GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

[356]

This thread makes me not want to get a no-till drill even though they were on my long-term shopping list! I only want one if it would save me time and some seed cost, but it sure sounds like it takes a lot of tinkering to get them to work correctly.

On a somewhat related note, are the 3 point no-till corn and bean planters less fussy or are these kinds of continuous adjustments needed to get them working as well?

I am in my third year of NT. The first was with a rented unit from the state. The second was with my own drill, and had a real learning curve, but good results. This year was relatively easy and went off without a hitch. All of the popular brands of no-till/min-till (Genesis/PH Outdoors, Great Plains, Tar River, Firminator) have brand specific forums/facebook pages that offer lots of insights. Remember that most posts are to solve problems or overcome some limitation or issue, and not comment on successes or uneventful outings.

 

[buckdeer1]

Hard pan is created from disking or plowing at same depth every year,very rarely will a a food plot tractor and small drill cause an issue unless driving when too wet.We NT ag fields and you don't have to change anything.Sometimes on a field that is getting tough you can plant a cover crop with radishes and turnips then s breaks up soil

 

[Foggy47]

I am in my third year of NT. The first was with a rented unit from the state. The second was with my own drill, and had a real learning curve, but good results. This year was relatively easy and went off without a hitch. All of the popular brands of no-till/min-till (Genesis/PH Outdoors, Great Plains, Tar River, Firminator) have brand specific forums/facebook pages that offer lots of insights. Remember that most posts are to solve problems or overcome some limitation or issue, and not comment on successes or uneventful outings.

100% agree. I think if you survey'd the drill owners.....almost none would go back to doing tillage and broadcast or planter as the preferred method of getting it done. No way for me......tho "no till" has opened my eyes to other methods too......like throw and mow. The "light-weight" min-till (conventional) drills are somewhat of a new method to get 'er done.

From my experience now......I'd buy another drill tomorrow.....and I'd buy a GP/LP 3P600 with small seed box and agitators.....and I'd add foam markers and a rear walk board/step too. For my soil it's about perfect. Many of us had zero experience with no till planting......It's been fun talking about these drills and learning how to operate them.

 

[TreeDaddy]

I need a primer on press wheel settings

The GP 3pt 606NT manual is clear that forward =shallow and back =deep

Manual states increments are 1/8 in. There are 10 increments , so does this mean the depth range is 0 to 1.4 in?

How do the experienced operators address the press wheel issue?

thanks

bill

 

[Wind Gypsy]

I need a primer on press wheel settings

The GP 3pt 606NT manual is clear that forward =shallow and back =deep

Manual states increments are 1/8 in. There are 10 increments , so does this mean the depth range is 0 to 1.4 in?

How do the experienced operators address the press wheel issue?

thanks

bill

That section of the manual contradicts itself. 0-3.5” but only 1/8” per adjustment doesn’t compute. I think drive wheel setting impacts potential depth as well.

 

[Foggy47]

I need a primer on press wheel settings

The GP 3pt 606NT manual is clear that forward =shallow and back =deep

Manual states increments are 1/8 in. There are 10 increments , so does this mean the depth range is 0 to 1.4 in?

How do the experienced operators address the press wheel issue?

thanks

bill

Drills are a funny machine to set up.....and in some ways takes a little "art" or experience to find what you want. Can be a bit of a guessing game at first.

I beleive there are allot of variables on those press wheel settings. The soil type, texture, moisture, crop residue, travel speed, how the drill is leveled, and more will affect the settings. That drive wheel on front will determine a primary depth range.....and the press wheels will allow you to tweak the depth a bit based on the variables stated. I needed to adjust my drive wheel three times to get my drill into the range I want / need for my land (more shallow).

Now I believe I can plant from about 1.5" to about 1/8" if the ground is flat enough. This works just fine for what I try to grow......mostly grains, clover, brassica. My small seed box contents are dropped behind the seed trench and the press wheels just push those seeds into contact with the soil (therefore the 1/8" depth said here).

I find that my hydraulic top link provides the tweaking I need when setting the depth.......maybe better than fooling with the press wheel settings (?). Truthfully, I have not messed with the press wheel setting very much......and use my top link to make small changes.

 

[Brian662]

Wanted to share these photos of my plot "failure" with my 3p600. We've had one sprinkle for rain since planting about 6 weeks ago. The failure is attributed to the lack of rain but it is interesting to see that where the rye thatch is, enough soil moisture existed for germination and a little growth. Absolutely depressing how little rain we've had this fall. Still have 8 bags of rye I bought back in August I can't even spread to "rescue" my plots. Sad about the shape the plots and soil will be in coming out of winter.

 

[swat1018]

Yea, it's dry across much of the midwest. My rye was planted last week of August in NEMO because I was going to MT hunting. My plots are poor, but not that bad. I can see rows of rye/wheat, but they are grazing it hard and it isn't growing much. I used a NT version.

