John Deere 3020 Load Shaft Seal

[T-Max]

Our JD 3020 developed a significant hydraulic leak after planting last week. I think I have it narrowed down to the load shaft seals under the rear end. Has anyone ever worked on these on a JD 3020 or another model by chance? I have a new shaft and seals headed my way. I have heard that it can be very straightforward or a nightmare. Most say straightforward though. Looking for tips or ideas.

 

[Bill]

Never done it but I would have ordered a second set. If they didn't cost a fortune.
I tend screw up the first try on new stuff...

 

[jsasker007]

Haven't worked on that one specifically but usually seals aren't too bad. Piched seals don't seal very well.

 

[T-Max]

It is proving to be a bit more challenging than I hoped. The top suggestion to remove the old seals is using the old shaft to beat them out from the back. No luck with that today. I’ll try again some other time with a piece of rebar. That was the second most popular suggestion. After that it’s easy peasy…


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[jsasker007]

Suppose there isn't any room to get any type of small pick in there? Don't need to salvage the old seals but don't want to leave any gouges of any kind either.

 

[T-Max]

Well, I said seals, but there are bushings right behind the seals that need removed as well. Looking into a pilot bearing or blind hole bushing removal tool. My fear is they will be in there pretty good even though they have lived in oil for the last 50 years. We'll find out soon!

 

[T-Max]

Gonna see what I can get done with this.

 

[jsasker007]

Worst case scenario=what's a new cylinder cost?

 

[T-Max]

Worst case scenario=what's a new cylinder cost?

Rear end. Probably be a new tractor at that point.


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[jsasker007]

Forget trying to get on the edge to get the bushings out, put two woodruff keys in the oring groove and then use the shaft to drive them out. Found this response on a repair forum for your project.

 

[jsasker007]

Guys on new ag talk talking about this repair.

 

[T-Max]

Forget trying to get on the edge to get the bushings out, put two woodruff keys in the oring groove and then use the shaft to drive them out. Found this response on a repair forum for your project.

That is brilliant! I do most of my browsing on my phone and sometimes those Ag Talk forums come across clunky. Should get on there on my laptop and dig. Thanks, J!


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[T-Max]

So, there was no groove on either the bushings or the seals. I am certain they were original to the tractor. I used this blind bushing puller from harbor freight and they came out “relatively” easily. The puller I posted earlier did t work as there wasn’t enough real estate around the hole for the puller to grip. I got it all put back together and I am anxious to see how I did.

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[T-Max]

New seals installed. Hopefully they last a loooooong time.

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[Cool Hand Luke]

Nice work T! These old tractors can be your best friend and worst enemy within minutes! Mine's down too. Pretty sure I fried the new starter as soon as I hooked it back up...

 

[T-Max]

Nice work T! These old tractors can be your best friend and worst enemy within minutes! Mine's down too. Pretty sure I fried the new starter as soon as I hooked it back up...

Ain’t that the truth. They are relatively easy to work on mechanically speaking. My biggest problem has been that everything is original and therefore seized or otherwise being stubborn.


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[Turkey Creek]

Nice work. I enjoy knowing how to do a lot of things, but being a mechanic has never appealed to me.