Ohio Farm Tours

Did you spray to burndown the carbon load or just mowing and planting nitro boost green and letting it be?

So I did not spray this field last fall - but did decide to spray due to some fescue coming back this spring. My goal is to limit herbicide use on my fields to one time every 12-18 months.

Here is a new video I did on nutrient cycling and explaining how it works with balancing mixes.

 
I am extremely proud to continue to be able to give back and support conservation! Thank you to so many here who have supported us, and made this possible.
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Colin is great guy and friend - I was happy and excited to be on his podcast. If you’re interested in using fertilizer but not sure what/how to use it for your soil types - this might help!!

 
These two fields were no tilled and planted green.

We then did a herbicide burn off. We got rain post plant but it’s been dry since.

I am certain had this not been no tilled - this would be a total loss.

Thankfully with the cool morning and years of no till focused soil health - we are holding every little bit of moisture we are able. Fingers crossed for rain soon!!
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I often preach the importance of our fall mix, not only for Fall/winter but for the biomass creation the following spring. This is where sound balance and quality seed selection shine, alongside robust diversity. As you see Mr. Dwayne was laying it down!!! This will absolutely help with moisture retention and soil health development.

 
I get asked about this a lot, so I wanted to show a few videos this year on how a person can lightly till and still have success, using the tools they have access to.

 
Part two
 
There are no secrets to growing quality food plots. We need to focus on soil health and by doing so we will mitigate the risks of pressures outside of our control.

On the farm we have worked tremendously hard for the last 6 years to increase diversity, go to no till, increase acreage planted (to reduce browse pressure), and to never stop learning.

We have received rain right after planting. Since - we have not had more than a single .10th of an inch. Yet, the plots are still growing.

We need rain and need it bad. However, there is no denying that no tilling absolutely saved us this year!!

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Garden update
 
How does a guy know when it's time to deep till/rip his soil to loosen it up? Mine is concrete. I've had a couple decent warm season plots but nothing but failures in the fall due to lack of rain since I began my Regen journey 3 years ago.
 
How does a guy know when it's time to deep till/rip his soil to loosen it up? Mine is concrete. I've had a couple decent warm season plots but nothing but failures in the fall due to lack of rain since I began my Regen journey 3 years ago.

Do you have soil tests we can look at? It could be a compaction issue. It can also be a saturation imbalance. MN can have some heavy soils! Shoot me a DM or email or a soil test. I’m happy to help or try to, anytime!
 
Do you have soil tests we can look at? It could be a compaction issue. It can also be a saturation imbalance. MN can have some heavy soils! Shoot me a DM or email or a soil test. I’m happy to help or try to, anytime!

Your thread and @MN Slick's inquiry so do what you like but I'd be interested to see any input on this situation. I'm curious how no till (with a drill especially) would have failed plots due to lack of precip compared to if tillage were used? Seems like a guy should be better of in regards to moisture but maybe weed competition could be tougher?

I think MN Slick's main stuff is in N MO IIRC from prior posts.
 
Do you have soil tests we can look at? It could be a compaction issue. It can also be a saturation imbalance. MN can have some heavy soils! Shoot me a DM or email or a soil test. I’m happy to help or try to, anytime!

I'm going to pull soil samples next weekend and Wind Gypsy is correct, my farms are in North MO. I sent you a soil test on my other farm last year, both have clay and both are parched!!! I planted Vitalize into rye on that farm Memorial weekend then sprayed. So far it's gotten .3 and .1 of rain according to Climate. Thanks
 
@MN Slick - yes youre correct. I look at so many samples -It didn’t click at first. My apologies. I’d have to review them again for refresh my memory.

@Wind Gypsy - great questions.

So in general - if precipitation is the cause of no growth, tillage isn’t going to help this cause. Actually- it’ll hurt the cause. Using no till methods and armoring the soil - will fair much better. You’ll slow rain fall - which will reduce compaction risks, you’ll reduce erosion, you’ll reduce evaporation, etc. So if the leading cause is drought - that’s very hard to combat. The only thing we can do is increase or decrease seeding rates to make up for the seed that didn’t make it, was predated on, etc. assuming all
Other principles of soil health are being followed.

Now when do I see tillage as helping. Typicall when someone has very high CEC - they have an old fescue pasture and need a lot of lime, gypsum, etc. They’ll typically do a one time tillage to help incorporate the lime (for example) and then fit field to be converted to no till or conservative till thereafter.

I hope this makes sense to you all. Please ask questions anytime. I hope this helps.
 
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Much of what I do for deer - translate into what I like to do for family. These tomatoes are planted in 18 cec soil and 2% OM.

First full year with this garden and the soil needs work.

I refused to import manure or compost. I am just using cover crops and natural foliar see how well I can let biology grow these tomatoes. So far - I am very happy!! About 70 total plants in this spot.
 
A new way in which I am using cover crops in the blueberry patch.

 
After some much needed rain the NitroBoost is greening up nicely!! Just love seeing rain bring life to the farm!

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