Food plot

Cowboys518

Buck Fawn
I plan on planting my first food plot on my property 2 hours away , going to be 1-2 acres , Is it possible to disc the plot , and collect a soil sample the same day , and correct the soil if needed the day I plant ? Ik ideally I should get the soil sample befor anything but being 2 hours away and not having much time I’m trying to plan as much as I can on as few trips to the property , any recommendations or tips is appreciated
 
Any liming should be done ahead of time. Usually the amount of time depends on your soil type. I usually lime in the spring/summer for fall. I think fertilizer is ok to put on the same time as seed. That's what I do anyway.
 
Grow zone? Rainfall? Type of land near plot may help us internet blowhards give you more suggestions to confuse you.

Happy Holidays
 
You can guess at your soil pH. I'd just plant and take your sample, and come back and correct when you get there again. Your plants can make it the first month without fertilizer anyway. I don't know where you're located, but you could also use the national soil pH map to guess where you might be. Even that is still a guess.

 
What are you planting?
 
Have you considered sanfoin.?
 
Lime is a longer term thing. Take soil sample, disc and plant. I would throw some 13-13-13 and pellet lime at planting, then amend with fertilizer as you can. If that’s all the acreage you are planting, pellet or liquid lime should be fine.
 
Grow zone is 5, in NY , sorry forgot to include that , plan on planting brassicas and clover this year , sournding property’s are mostly woods with a couple fields that are just used for hay , property I have is about 50 acres of hardwood and a 5 acre open area, I wasn’t sure if I could just fertilize after planting , was curious if I could do that as well I th ought you had to fertilize and correct soil befor planting
 
Grow zone is 5, in NY , sorry forgot to include that , plan on planting brassicas and clover this year , sournding property’s are mostly woods with a couple fields that are just used for hay , property I have is about 50 acres of hardwood and a 5 acre open area, I wasn’t sure if I could just fertilize after planting , was curious if I could do that as well I th ought you had to fertilize and correct soil befor planting
This first year to plant?
 
Yes first year
I would read the throw and mow thread and some of the soil builder threads. I think of brassicas as the last step in the process. The first steps are take a soil test, amend with lime, hide the disc or tiller, plant tons of cereal rye and clover, and let the soil heal. Then, and only then, would I worry about a brassica specific plot.
 
I would read the throw and mow thread and some of the soil builder threads. I think of brassicas as the last step in the process. The first steps are take a soil test, amend with lime, hide the disc or tiller, plant tons of cereal rye and clover, and let the soil heal. Then, and only then, would I worry about a brassica specific plot.
Can you clarify why brassicas are last? In these steps, how long is the timeline? Are brassicas a year later?
 
Can you clarify why brassicas are last? In these steps, how long is the timeline? Are brassicas a year later?
These are my thoughts. You’ll get lots on here, all valid.

Diverse mixtures are the key. You want to get your soil healthy. Constant tillage and discing destroys soil. When first starting it’s fine first plot. Every few years to smooth plot or incorporate some lime fine. But every time you plant is not good.

Food plots are different than farming. Farmers make money for every lb of harvest. The nutrients all go into the plant then is taken away. They have to constantly amend soil to add those nutrients back. But even they are changing to no till and cover crops.

Take a fallow field. The plants that come in will go through a progression. Early plants like the type of soil, and mine what they need with deep roots. They repair the soil, and a few years later a new group of plants take over that benefit that soil, and they do the same process. Then another. Finally, many years later you will get a lush are full of plants that grow great in that area and you have great soil. Think of the Great Plains when settlers first got there.

I try to replicate that process.

We know synthetic fertilizers, especially N, are bad for the world, water, and even your soil. They kill the microbes that make it all work. So does tillage. Those microbes symbiotically live with the plants. They produce nitrogen from the air. They help break down rocks for phos and k. Earthworms naturally aerate the soil and provide organic matter. That’s what I want working for me.

So how do I do that.

1. I severely limit turning the dirt.
2. I stopped using N, and I am almost to the point of no fertilizer at all.
3. I plant things that do well in my area. To grow things that don’t normally grow there is constantly trying to push a boulder uphill.
Cereal Rye is the key to it all. You plant it early, often, and heavy. It has deep roots that hold the soil, aerate it, and mine die nutrients. As it dies on top (remember we aren’t farmers. The plants die and decompose on the field) adding all those nutrients back to the next crop. They have an allelopathic effect that limits weeds in the next crop. It’s cheap and will germinate in back of pickup. And, deer love it. They eat it just as readily as oats or wheat.
4. I plant tons of clovers with mix. This is making my own nitrogen.
5. I plant a diverse mix. Think of that fallow field. Each different plant will mine different things, grow in different dirt and conditions. I sometimes plant 12-14 different things at one time. Including some brassicas. But they are a part of the process.

See how different that is than trying to grow a brassica plot?

This takes a few cycles. But you’ll have a lush rye field year one. Deer will love it. You’re never without a great plot. A lot of us started like you work plans to build soil and plant a beautiful brassica (or anything plot). But most of us just continue to plant a diverse mix. Deer our browsers. They like a buffet better than a one course meal. And will have something they prefer year round, not for 2 weeks when brassicas are the in thing for them.

Please read throw and mow thread. Read @SD51555 posts. Read @Native Hunter. Read @Foggy47. Read @Wild Thing

Go to growingdeertv.com and read and watch all of grant woods stuff.

