Siding for a box blind?

Yes needs plywood or boards. Good idea to put tar paper underneath just like shingles.

Lasts? In the case of our hunting/fishing shack about 35 yrs...
 
OSB board is fine for blinds if the outside is painted (buy returned ext latex at the box store) and the inside kept dry (buy windows....good windows...well sealed...easy and quiet to open) and a shingled roof (shingles rock!). Wind blocking of sheathing is what keeps the blind warm.....or hot....or slows drying of wet internal sheathing surfaces which leads to wood rot or foggy windows. So make them 'tight' (all joints) but put in a couple wire mesh covered vents under eave...the inside has to 'breathe'. Use subfloor or treated plywood for roof and floor. All other wood should be treated. Inner shelves can be non treated.

Coated OSB is about twice price of uncoated OSB.....but factory primed...and green!
http://www.homedepot.com/p/7-16-In-4-Ft-x-8-Ft-Huber-Zip-OSB-Wall-Sheathing-777198/202089190

Windows and shingles are everything to protecting the interior from excess moisture!
http://deerviewwindows.com/hinge-window-3/

Shingles....just regular shingles...tar and grit....bundles or rolls....frame roof edge and add aluminum edge trim too!
http://www.homedepot.com/s/shingles?NCNI-5

Just finished replacing a non-shingled roof on a old blind....with shingles it would have been just fine.....live and learn! We are building a new portable wood blind if some of you are interested in pics?

Figure the price and time required to build a blind....and a maintenance free time frame of 10-15 years. Then decide if a Redneck blind would suit you better?

Build or buy a platform....Redneck is steel. Again....all treated lumber....all joints tight and secure (3.5x10 stainless deck screws or galvanized nails, Liquid Nails subfloor glue, roofing staple zippers or galvanized framing plates).


Will the blind withstand 70+ mph winds? Sheathed walls are like a sail on a ship...amplifying wind force! All legs anchored to deck blocks with Red-Head anchors http://www.homedepot.com/s/red+head+anchors?NCNI-5

30" ground anchor pounded and screwed a foot deep but lodged in rock. Where you want to put a blind may be very rocky....so find a big rock to supplant ground anchor. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...earth-anchor-with-3-in-dia-auger?cm_vc=IOPDP1

So will it hold?
 
A better look at platform before adding staple zippers as final step. Floor joists can be on 14.5-16" centers....with brace blocks in the middle....kinda depends on outer dimensions....use 2x6s. For elevated stands.....add two 3/8" galvanized bolts per leg and another brace block to inner leg side....the corners will be solid and the floor solid and quiet. For a wood blind, prefab the walls and add them...glue and screw or glue and nail as you go. Bolt Redneck down with four 3/8" galvanized lags though subfloor into joists....call to find out center to center measurement as the blind floor is predrilled....this one was on 34" and 38" centers....34" will bolt to joists on 16s with a little angle on the bolt to catch the middle....a 3.5x10 screw can be used as a pilot hole and to make sure you are screwing into joist and not missing it (cheaper to lose a screw than a bit).



We have been tweaking wood blinds over the years and always open to suggestions to build a better blind.....so feel free to add comment or ask questions. Our first blind was nothing more than paneling sides on a 2x4 frame....so we've came a long way since rebuilding that one. A basic set of framing tools are nice to have.....beg borrow or buy.


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That is interesting. Have a link to the product your using?

https://www.menards.com/main/low-sl...-x-20-epdm-rubber-roofing/p-1444444062611.htm.

Very similar to this, a friend of mine works at the factory so I commodity trade rubber roofing for fermented barley. He gets access to ends of the runs very cheap

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Take the free siding, it'll work fine over some wood sheathing. You can paint it any color you want and it will never rot.

I can't justify several grand out of my family budget for a commercial blind, not sure if I'd buy one even if I could. But to each their own, I enjoy building things and that works well within my hobby budget.
 
Finishing up a box stand as well.. only expense so far is hardware. Already had the lumber. Using dog ear fence boards for the side.
2789e161be55050edd40bfe2c01295af.jpg


44367cf542d2f1729feb349fd2a85f64.jpg


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I've posted these before here, but thought I would mention it again. Last year I used one of these:
http://www.menards.com/main/tree-st...-h-pentagon-hunting-blind/p-1444424094243.htm

It's well built. but no shadow hunter. Much more affordable as well. Although there isn't anything wrong with building your own too!

-John

That's not a bad price. We don't have Menards around here. I think the size is about right. Might be tough for a bow but nice for a gun.
 
I've posted these before here, but thought I would mention it again. Last year I used one of these:
http://www.menards.com/main/tree-st...-h-pentagon-hunting-blind/p-1444424094243.htm

It's well built. but no shadow hunter. Much more affordable as well. Although there isn't anything wrong with building your own too!

-John

That's one of the most reasonably priced ones I've seen. Most have the decimal point moved further to the right.
 
I use used tin. Doesn't rot and doesn't need to be painted unless you want to. I just build the frame and then screw the tin to it.
 
Always make sure in concrete when using straight legs,mine blew over twice and it's 6ft off the ground
 
We used cedar slab wood leftover from a sawmill. $30 for a trailer and it makes 3 stands. Blends in nicely, light and will take a lifetime to rot.

If you want it totally airtight we put carpet inside.
 

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