Penn State DR apple list

[Bowsnbucks]

I don't know if someone else has posted this before. The link is extension.psu.edu/tree-fruit/scab-resistant-cultivars. It has background info on the apples listed too. it's another source for DR apple trees for no / low spray folks.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

NH - I think it's the same link. The one I posted worked for me and I even typed it into the search bar before I posted it to see if it worked as written. It did for me. I think you found the longer version of the same link ?? At any rate, it seemed to have good info in it. Yes - I noticed the same thing about the German DR - FB trees. That'll be good if they can accomplish it. Interesting verdict on the Nova Easy-Grow.

 

[Lot2Learn]

Two varieties on that list that we don't talk about much are Sundance and WineCrisp.

We don't talk about them because they are patented and thus it's verboten to propagate, but I have one of each that I purchased from Cummins. Though my trees are just third leaf, they've both been strong, healthy growers and I pinched 40-50 apples off of the WineCrisp this year (trying to favor growth over production).

While that's not a full report, if I was starting and orchard and/or buying apple trees, they'd be on my short list.

I wonder if anyone is this group is buying apples anymore?

 

[Bowsnbucks]

I already have a list that I ordered from Cummins for the spring of 2016. 7 apples - so far - 1 each : Galarina, Crimson Topaz, Sundance, Freedom, Wickson, Kerr, and Liberty ( the 5th one of Liberty for us ). I also have 3 rootstocks that I'm growing out just to see what they turn out to be. So 10 going in for sure at camp next spring !! I'll also graft again next late-winter. Next spring we'll be up to 58 apples & crabs planted in the last 4 years. That'll pretty much finish us. All about care and protection then.

 

[chummer]

This is a good topic. Sorry to hijack the thread. I am pretty much out of room at my camp. I have about 50 fruit trees caged. What do you guys do when you are out of room. Do you turn it into a maintenance plan like NH and Bows, or do you clear new areas and keep going. I am leaning towards maintenance until I find if I can even get these trees to produce. However, I don't want to loose the years of planting while I figure that out. What to do?

 

[SD51555]

This is a good topic. Sorry to hijack the thread. I am pretty much out of room at my camp. I have about 50 fruit trees caged. What do you guys do when you are out of room. Do you turn it into a maintenance plan like NH and Bows, or do you clear new areas and keep going. I am leaning towards maintenance until I find if I can even get these trees to produce. However, I don't want to loose the years of planting while I figure that out. What to do?

I'd go looking for dominant stands of desirable browse species and start bringing them down. If you've got food plots, I'd also start pushing the edges out further.

 

[aerospacefarmer]

I am just over 400 now and need to find homes for 12 more grafted this year on P18 which are big trees. I think I will go into maintenance mode too or just maybe 10 per year of some cool cider varieties. I spent more money for wire cages than I am worth lol. To addicting but you need to stop at some point. About 70% of my trees this year are producing fruit. I don't pick off any apples lol. It's amen experiment for me

 

[Rally1148]

I am just over 400 now and need to find homes for 12 more grafted this year on P18 which are big trees. I think I will go into maintenance mode too or just maybe 10 per year of some cool cider varieties. I spent more money for wire cages than I am worth lol. To addicting but you need to stop at some point. About 70% of my trees this year are producing fruit. I don't pick off any apples lol. It's amen experiment for me

How big do the P.18's get compared to the B.118's ? Actually, what is the mature height on your/everyone's B.118's. I look online and all I can find is 80-95% of a seedling. Then I find that seedings can be 25-40 feet, so it still gives me a pretty big range. I've always figured a B.118 will end up being an 18-25 foot tree.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Chummer - No hi-jack to me, friend. It's ALL good. I like hearing the opinions and doings of all of the forum guys. I posted the Penn State DR link at the beginning of this thread just to provide more info. Where it goes from there doesn't make a hoot to me if it doesn't bother the moderator.

NH - You're a tempting son-of-a-gun NH !!! I'd love to just keep going, but all our open ground will be pretty much filled with apples, crabs, and hawthorns. Don't want to clear forest habitat for more fruit trees. If we had another 10 acres of old fields to plant in - look out !!! The other fields we DO have are food plots. I'll still graft a few trees in case we lose some to disease or bugs or bears, and I'll probably order a couple from TC, but the major planting will be done after next spring. The focus then will be back to cover and browse improvements.

 

[chickenlittle]

How big do the P.18's get compared to the B.118's ? Actually, what is the mature height on your/everyone's B.118's. I look online and all I can find is 80-95% of a seedling. Then I find that seedings can be 25-40 feet, so it still gives me a pretty big range. I've always figured a B.118 will end up being an 18-25 foot tree.

The height should depend on the apple variety. Vigor is the term used. A high vigor variety on a semi dwarf rootstock might be the same size/height as a low vigor variety on a larger rootstock. I tried to factor this in while laying out my orchard. I have B118 and P18 in the upper 2/3 with lower vigor varieties on the bottom edge of that block. G30, m7, g890, g222 in the bottom third with higher vigor on the upper edge of that. I have no idea what the height of each tree will actually be or if this will make a difference.