees planted in 2023. Converted from lawn, 6ft daimeter spots were tilled up and ammended with lime fertilizer peat moss and some topsoil right where the rootball is. Soil samples were between the trees where no soil prep was done.

I used dairy one in ithaca NY.

I figured I mention the process to see if anyone put something different for the crop codes for their foodplots. In the past I have put oats with legumes, which is close to what I have planted most years.

 

[Telemark]

I did something similar, just to simplify my interpretation of the recommendations. It was a long time ago, so I don't remember the details, but I don't think it had any impact on the test results, only the recommendations. I take those recommendations with a grain of salt anyway, so I didn't worry about being imprecise with my description of the land use. If I was going to plant anything for profit, I would take it more seriously, but I was satisfied with the results I got being adequate for my needs.

 

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I figured it was just the recommendtion. What we do squeak between the cracks of several activities.

I don't know if the regular core sampling tool is going through my soil. Established orchards require a 1-6 inch sample and a 8-24 inch sample. They say most of the nutrients come from the deeper zone.

I might dig a few holes between the trees to get samples. This is my backyard, so don't want a land mine zone too bad either. Might only dig 6 or so. I was planning on spreading some potash over the entire area. I may wait until after I do these samples.

 

[RGrizzzz]

I use Penn State for soil tests. They have a "wildlife food plot" category on their sample forms. They also have orchard crop forms. Takes out most of the guesswork.

If you're going to sample somewhat regularly, buy a soil probe to do it right.

 

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I use Penn State for soil tests. They have a "wildlife food plot" category on their sample forms. They also have orchard crop forms. Takes out most of the guesswork.

If you're going to sample somewhat regularly, buy a soil probe to do it right.

I got a soil probe for the top level. Don't have a 2 foot deep one. MY brother in law likely has one. His fertizer dealer does most of his sample collections. He literally is all over the northeast, so he outsources stuff reguarly. I'm kind of doubting I can use the tool in my hard clay with rocks here. Probably got to dig anyway.