 

[Foggy47]

I started a new thread on the New Great Plains Stealth Line of drills, now with 3', 4', 5' widths for small tractors. BUT they also have (finally) got some good videos out on their products and how they work. Go to the site.....but here is one (below) which does a good job of explaining the seed drop on these drills. I think there is much more.....just have not had time to look at it all. (I'm just the messenger....lol).

 

[deepsleep]

Well, I finally decided on the 3p600 and put one on order. I also ordered a flail mower. I'm looking forward to sharing experiences with the group and appreciate all of the great info shared thus far.

 

[Foggy47]

Well, I finally decided on the 3p600 and put one on order. I also ordered a flail mower. I'm looking forward to sharing experiences with the group and appreciate all of the great info shared thus far.

Good for you. Which flail did you buy?

 

[deepsleep]

Good for you. Which flail did you buy?

The same as you (I think). Woodmaxx 78” hydro. They’re back in stock.

 

[Foggy47]

The same as you (I think). Woodmaxx 78” hydro. They’re back in stock.

I think you will be happy with the products you bought. Woodmaxx seems like pretty good value to me. Wonder if duties might change those prices for things.

 

[deepsleep]

I think you will be happy with the products you bought. Woodmaxx seems like pretty good value to me. Wonder if duties might change those prices for things.

That, combined with the fact they're both available immediately, pushed me to buy yesterday. The only thing I have left to acquire is a hydraulic top link. Any recs?

 

[Foggy47]

That, combined with the fact they're both available immediately, pushed me to buy yesterday. The only thing I have left to acquire is a hydraulic top link. Any recs?

I'm pretty sure I bought mine at agri-supply. But, I think you can also get a decent one at Amazon these days. I got relatively short hoses for mine.....and I think I bought them from Mills Fleet. Not sure how I got along without a hydraulic top link. Makes life easy.

The first one I bought was too short and I sent it back (not sure where I bought that). They typically offer two lengths.....and if you have a quick hitch or Pat's EZ Links (what I have) then you for sure need the longer one. In fact I cannot see where I would ever need the shorter length.

 

[Foggy47]

Tonight....somehow I stumbled into a video on setting your three point lift arms into "float" position when operating certain implements such as a flail mower for a more even cut. I'm in AZ, so I cannot see my tractor for a week or so. But I got thinking about both my flail mower and my grain drill......and the need to "float" these implements for more precision depth control when drilling seeds (or to not scalp in the case of the flail mower).

So, we have discussed putting the top link in float mode.....and that may provide some answers, but we have not discussed making a placing the tractor's lower lift links into the FLOAT position as found on some lower links. This feature is not on all tractors....and frankly I cannot remember if I have it on my L3560 Kubota. I know I had it on my JD 3360 tractor....and needed to go to the ridgid mode when I operated my stump grinder to prevent it from jumping about in float mode. It's a matter of pulling a pin....and then rotating the linkage 90 degrees and re-installing the pin. This creates a degree of flex (or float) in the two drag links. To me this may really benefit these drills and the depth control.

I had not previously considered using the float position when operating my drill.....which may provide a much better side to side operation....and also follow the contours better when drilling seeds.

Not sure I am clear on stating this feature.....and not even sure I have the two position mechanical floating lower links on my tractor. Anyone confirm? Anyone make this change to your lift links when drilling seeds? I feel this may be very helpful when operating a drill. Wish I had a pic....but have not been able to locate one.

 

[omicron1792]

You just Taught me something @Foggy47. Never knew that existed but i am going to check it out on my tractor next time I’m at farm. Just watched a bunch of videos on it.

 

[Foggy47]

You just Taught me something @Foggy47. Never knew that existed but i am going to check it out on my tractor next time I’m at farm. Just watched a bunch of videos on it.

LOL. I think you are the teacher in this crowd. In truth, we all learn from one another. Just was re-reading another thread on how we all stumbled our way into these drills we have. We had allot of fun discovering how these minimum till drills could work for our food plotting needs. I've enjoyed the trip. .....if I were a younger guy......I might make and sell a rear step conversion kit for these drills.....grin.

 

[TreeDaddy]

I guess I will have to watch the videos

The top link float position is straight forward and has been discussed in other threads


I never knew of the lower link float position

bill

 

[Foggy47]

I again searched for a pic to show the set up to get float on your lower links....and could not find a good illustration. BUT, I did find a video (below) that does a decent job of showing the pin set up to get float. I think it is quite common on John Deere tractors.....but not on all brands. I simply do not remember on my Kubota. Check this video starting at the 5 minute mark through about 7 mins. I think this would be quite valuable with these drills.....and likely with a flail mower. It's easy to overlook this setting.