Most on this board have some post documenting this whole process. This cycle has been repeated over and over. You don’t have to reinvent the wheel. I have a thread on here where I show my green cover.com release fields over past few cycles. The info is there. It is much more beneficial to spend a couple of days reading through others journeys than posting “what should I do.” It’s a simple process, but not specific to one scenario. It’s broad and has to be tailored to your scenario.

Good luck!
 
Thanks! Good stuff.
 
My neighbors use nurse oats / other type grains for starting alfalfa.

The deer /elk hardly ever leave those grain fields.
 
These are my thoughts. You’ll get lots on here, all valid.

Diverse mixtures are the key. You want to get your soil healthy. Constant tillage and discing destroys soil. When first starting it’s fine first plot. Every few years to smooth plot or incorporate some lime fine. But every time you plant is not good.

Food plots are different than farming. Farmers make money for every lb of harvest. The nutrients all go into the plant then is taken away. They have to constantly amend soil to add those nutrients back. But even they are changing to no till and cover crops.

Take a fallow field. The plants that come in will go through a progression. Early plants like the type of soil, and mine what they need with deep roots. They repair the soil, and a few years later a new group of plants take over that benefit that soil, and they do the same process. Then another. Finally, many years later you will get a lush are full of plants that grow great in that area and you have great soil. Think of the Great Plains when settlers first got there.

I try to replicate that process.

We know synthetic fertilizers, especially N, are bad for the world, water, and even your soil. They kill the microbes that make it all work. So does tillage. Those microbes symbiotically live with the plants. They produce nitrogen from the air. They help break down rocks for phos and k. Earthworms naturally aerate the soil and provide organic matter. That’s what I want working for me.

So how do I do that.

1. I severely limit turning the dirt.
2. I stopped using N, and I am almost to the point of no fertilizer at all.
3. I plant things that do well in my area. To grow things that don’t normally grow there is constantly trying to push a boulder uphill.
Cereal Rye is the key to it all. You plant it early, often, and heavy. It has deep roots that hold the soil, aerate it, and mine die nutrients. As it dies on top (remember we aren’t farmers. The plants die and decompose on the field) adding all those nutrients back to the next crop. They have an allelopathic effect that limits weeds in the next crop. It’s cheap and will germinate in back of pickup. And, deer love it. They eat it just as readily as oats or wheat.
4. I plant tons of clovers with mix. This is making my own nitrogen.
5. I plant a diverse mix. Think of that fallow field. Each different plant will mine different things, grow in different dirt and conditions. I sometimes plant 12-14 different things at one time. Including some brassicas. But they are a part of the process.

See how different that is than trying to grow a brassica plot?

This takes a few cycles. But you’ll have a lush rye field year one. Deer will love it. You’re never without a great plot. A lot of us started like you work plans to build soil and plant a beautiful brassica (or anything plot). But most of us just continue to plant a diverse mix. Deer our browsers. They like a buffet better than a one course meal. And will have something they prefer year round, not for 2 weeks when brassicas are the in thing for them.

Please read throw and mow thread. Read @SD51555 posts. Read @Native Hunter. Read @Foggy47. Read @Wild Thing

Go to growingdeertv.com and read and watch all of grant woods stuff.

Most on this board have some post documenting this whole process. This cycle has been repeated over and over. You don’t have to reinvent the wheel. I have a thread on here where I show my green cover.com release fields over past few cycles. The info is there. It is much more beneficial to spend a couple of days reading through others journeys than posting “what should I do.” It’s a simple process, but not specific to one scenario. It’s broad and has to be tailored to your scenario.

Good luck!
I look at it a little bit differently. I think a brassica plot (mainly tillage radish) is a great plant to start with. The deer will devour the tops and even if they don't eat the roots, those roots are going to bore deep into the soil and really help out for the future (especially for a TNM plot)

Knowing what I do now after 15 years of food plotting, If i was just starting out all of my plots would consist of tillage radish, annual clover, and winter rye. Super easy and will do wonders for your soil.
 
I look at it a little bit differently. I think a brassica plot (mainly tillage radish) is a great plant to start with. The deer will devour the tops and even if they don't eat the roots, those roots are going to bore deep into the soil and really help out for the future (especially for a TNM plot)

Knowing what I do now after 15 years of food plotting, If i was just starting out all of my plots would consist of tillage radish, annual clover, and winter rye. Super easy and will do wonders for your soil.
that’s awesome. Love having different ways to do things.
 
I look at it a little bit differently. I think a brassica plot (mainly tillage radish) is a great plant to start with. The deer will devour the tops and even if they don't eat the roots, those roots are going to bore deep into the soil and really help out for the future (especially for a TNM plot)

Knowing what I do now after 15 years of food plotting, If i was just starting out all of my plots would consist of tillage radish, annual clover, and winter rye. Super easy and will do wonders for your soil.
I'm coming back around to that. I love perennial clover, but it's a real pain to try to get it to play nicely with others. I've got a spot to reset this coming year, and I'm going at it with Balansa as my clover. I've got enough sweet clover down in a couple spots to watch that into years 2+. It'd be super if it'd rain this coming season so I can see if some of these ideas actually pan out.

It's a spot where I buried a bunch of trees and stumps and tag alder stems. It's been an awesome piece of ground, but the grasses have reclaimed the hill after 5 years.
 
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