Honey Bees
- Thread starter Peeps
- Start date
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
What size super?
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
I noticed tonight while mowing that there wasnt the huge amount of bees in the air that there usually is in front of the hive. A little cooler day but not enough to reduce the flight that much. Took a look probably 200 dead bees on the ground in front of the hive. A few still twitching and spinning. "Piss" ants already in full feast mode so I am guessing it happened yesterday if not the day before. I assume poisoned. Bees at the entrance acting normally. I lifted the top cover and lots of bees still in the hive. This was a very strong hive.
What is the proper protocol on a hive that you know has been subjected to some poisoning? It is the only hive at this location.
What is the proper protocol on a hive that you know has been subjected to some poisoning? It is the only hive at this location.
Could be some robbing going on by another hive. Bees fight and kill each other. I have happen what you describe quite a bit and there is no ag within three miles of me - so I dont think it is pesticide. If you still have good bee numbers in your hive, I wouldnt get too concerned unless it is ongoing.
mikmaze
5 year old buck +
can a hive survive in a box all on its own? I'd like to add the pollination + to my plots/ trees, but can not risk tending the hive due to me not wanting to rely on an epi pen/ trip to the hospital should I get stung....... I have a local keeper near me that I could get boxes from, maybe even buy a started colony, but way too far for him to come tend. Best scenario would be have a local keeper come tend, but downside is not wanting another person on the property.
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
Sure feral honey bees survive just fine on their own in the wild. If you arent looking to harvest honey or sell bees then you should be fine. I know a large commercial keeper that has so many hives he generally only checks on his hives once or twice a year.
A hive could survive on its own - but most of today’s bees are breed to be gentle, we have widespread varroa mites, ccd is common, and the bees just arent as tough as they used to be.
If I was wanting to get a hive to survive on its own, I would purchase from a beekeeper who had a several year history of chemical/treatment free hives.
If I was wanting to get a hive to survive on its own, I would purchase from a beekeeper who had a several year history of chemical/treatment free hives.
I have more trouble with hive beatles than anything else. Hives left in direct sunlight and clean all around have a little less trouble. A full hive of bees helps, also. An oil tray in the bottom of the hive with cooking oil in it will pretty well keep the hive beetles at bay. I used to buy queens when something happened to one of my queens. I quit doing that. I now move brood from other hives, giving them a chance to make their own. I want my own bloodline of queens from hives that have had no chemicals in them. If they cant make it doing that, I let them go. I have several hives that are six or seven years old. I have lost some hives - maybe 10% each year.
H20fwler
5 year old buck +
Our two hives at the big woods have exceeded expectations so far, of the two hives at little woods one is doing OK but the other seems to be fizzling out. The whole experience this year has been very positive and I've learned a lot. Next year the plan is to ad a few more at the big woods and try and restart the other hive at the little.
ksgobbler
5 year old buck +
Yep direct sun with a little afternoon shade and a strong hive really helps. Another trick is to go to dollar general and get unscented generic Swiffer pads. I cut them into halves or quarters. Left up the brood box and place them in the back corners then set it back down. Do it all the way up this way. The bees will fluff it up trying to get it out. The hive beetles have barbs and get stuck on it and can't get away. I tried beetle traps with limited success.
I have tried the beetle traps and the swifter pad type things with limited success. The bottom board oil trays are the only thing I have used that really keep the hive almost beetle free. They are kind of a mess to deal with. Much prefer the trays that slide in through the front hive opening as opposed to those that slide in an opening from the rear.
I think a lot of it depends on where you are. Our bees - and hive beetles - start becoming very active end of February and become mostly inactive the first of December. I would guess our long season of activity allows the beetles a longer time to build up and become more of a problem than areas where they are only active from April to October. The frame beetle traps may well suit someone in a shorter season and those with a longer season might well need more firepower.
H20fwler
5 year old buck +
My bee mentor and I looked at the hives yesterday. The ones at big woods are doing great and filling right up, one at little woods had super added and the weaker one filled feeder and it is doing much better. The bees at the little woods were not happy it was hot with no wind and they did not like the dog coming along...she barked and they blamed her for all the disturbance. Good thing is she is not allergic to bees and she knew enough to loose them in the standing corn, she wont be with us next time.
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
Added a 3rd shallow honey super to my strongest hive this morning. I was pleasantly surprised that they had filled the 2nd already.
Turkey Creek
5 year old buck +
Well see if they make it through the winter and then maybe you can steal them back.
