Habitat work

[S.T.Fanatic]

I live in south east mn. If I was able to get out to the woods to do some hinging and cutting and treating trees with herbicide this weekend or in the near future would it be to late given the temps we've been having?

 

[Tap]

Nope.

W. Pa.

 

[4wanderingeyes]

I hinge whenever I have the want too. I even do it in July. Some of the soft woods actually hinge better when they are green, and soft, rather then frozen and brittle. Maples for example hinge better for me after they green up, and the deer dont seem to mind the fresh green leaves at their height.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

Nope.

W. Pa.

Does this go for cut stump treatment with herbicide as well?

Thanks

 

[Tap]

Does this go for cut stump treatment with herbicide as well?

Thanks

There's probably other guys that can answer that better than me. I'm still trying to learn more about stump treating since I've only been actually treating cuts for a couple years. Grape vines are one of the invasives I've battled for several years now. I used to just cut them and not treat...BIG MISTAKE! One 2 " diameter grape vine will turn into a dozen little vines if the cut isn't treated and it becomes very difficult to control it in the future.
But in late winter/early spring, sap runs out of the grapevine cuts like a trickling faucet. I'm blown away at how much sap comes out of a grapevine in the spring. I also wonder what is contained in that sap that runs onto the ground after the cut. Are there beneficial nutrients that are scavenged from deep in the ground? Or are there allopathic chemicals that inhibit growth of desirable plants? And I'm not even sure how the herbicide could get to the roots because of the sap flow. Seems like the vine would flush the chemical out. But apparently, some herbicide does reach the roots because I've been getting a decent kill, but not 100%.
Oriental bittersweet is another P.I.T.A. vine that I recently realized I need to fight. I now treat every single cut of OB and I still get some newly emerging, adjacent vines. I don't know if it's a new plant, or a sucker from the other one that I cut and treated.
IMO, vining plants are among the hardest to control because their root structure is huge and complex. If you cut a vine, TREAT THAT CUT OR DON'T CUT IT UNTIL YOU ARE PREPARED TO TREAT IT. Only cutting without treating just turns one problem into dozens of suckering problems.
I've also started treating black walnut and black locust with the same results...good, but not 100%.
95% of my cutting of invasives is done during March and April. I can't say if that's the best time or not. Maybe fall is better?? I don't know. But I have a hard time disturbing my property just before or during bow season.

 

[Frosted brassica]

I have read that once leafed out the plant is pulling some nutrients from the leaves down to the roots and so mid to late summer is better for hack and squirt/ cut stump treatments. That may have just been for the alanthiss I was treating. Google the plant name and the word control for relevant studies on best herbicide and method. Best of luck

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I think I'll just put it off. I'm guessing there is pretty good sap flow by now with the way the weather has been. I have an elm or two to cut down around food plots that I think I will still do but It may be to much risk with the invasive stuff i'd like to take out. Far to much work involved that I'm not willing to waste on trees that wont die anyway.

 

[H20fwler]

I cut some small trees I didn't want growing the other day, it was in the teens and the stumps started pushing sap within minutes.